Ceramic Tile Advice Forums - John Bridge Ceramic Tile

Welcome to John Bridge / Tile Your World, the friendliest DIY Forum on the Internet

Advertiser Directory
JohnBridge.com Home
Buy John Bridge's Books

Go Back   Ceramic Tile Advice Forums - John Bridge Ceramic Tile > Tile & Stone Forums > Tile Forum/Advice Board


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Unread 01-15-2020, 10:44 PM   #1
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2020
Posts: 2
seeking advice on taking out dips and humps on a Hardiebacker floor before tile

good evening!i am tiling my kitchen floor about 100 sqft using 18x18 travertine tiles. i have glued and screwed 1/4 inch hardie board and taped all of the seemes to my floor ( 15 space for the joists ,1/2 inch plywood decking with 3/4 plywood) I have dips that are about 1/8 inch deep the largest of which is 3/16.
i have a hump that causes to have a 1/4 inch drop about a foot out from there. please help with any advice on the best way forward.
ps.sorry for the poor writing

Last edited by whistler; 01-15-2020 at 11:24 PM.
whistler is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Unread 01-16-2020, 06:52 AM   #2
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2019
Posts: 21
I'm not the most seasoned person but I'll throw in my opinion based off of what I've had to do. I won't use hardi anymore since it's not a real 1/2" and is more expensive. It also seems to be a lot thirstier when tiling. First attack the humps. I used 60 grit on a 5" DA but I do have a industrial compressor. If you have a random orbital that will work too. Go at it with 40 or 60 grit and don't worry about going too far. Next get yourself a 3-4ft straight edge and lay down mortar and fill in all the low spots. Let it cure.

I go over cured mortar with a hard brush to knock off all the crap then clean the mortar before going further. Lay down your thinset with a 1/4 trowel and start laying your tile. Once you get your second tile down bust out a good 4ft level and this is where you'll get your accurate level from. Keep going and level it all out.

If I missed something or am incorrect a senior member will correct me but it's worked for me.

Thanks for helping me! If you need any computer advice/help or digital security help just ask.
brandonw is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 01-16-2020, 07:36 AM   #3
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Massachusetts
Posts: 943
When you say “glued” down the hardibacker, did you actually use glue? It should have been fully bedded in a notched coat of thinset.
Lou_MA is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 01-16-2020, 08:13 AM   #4
Registered User
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Milwaukee WI area
Posts: 1,073
those dip[s should be addressed before the hardibacker was attached. Also, you do not glue it, you notch mortar onto the floor. If you used beads of glue, I would remove it and start over. You need 100% coverage otherwise you are introducing deflection points.
speed51133 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 01-16-2020, 08:22 AM   #5
Moderator -- Mud Man
Davy's Avatar
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Princeton,Tx.- Dallas area
Posts: 32,765
Yep, what Mike said. Your floor doesn't necessarily need to be level but you do want to get it as flat as you can. I have used thinset for this although they do make fillers and levelers made just for this application. Use a straight edge to get the excess filler pulled back and let it set. A rub stone or rub brick is handy to knock down any ridges or high spots you may have left. Check the floor again to see if more filling is necessary.


Last edited by Davy; 01-16-2020 at 08:27 AM.
Davy is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 01-16-2020, 11:28 AM   #6
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2020
Posts: 2
thank you for the advice .by glued and screwed i meant that i had used the thinset and backer screws.
whistler is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 01-16-2020, 11:44 PM   #7
Tool Guy - Kg
Moderator -- Wisconsin Kitchen & Bath Remodeler
Tool Guy - Kg's Avatar
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Oak Creek, WI
Posts: 21,963
While it’s physically possible to grind away high spots of the Hardibacker and might not harm the integrity of the installation, it’s not approved by the manufacturer and would put tons of yucky silica dust in the air for you to breathe. I would concentrate on filling the low spots with cementitious patching material or a self-leveling cement (which has its own prep, if that’s what you decide) that is meant for such.

Tonto Goldstein... but my friends call me Bubba

Help an awesome summer camp!
Tool Guy - Kg is offline   Reply With Quote

Stonetooling.com   Tile-Assn.com   National Gypsum Permabase

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Seeking Advice for recent tile job AuroraCO Tile Forum/Advice Board 6 08-28-2018 05:41 PM
Would you tile this? Seeking advice. PaulnBama Tile Forum/Advice Board 18 08-11-2008 01:29 PM
dips in concrete floor Martin Man Tile Forum/Advice Board 2 02-24-2006 04:35 PM
Humps in concrete floor JR Professionals' Hangout 8 11-14-2005 08:42 PM
Bathroom Demo Not Yet Started - Seeking Sub-Floor Advice First! bradesp Tile Forum/Advice Board 4 01-23-2005 02:17 PM

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 12:13 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2020, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright 2018 John Bridge & Associates, LLC