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Unread 01-02-2020, 09:35 PM   #16
cx
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I'm getting confuseder and confuseder here.

The blue material is the former outside of an exterior wall, right? Of an unknown material? Painted blue? And there is framing behind the blue siding? And the blue siding has many and varied scraps of OSB glued(?) to it for some reason?

And now that I see your second photo I see that the shower receptor is below this piece of Wonderboard, and apparently the black paper (only non-confusing part. That's roofing felt.) extends down far enough to cover the waterproofing liner for the shower receptor. That sound correct? If so, that would normally be an acceptable method of water containment for a traditionally built shower. But the wallboard does not appear to extend down into the top mud bed in the shower. Why is that?

What, pray tell is the purpose of the OSB scraps and to what is the CBU fastened and how is it fastened?

Can we get a better photo of the shower receptor?

The niche is cut into the wall through the blue siding into the old wall?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Marion
He said the scratch coat was the same mortar used for the shower pan.
If that's the case, one of those things is not done correctly.

[Edit] How is that linear drain expected to be connected with a traditional shower pan liner? I don't see any installtion information at all on the link you posted.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 01-02-2020, 11:43 PM   #17
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Yes, the blue material is the former outside of an exterior wall. Not sure how the material is called, and yes, it was painted blue. Yes, there should be framing behind the blue siding. Contractor opened blue siding to put the niche in. I think he used the OSB strips to mount the Wonderboard, creating space for the plumbing, because he didn't want to tear off the siding (blown insulation). The shower head had to be changed to the opposite side due to arrangement of bathroom and toilet.
I am not sure how far down the roofing felt goes. The Wonderboard does not go all the way down to the mud pan, there is about 1/2 to 1 inch gap.
Just found a drawing!
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Unread 01-02-2020, 11:45 PM   #18
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And I managed to take the photos in a way that the drawings upload right side up!
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Unread 01-03-2020, 11:07 AM   #19
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I can't read the fine print on the page with Figure 2, but it appears that the receptor may be appropriately constructed if the pre-slope is a minimum of 1/4" per foot to drain from the farthest corner of the shower and if the 8" of liner turned up reaches at least 3" above the curb top and the wall framing was relieved to accommodate the proper folds in the liner corners and if appropriate dam corners were properly bonded to the curb/jamb corners, etc, etc.

I'm curious how the bottom of the wallboards were fastened if the wallboards were not run down below the top of the final mud bed. Actually still curious to know how the wallboards were fastened to the wall framing. Rather odd setup there.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 01-03-2020, 02:16 PM   #20
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Fine print on Figure 2:
"Best practice for first row of wall tile is to snap out reference line once tile layout determined and start up the wall from second row first and up. Then set floor tiles. Let floor tiles set up 24 hours and run a bead of 100% silicone at floor tile edge and cement board. Then run first row of wall tiles by gently pushing them into the silicone as you adhere them to the wall. Wipe off excess as you go for easier clean up.

Back wall section remains the same even after new drain is installed. Once existing removed and second mortar bed installed again it will not change orientation, Through only went to depth of wall, wall was not modified for it nor was cement board location."
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Unread 01-03-2020, 02:23 PM   #21
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Finally contractor answered my question of how he water-proved the walls with "Kerdi waterproof membrane".
BUT Kerdi is orange, and I have not seen any orange, nor can I see any orange now, scratching a bit of his "scratch coat" off. Underneath is the bare Wonderboard, an on the seams and corners I can see some yellow tape, maybe similar to Kerdi. But if the Wonderboard itself is not waterproof, waterproof seams wont do any good, right? What about the roof felt, is that waterproof? And if it is, is it okay to have it installed BEHIND the Wonderboard?

By the way, he never showed me his sketches before, just found the paper on the bathroom floor behind a pile of stuff.
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Unread 01-03-2020, 11:22 PM   #22
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If you can't locate any orange on those walls, I fear you're not being told the whole truth. Just why that is, I don't know, because the roofing felt behind the CBU, if it was properly installed and lapped over the shower pan liner, is an acceptable method of water containment in a shower. It will not be acceptable in the area of that niche the way we know the niche was installed, though. I would ask him to show you some evidence of the "Kerdi waterproof membrane" on your shower walls.

The roofing felt is an adequate moisture barrier and is actually a good material for use in that particular application, but it must remain seamless or be properly overlapped. In the area of the niche, the only way he could have cut the niche into that blue wall would negate his being able to adequately waterproof that area using the roofing felt behind the backer board, though.

What the "yellow tape" in the corners of the wallboard might be I have no idea. And no, the Wonderboard is one of the least "waterproof" of all the CBUs I've tested. Water will pass through it almost immediately. It's fine for its intended application, but it must be combined with some sort of water containment membrane in a shower application.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 01-04-2020, 07:09 PM   #23
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Thank you CX! He finally texted me back:
"The paper on the back is designed to absorb any liquid water and still allow air to exit and wall cavities have enough room to breath to dry paper out if it does absorb any water. Used this paper because he really does not have any thermal break outside of exterior wall with insulation because the siding is his shear panel as well. None of the backer boards is water proof."

So the wall on the back of the shower used to be an outside wall with blue siding. The wall on the left is an exterior wall, the one on the right an interior wall. I don't understand what a shear panel is, and who "he" is, but I feel a bit better after what you said about the roofing felt.

I will find out if he overlapped it (although God knows if he is telling the truth)... and do you have a suggestion for the niche?
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Unread 01-04-2020, 07:11 PM   #24
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Since no tile is installed yet, could I sand the walls and apply Redguard or something similar?
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Unread 01-04-2020, 09:36 PM   #25
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Again, if the roofing felt is properly installed behind all the walls, you would not need a waterproofing membrane on the inside of the shower. The exception to that in your case is the niche. You might wanna inquire as to his plan to waterproof that area, because I can assure you he did not do it with the roofing felt.
Quote:
Originally Posted by your contractor?
Used this paper because he really does not have any thermal break outside of exterior wall with insulation...
'Fraid I have no idea what that means. And I'd wanna know who "he" is, too, on accounta I thought you were asking this guy how he did the installation.

And what happened to the "Kerdi waterproofing membrane" he told you previously that he used? Or was that not him, but rather the same "he" he's referring to in your quote? I'm a bit confused here.

The only thing I think you can do at the niche at this stage would be to paint your RedGard on the wall half a foot or so on all sides of the niche except for the top and that would need to be coated all the way to a point well above the shower head.
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Unread 01-05-2020, 08:05 AM   #26
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I still don't understand where this scratch coat is. The linear drain is designed to slip into the clamping ring part of the drain assembly
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Unread 01-05-2020, 08:22 AM   #27
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CX: I copied the contractor's text message in quotes (" ") into my post here.

I don't mind doing Redguard on the entire wall surface, especially since I can't prove he did the roofing felt correctly. Just want to make sure I am not making things worse.

Quote:
I still don't understand where this scratch coat is.
What the contractor calls "scratch coat" is a thin coat of mortar over the Wonderboards on the walls, applied with a notched trowel. He told me it would make the tiles stick better.
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Unread 01-07-2020, 10:50 AM   #28
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I got a bucket of Redgard for the walls. But before I do anything, I would like to have a plan to deal with the uneven surfaces on walls and (single sloped) pan.
On the left wall contractor made a vertical hump, after I requested he fix the angle between wall and curb on the side where the glass blocks will be attached to the wall. (As far as I know, glass blocks are square) I am thinking of sanding it back down to the same plane as the rest of the wall and rather fix the curb to be square. I hope that can be done with cement on top of the pan liner already in place.
As for the pan, it is sloped, but very bumpy. Should I try to fix it with a layer of portland cement, or use a different tile adhesive (I read about medium-set adhesive) to get my tiles in a nice straight plane?
Please someone help me with advice.
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Unread 01-07-2020, 06:42 PM   #29
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Marion,

If you used a (pourable, very liquid) Self Leveling Compound, are there any height concerns at the doorway?

We find it easy to get a pool table flat surface using SLC but it bumps up the floor height at least 1/4 at the highest spot unless you use Ardex LBB which can be feathered. The latter takes more of a skilled hand.

If the mud shower pan isn't what you'd like to see, its generally a much better idea to re-do it.
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Unread 01-07-2020, 06:58 PM   #30
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Maybe I missed something. Paul, are you talking about pouring SLC on the shower floor?
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