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Unread 12-03-2019, 08:26 AM   #61
ss3964spd
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Having the wall tile land on top of the floor tile makes the most sense to me, SusanMary, and given that you're using pebbles, I think that would be easiest, too.
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Unread 12-17-2019, 02:45 PM   #62
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Okay, I've started tiling - FINALLY!

I waited to finish framing the niche so it was placed above/below a full course of tiles. That's about done, but I didn't save enough Redgard for the whole niche. HD only had 5 gallon buckets, so I went to Lowe's but they only carry aqua defense. Can I apply AD over the Redgard?

Thanks!

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Unread 12-17-2019, 02:48 PM   #63
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probably, but you are taking somewhat of a risk. find some redgard at another place, and make sure you cover the screws and everything.
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Unread 12-17-2019, 03:08 PM   #64
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And I'd really recommend against using that metal corner bead around your niche opening. What you want there is alkali resistant mesh tape and thinset mortar before you apply your RedGard and tile. You'll find that metal bead seriously interferes with your tiling that corner.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 12-18-2019, 10:54 PM   #65
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Thanks CX,

Unfortunately that ship has sailed, but I'll remember for my next tiling project!

Drove to another HD and got Redgard and the niche will be ready to go after a second coat tomorrow.

Next question: I've used a ledger board at the height of the tub deck. How in the heck do you tile below the ledger board? Seems like the rows will all slide downwards as I'm going.... I realize most projects would have just the one row below the ledger board, but I will have at least 5.
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Unread 12-18-2019, 11:47 PM   #66
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You can use mortar with non-sag properties to keep tile from sagging. Or after you remove the ledger board and want to tile downward, you can tape each new tile to the set tile above it.

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Unread 12-21-2019, 04:40 PM   #67
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Niche issues:

I have two niches, both have the same issue. The row of subway above the niche lands just 1/4" above the top edge of the niche. I have bull nose, but I'll have a 1/2" course of tile which I think will look awful. I have purchased and mitre-cut some rondec trim, but in order to set it low enough to cover the tile on the "ceiling" of the niche I'll be left with a larger than 1/16" grout line (more like 1/8th).

I have thought about "framing the niche with a 1" box of subway, but then I'll have two thin rows again. I do have some larger pieces (6x6 but they lack a bull nose. I could use them and the rondec, but I'll have an odd corner where the regular size meets the larger cut tile.

Anyway, here's a pic of the niche and where the tiles line up. Any suggestions on how to make this look as good as possible?
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Unread 12-21-2019, 05:21 PM   #68
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It doesn't fix your problem but it looks like both pieces are bullnose. I'd put the row of BN in the niche and regular wall tiles on the wall.

We went thru this recently on another thread and we all advised to remove the top piece of CBU and go back with a thinner piece. I don't know what thickness you used or if a thinner piece will be enough to help your situation.

If this were my job, I'd have to remove whatever was necessary to make it right. On the other thread, the homeowner decided to add another layer of CBU to the ceiling part of the niche to make the sliver bigger. It worked but made the niche smaller than originally planned.
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Unread 12-21-2019, 09:18 PM   #69
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Thanks Davy,

Ugh. I suppose I could rip out the 1/2" cbu and replace with 1/4" cbu and that would give me 1/4" more.

The carpenter I had working with me put in that stupid corner bead which is going to make it all that much harder to rip it out....

I can't argue that it's the right way to handle it. Just not sure I have the wherewithal to pull it off.
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Unread 12-21-2019, 10:34 PM   #70
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What about using quarter rounds? I can get this tile from HD and it seems like it would work if I used it on the top and sides. Mine would actually look cleaner than this because I could avoid the top sliver row here.
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Unread 12-22-2019, 01:15 AM   #71
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The Q-rounds would probably work but I think the metal bead would have to be removed on the top and sides. The Q-rounds don't work on a square corner, the corner needs to be rounded or slightly angled on a 45.

As an installer, we wouldn't be able to leave the sliver on top like that so we find the wherewithal to do it. Of course, like you, we would learn from this and not let it happen again.
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Unread 12-28-2019, 09:29 AM   #72
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Back to work today after the holiday. Hard to tile with my 87 year old mother here! I have solved the niche issue by using the metal trim pieces and bullnose edges inside the niche.

As for tiling the niche, I am going to put the accent mosaic (which contains glass and stone tiles on mesh) on the back wall. I was toying with the idea of running it vertically, but I think that'll just make it more complicated so going with the horizontal.

Using Laticrete Rapid set for the niche mosaic as well as the rows of tile under the ledger boards. Based on reading other threads I'm guessing the order should be:

1. back wall of niche using rapid set - let that set up first
2. sides of niche using regular laticrete - leaving an 1/8" gap between the back edge of the tile and the mosaic which will get filled with caulk.
3. metal trim and immediately set wall tiles while thinset is still pliable

I've seen videos where they place the metal trim behind wall tiles in wet thinset and others where they set the metal trim first and then set the tiles on top. Does anyone have an opinion on which method is better?
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Unread 12-28-2019, 02:50 PM   #73
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So, my first attempt at the niche was a DISASTER! Spent 2 hours getting the sheets cut and individual pieces as needed. Mixed up the thinset, spread it on the back of the niche, troweled it with a 1/4" trowel and then put up the lower sheet first. It sagged so I pulled it up and that's when the trouble started. Thinset filled all the cracks. Sponged it off, but it just became a mess. Decided to pull that sheet off and try with the top sheet. Same thing happened.

I've pulled it all down, washed it up and am starting over.

I am thinking it might help to back butter the sheets with a thin layer of thinset and let them dry completely so that it acts as two large tiles. I'm also thinking that I should mix the thinset on the dryer side.

I read another post that says to hold it up with a nail, but obviously that won't work - however I was thinking I could cut a 1x2 the height of the niche and staple some horseshoe spacers to them at the right height and stick them in while the sheet sets....

What am I missing?
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Unread 01-07-2020, 07:38 AM   #74
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Highly recommend this glass tile thinset from CBP. I found that I had to place tiles perfectly on the first try, but held like a charm.

Next hurdle: I am about to lay down the bottom row of tiles in the shower. I am left with room for the pebbles and have less than 1/2" gap between the top of the pebble and the bottom of the tile without thinset.

Can someone recommend the best way to put it all together? I will be finishing the tiles up today and hope to lay down the pebbles tomorrow. How thick can the thinset be on the floor? Should I tuck the pebbles underneath the tiles? I'm assuming I grout out all the way around the pebbles but not above them, and then fill the gap between the pebbles and the tile with caulk.

My other question is should I use a modified or unmodified thinset for attaching a quartz threshold to the mud curb? I don't think I have any unmodified thinset left at this point, but I could get some if that's the best way to go.

Thanks!
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Unread 01-07-2020, 09:30 AM   #75
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You'll want to tuck the pebbles under the tile, but don't butt them against the wall. The thickness of the thinset mortar is somewhat dependent on how thick the pebbles are; too much mortar will end up squeezing and oozing out between the pebbles, causing a mess. Definitely grout the pebbles as far under the tiles as possible, but without filling the gap between the pebbles and wall. I would shoot for a gap between the tile and pebbles of between 1/16" and 1/8", which will then be caulked with a 100% silicone caulk in your choice of color.

The modified mortar will be just fine to set your quartz.
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