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Unread 08-07-2019, 09:28 AM   #1
MobileMarch567
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Shower Drain on concrete basement too high?

Hello! I'm a total newbie, doing a complete remodel of my basement bathroom (floor, sink, toilet & shower). The existing shower pipe was dryfit but not cemented in (yeah, i know!) below the single piece shower base.

I removed the old piping (leaving the p-trap), then properly cemented in a new pipe, sticking up about 2' off the slab floor.

...then I realized the drain might be too high!! To make matters worse, there is a joint connection flush with the cement. Here are some pics:
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Unread 08-07-2019, 10:10 AM   #2
speed51133
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that goofy elbow at the top will make installing a drain very difficult. If you make your own shower pan you can make it thicker to give you room.

see the pic, you need some room for a straight pipe to connect. At least a good 4inches I would say

It is also hard to tell what is going on with your framing. The shower area looks sunken down a few inches.
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Last edited by speed51133; 08-07-2019 at 10:27 AM.
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Unread 08-07-2019, 10:31 AM   #3
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check this out. it asks for the top of the drain straight pipe to be 2in below the subfloor. SO, make the shower pan thick enough out of drypack mortar to make up that difference I would say.

or

tear it open and re-do it normally. Why do you have that angled pipe in there? Where exactly is the P trap??
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Unread 08-07-2019, 12:34 PM   #4
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Thanks! The p-trap was already there, below the gravel. I put the angled pipe in because I wanted the drain to be exactly centered, which I later realized isn't so important because I'm building the pan anyway.

I found a low-profile Oatey shower drain that is 3.5" tall. So, measuring up from the actual 2" pipe, I used a laser level to indicate where it would be:

P.S. The framing is strange! its flush with the floor on the right side, and raised on the left/back walls.
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Unread 08-08-2019, 12:59 PM   #5
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https://www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin...d.php?t=127016

check this thread out, similar issue
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Unread 10-22-2019, 07:53 AM   #6
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Shower drain flush with concrete floor- help!

Thanks for your help!

I'm doing a tile shower base in my basement bathroom, and I poured self-leveler concrete around the shower drain to even the (concrete) floor out. Problem is that the self-leveler came right up to the edge of the shower drain, so there's no room to add the pre-slope concrete (which requires a minimum 1/2" thickness).

Is there anything I can do besides breaking out the self-leveler concrete?
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Unread 10-22-2019, 08:10 AM   #7
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yep piece of cake.. http://noblecompany.com/products/pro-slope/
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Unread 10-22-2019, 11:16 AM   #8
MobileMarch567
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pro-slope

Wow, looks great...once I've cut it to size, do I have to glue it to the concrete floor? Or is it just held in place by gravity?
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Unread 10-22-2019, 11:20 AM   #9
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the weight of the mortar bed (and gravity) holds it down.No need to bond the Pro Slope down.(You do still need the liner under under the mortar bed on-top of Pro Slope)
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Unread 11-14-2019, 10:54 AM   #10
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Shower Pan Leak Test FAILED-how to isolate problem?

I'm totally lost as to what to do...There's a leak that appears to be UNDER my prefab pre-slope(the one made by Noble), as there's no water whatsoever on the cardboard top of the preslope (it has a polystyrene backing under the cardboard).

The leak is on the right side of the shower, under the treated wood. Pics attached (I took down the liner After the leak test)

My concern is that the leak is coming from a poorly-bonded PVC pipe under the concrete somewhere, but I hope its coming from somewhere above the PVC, like where the pan liner meets the bottom piece of the drain.

Is there anyway to isolate & diagnosis this?

Thanks for your help!
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Unread 11-14-2019, 12:18 PM   #11
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I see a wet towel on the ground a few feet away from the pan, but I fail to see where the water is coming from. What exactly is wet??

how could a drain within/under the concrete make water spring up? I don't think it would.

why dont you remove the liner and the pan. Those noble pans dont get bonded to the floor, should just be resting on it.
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Unread 11-14-2019, 12:34 PM   #12
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Sorry, I took the pics after cleaning up the water.

The water was under the treated board, right next to the towel. Also, I did remove the liner, and there was no water on the concrete underneath.
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Unread 11-14-2019, 01:30 PM   #13
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Bill, it'll help if you'll keep all your project questions on one thread so folks can see what you're working on and what's been previously asked and answered. A moderator can give it a more generic title any time you'd like to suggest one.

Couple questions first.

Did you apply a bead of silicone sealant to the bottom flange of your drain before clamping the waterproof membrane in the drain?

From what source did you fill the pan liner with water? Was it from the shower plumbing?
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Unread 11-14-2019, 01:56 PM   #14
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Thanks for your reply, CX. My apologies for creating the new thread, I went back and read through the rules you linked in your signature.

1) I did apply a silicone bead. I waited about 12 hours before clamping down the middle part of the drain, so I guess I'm a little worried it might not be sitting flush against the bottom part of the drain.

2) I took a homer bucket and just filled it with water, then dumped it into the pan. I did this 3 times, so I guess that's about 15 gallons of water.
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Unread 11-14-2019, 02:15 PM   #15
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1. Might be your problem right there, Bill. When installing that liner, you need to put the bead of silicone sealant on the bottom flange, then immediately install the liner and bolt on the clamping ring while the silicone is still wet.

You can likely still find a good video of the procedure on the Oatey website.

2. That is the way you wanna do that flood test. Best to fill all the way to very near the curb top for a thorough test. Garden hose from somewhere other than shower plumbing may make it easier.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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