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Unread 01-07-2020, 04:39 PM   #46
ss3964spd
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The size of a quarter...I'd be inclined to leave it as is.
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Unread 01-07-2020, 07:03 PM   #47
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If it causes the tile to stick out, slightly grind the back of the tile in that spot.
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Unread 01-08-2020, 05:07 PM   #48
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ok, thanks guys.

still trying to do the water test. used some tru blu rectorseal on the rubber plug and left a bit of water over night (just to the first shoulder of the plastic drain flange). It was good for ~6-8 hours last night, however it was slightly lower this morning, so I don't have definitive proof it was the seal of the rubber gasket (which I suspect) or the glued transition between pipe and drain flange. So I wiped away what i could, put a lot more tru blu on there, let it dry for ~2 hrs, then added the water. Will see if the seal is good...
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Unread 01-16-2020, 04:50 PM   #49
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24hr water test result...

...Passed! no change in level over 24 hours, used quarters stack, marked the sides and a speed square (#overkill). the rectorseal did the trick to make a water tight seal with the rubber bladder plug.

gonna let it dry out to see how well i did on the re-sloping...so far looks pretty good. will be dry placing tiles and cutting hopefully tomorrow!

thanks again for the help and support, will likely be asking more questions as it progresses.
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Unread 01-17-2020, 06:59 AM   #50
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A big win, Pancho, very satisfying to see no change, and also to watch all that water rush down the drain as anticipated!

Congrats
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Unread 01-23-2020, 03:39 PM   #51
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I've started laying out and cutting tile. Got a Rubi DT-180 7" Evolution saw with factory blade that I'm struggling getting clean cuts without chipping (porcelain). So far I have only cut tiles that will be on the edges/covered up. Any thoughts/techniques I should know to get less chips? (I've sharpened multiple times with the dressing stone...)

What margin should I keep on horizontal and vertical planes around the floor to wall transitions? I've read 1/8" and 1"4", which is kind of a big difference.

Trowel size: The flooring will be roughly 3" x 5" smushed hexagon (pic below). https://d2bnvhcdayi5wl.cloudfront.ne...%20Lit_web.pdf What size trowel would I use for this? (I would like to avoid purchasing a bunch of sizes if I can).

Any special considerations/tips to manage the matting that is keeping the mosaics together?

Thanks!
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Unread 01-23-2020, 04:21 PM   #52
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I doubt the factory blade is a porcelain blade. I'd upgrade the blade first.

Looks like the tile thickness is 10mm, is that correct? Which I believe is roughly 3/8. I'd use a 1/4 x 1/4 notch trowel.

I'd make my corner joints the same as the joints in the field.
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Unread 02-12-2020, 07:16 PM   #53
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Schluter Deco-sg

anyone have experience using Schluter Deco-sg (channel embedded between tiles) to sit a tempered glass shower panel? I like the idea of not drilling into the waterproofing, and the clean look of the glass panel without brackets sticking out...however I am nervous about the stability of the panel and if someone accidentally slipped into it or...

also, I am considering just putting up a panel and not having a door (just entry way). with a rain head shower and i think i could get away with keeping the water mostly in the envelope of the space enclosed by the glass...
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Unread 02-12-2020, 08:07 PM   #54
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No experience with that particular Schluter profile, Pancho, but for fixed glass panels in showers I generally just embed the glass into the tile installation without any sort or channel or bracket.
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Unread 02-13-2020, 09:00 AM   #55
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What size is the shower, Pancho? If you use a rain head, will it be centered?

I don't have a photo of my glass panel on this computer. It's fairly large though, and I did use a single bracket on the floor (as well as horizontal brackets on the wall and end of the knee wall). I didn't set it in a channel out of fear that eventually water will get into the channel and mold will start and there'd be no way to clean it out, but maybe I was over-thinking it.

For comparison, my shower is 83" long and 42", I think, wide between the glass panel and the long back wall. No door, and the entry is about 26" wide, making the glass panel a bit less than 5' at its longest. The main shower head is on the short wall opposite the entry. I get water spray/splash on the bottom of the glass as high as maybe two feet, but literally none out of the entry.
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Unread 02-13-2020, 03:58 PM   #56
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i would LOVE to have a shower that big! haha

overall dimensions are 59" x 34.5"ish. rain head is approx 17.5" off far wall(s), which leaves ~40" to the other wall. if the glass is 34ish, opening is 25ish, it shouldn't get much spray at the opening...unless someone goes crazy with the wall mounted, vertically sliding hand-held on that far wall.

CX, how do you secure the glass panels then? do you just embed in thinset when setting the tile? or embed in caulk? kerdi fix?
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Unread 02-13-2020, 07:01 PM   #57
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I set the glass panel edge on clear plastic glazing shims directly on the direct bonded waterproof membrane (if used) after the tiles have been set on one side of the glass. I hold the glass away from those set tiles using tile wedges and block it in place while the tiles are set on the other side of the glass. When finished tiling and grouting, I caulk the glass/tile gaps with color matched sealant. Here's a photo of a small glass pane set on USG Durock Shower System membrane with one side tiled.

Name:  Like This.jpg
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Size:  36.4 KBName:  Finished Glass.jpg
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Unread 04-23-2020, 04:15 PM   #58
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shower shelf

...finally restarted on my project...tiles are going up, albeit very slowly...

having trouble with my niche shelf (niche is framed/water proofed). What materials are best for the shelf? Tempered glass (any recommendations on where to purchase)? Marble slab or some other type of stone? (all tile is porcelain in shower). (I'm using Schluter deco-sg for glass panel/divider, will have extra to use for shelf if i don't mud in directly). what would be easy/straightforward and look good? thanks!


Background info:

My original plan for the niche shelf doesn't look like it is going to work, so I'm looking for advice on how to proceed. my niche is ~10" wide, ~24" tall, 4.5-5" deep (depending on tile stack up). was looking to do bottom section at 14" high for 12" large bottles and top section at whatever the remaining height is.

original plan was to sandwich 2 bull nose tiles on an aluminum shelf made for that (small amount of thinset, sandwich 2 bull noses top and bottom, grout the gap facing out). Problem(s) are (1) bull nose tile is only 3" deep, so I wouldn't go all the way to the back of the niche, (2) the finishing of where the bull noses go behind the Schluter profile (using Jolly) and grouting those joints, corners and the gap behind the shelf.
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Unread 04-24-2020, 07:35 AM   #59
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Welcome back Pancho,

If it were mine I'd opt for some kind of stone or other solid surface material in order to avoid as many grout lines as possible. Niche shelves tend to stay wet, especially under the bottles. That probably means having them made, but the turn around time shouldn't be too long.

Set the bottom shelf with a pitch to drain. Install the niche side tiles to the height you want but cut the top of them at a slight angle (so when you set the shelf on them it will be pitched) and set the rear tiles. Install the 2nd shelf and the remaining tiles.

You'll need to give some thought about how the ends of the shelves finish out around the perimeter of the niche.
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Unread 04-24-2020, 12:03 PM   #60
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I find glass niche shelves to work well in some applications, Pancho. When I do that I don't run the shelf into the tile at the back of the niche, but leave a gap of at least 1/8th" and just support the shelf at the ends set into the tiles on the side walls. 3/8ths" tempered glass is generally sufficient.

Here's the niche in the same shower I showed above.

Name:  Niche 2.jpg
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My opinion; worth price charged.
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