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Unread 12-09-2019, 06:45 PM   #31
pancho_baño
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schluter pan birdbath mitigation?

Ugh...Just did a "golf ball test" on my installed schluter foam pan and very unfortunately found what looks like an area that will become a birdbath if I install tile as is. My idea to remedy is to put a thin layer of schluter all-set (which I have and will likely use to tile) and screed it to drain properly. Will let it harden, then tile over as if it was never there. Thoughts?

Am I better off doing it in 2 stages as described above or build up more in the area while tiling?
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Unread 12-09-2019, 07:29 PM   #32
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Not a recommended use for any thinset mortar, Pancho, but It might work OK. I would suggest you try the two step method and then only if you do not exceed the mortar manufacturer's maxim thickness, which is usually only 1/4-inch.

The flatten-while-you-set always sounds like a good plan, but it works best in theory. Not nearly so easy in practice.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 12-09-2019, 07:50 PM   #33
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Like Cx said, thinset isn't designed for building up but we all have done it. Buttering up is easier with large tiles and hardest when setting mosaics. I find it worth while to get the surface like it needs to be before setting the tiles.
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Unread 12-10-2019, 12:43 PM   #34
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Thanks for the responses guys. Definitely not ideal and not intended but I have to deal with what's in front of me. Floor tiles I am using are mosaic small format "smushed hexagon" roughly 3" x 5" (at widest points). Will lyk how it goes!
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Unread 12-12-2019, 01:30 PM   #35
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Schluter 24hour water test

Will be attempting the 24hr water test on my shower pan (Schluter foam + membrane). If anyone has any tips/advice on what to look out for, I would appreciate it.

I am a bit paranoid as I do have a neighbor below me, however I plan to be diligent about checking it regularly and at the first sign of potential leak will drain it and investigate further...Just need to know what to look for and how to find where it could be leaking?

Since I am going curbless, for my temporary curb, I extended the overlap piece of Schluter membrane about 5-6" to transition to the rest of the flooring to be put down later.
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Unread 12-12-2019, 01:54 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pancho
If anyone has any tips/advice on what to look out for, I would appreciate it.
Leaks. Look out for those.

I imagine you have devised a way of monitoring water level during the test. I used a stack of quarters, but anything will do. If it's going to leak it'll likely do so near or at the drain or corners. If it does leak it'll likely be difficult to pin point from where. Do you have one of the inflatable drain plugs?

I did my temporary curb the same as you did.
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Unread 12-12-2019, 02:05 PM   #37
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Hahaha, yes, I will be looking for leaks!

What evidence would you see on a bad corner or around the drain? Different color on the thinset? Bubbling or pulling up?

I was planning to just mark the top of the water with painters tape. I can do the quarters thing too.

I have an inflatable bladder style plug and I got a cheapo screw on style cap (with rubber gasket from Oatey) from a big box store. I've already tested the ABS, so I was thinking about going with the cap (and return the bladder for ~$35 back in my pocket).

I believe plumbing code requires the bladder(?), but at this point it will be stopping the water at roughly the same levels...
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Unread 12-12-2019, 03:26 PM   #38
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Pancho, you need to plug your drain in the riser below the connection with the Durock bonding flange drain. You cannot do that with the screw-top type plugs, you need the inflatable plug and an extension hose, which I assume is what you got for your thirty-five bucks, yes?
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Unread 12-12-2019, 04:31 PM   #39
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Ok, will do the bladder with extension. Just need to borrow my neighbor's bike pump...

Any other comments/suggestions on water test for Schluter shower pan test?
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Unread 12-12-2019, 05:11 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pancho
Any other comments/suggestions on water test for Schluter shower pan test?
Provide buckets and have the neighbor below put you on speed dial?

It'll be fine. IF there's a leak it's likely to be very slow, and unlikely to do much - if any, damage.
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Unread 01-03-2020, 06:59 PM   #41
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water test plug fail

so...the water test didn't quite go according to plan. I got a gt water products tp122 safe-t-seal test plug on amazon (actually ordered a 123 but received a 122).

Anyway, tested the plug according to instructions, thread taped the connections to the extender and bike pump to eliminate air leaks. Pumped it up to about 30psi, then the overflow release valve kicked in, which it settled in the high 20's psi (well under the max rating).

turns out, the inside of the pipe had dried abs glue drippings running almost the entire length of the pipe i can access. I tried to work them off with a screw driver to get the pipe as smooth as possible (while maintaining the integrity of the pipe). Unfortunately, it still leaks into the drain.

At this point, am I better off just using a cap style plug to do the water test? Or should I monkey around with trying to get more of the glue off resulting in potential damage to the pipe?

Also, I found a small air pocket behind (or in between) 2 layers of kerdi near a tricky spot where the drain flange butts up against the wall (about the size of a quarter). I had to cut some of the cement board to get the flange to sit correctly. Should I cut into the kerdi and back fill/try to fix? or just leave as is. If i try to fix, I might be going into 2 overlapping layers of kerdi...
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Unread 01-03-2020, 08:43 PM   #42
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I would first try putting some Vaseline on that inflatable bulb and see if that will help it seal in the pipe. Or some pipe dope. I've used both products (at different times) for similar problems.

Shouldn't take anywhere near the high 20s to get a seal with that bulb.

Not understanding your air pocket problem. A photo, perhaps?

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 01-07-2020, 04:13 PM   #43
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air pocket

thanks for the tip CX, I got some tru-blu from rectorseal and put that on the rubber plug. gonna do a mini prelim water test shortly.

as for the air pocket, attached is a pic. i had to cut away a bit of the lower part of the cement board so that the drain flange could fit. I back-filled the hole with some thinset, then put 1 piece of the kerdi over it (the circular one that comes with the drain kit) then overlapped that with another piece of kerdi to get the corner/change of plane. my finger is pointing at the small area (where the kerdi is more visible) that has a pocket the size of a quarter.

I can either leave it (have good kerdi coverage above and below) or cut into it and pump some kerdi fix in there, and then patch over with another piece of kerdi-band. additional options?

*** edit: the picture loaded upside down, so what i am pointing to is on the wall, not the floor. drain flange is the floor (obviously)
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Unread 01-07-2020, 04:21 PM   #44
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How large will your wall tile be, Pancho?
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Unread 01-07-2020, 04:32 PM   #45
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using 12" x 24". I will likely have to cut some to fit, at different points due to my window issue, so it could be as small as 11 x 5.

If its the difference between cutting that part and leaving it as is, i'd rather leave as is and re-plan my tile to maximize the size that covers that area.
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