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Unread 03-15-2019, 10:30 PM   #91
jadnashua
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The actual time recommended for mixing really does make a difference, sometimes a HUGE difference. The mortar often doesn't achieve the designed smoothness and spreadability unless you follow the instructions. What may look like it won't be good at all, after the proper mixing, suddenly changes, sometimes radically, and quickly. One of the most dramatic ones for that situation is one special mortar from Laticrete...it looks like it will never work until, poof, it all comes together. Add more water at the beginning, and it does not work anywhere near as well. Some mortars are more like this than others. The actual mixing not only makes for a homogenous mix, but it also ensures on a modified mortar that all of the modifiers are spread around the cement and aggregate plus, helps to break apart any larger (relatively speaking) particles, which helps the smoothness factor. Some people attempt to achieve that by adding more water to the mix and not mixing as long. This is a big mistake, and will not give you the product performance you paid for or should expect...extra water will make the product weaker - it might appear to be easier to spread than the 'right' amount if it were mixed properly if you failed to follow instructions, but that's not true. On some, they give you a range of acceptable water in the mix. Use the wetter range to embed something with fleece where it needs to flow well, and lower to actually set your tile so things don't slump while doing it.
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Last edited by jadnashua; 03-15-2019 at 10:43 PM.
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Unread 03-17-2019, 01:55 PM   #92
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Thanks for the tips. They had both All-Set and Set but I decided to stick with the Ditra-Set. I'll follow the mixing instructions to the T.

As a progress update, the weird plywood joint in front of the tub got filled with planipatch. Left an expansion gap filled with sill gasket.
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The rest of the floor was flattened using the procedure in this youtube video at 0:37: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1M6C0f4L1d8. (Not really, that's the perfect level bit from Rick and Morty.) Looks like this:
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All planipatch trowelled and screeded. Pretty nice stuff. Not quite like the video but within 1/16" over 4'. The middle is still dipped but I layed out some of the planks and the lippage is no worse than 1/32" so with the ditra and mortar, should be pretty good. I plan on using a 3/4x1/2x1/4 half ellipse trowel and leveling clips. Ditra is going down with flexbond next.
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If any of this sounds wrong, please tell me.

I went for nice tile so the planks are straight but the edges and corners are kind of sharp. Don't want my wife to hurt her feet. Should I go over the edges with a rubbing stone to dull them a bit or will the grout take care of that?
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Unread 03-25-2019, 08:13 AM   #93
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Tub to liquid membrane seal

I do have a project thread going but I think people got tired of me writing up a 15 page plan for each fastener and this is pretty general.

I have a tub with Ditra on the floor in front of it and AquaDefense-covered cement board above it. The Ditra-to-tub joint is getting kerdi-fix and kerdi-band. I was going to do the same, -fix and -band, all around the tub and vinyl window to seal the cement board joint as well. The flange is behind the CBU.

Is it worth it to -band over the liquid membrane at all? I don't mind putting in the effort but it might not be much of an improvement, it's more chance to screw up, and it's more build-up. I would still use kerdi-fix all around so it's a continuous bead all around the tub.

Should I forget the kerdi-band on the CBU to tub joint and just caulk the joint with kerdi-fix?
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Unread 03-25-2019, 08:41 AM   #94
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If you don't think you're getting timely response to your questions, Paul, just make another post to your thread to bump it to the top of the queue for attention rather than starting new threads. A moderator can give this one a more generic title any time you'd like to suggest one.

If your wallboards fall on the drain side of your tub's tiling flange I would see no need for the sheet membrane band at the bottom.

I don't see your window in any of your photos, but in general I don't know of a good way to terminate waterproofing there other than with a sheet membrane and adequate sealant. Your liquid-applied waterproofing manufacturer may specify a method of connecting his product in such an application and you should check that to determine your best option.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 03-27-2019, 08:34 PM   #95
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Had to buy another box of plank tile. It's over a year since I bought the other two boxes. I thought the color might be a bit off. The color is probably ok but they're different enough that it doesn't just look like a different batch but a different production facility or something. The grid on the bottom is different, the planks are ~3/16 longer, a hair narrower, and the texture on top is different. Smoother but more "woodgrain" lumpy. Is this normal? Before I get into it with the tile place, is there a chance of success in getting something closer to the old tiles?
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Unread 03-27-2019, 08:38 PM   #96
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You still have one of the original two boxes?

A year is a long time laps to find identical lot numbers, Paul.

You purchase these new tiles from the same vendor as the originals?
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Unread 03-27-2019, 08:43 PM   #97
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Same shop. And, yes, I do have the other two boxes.
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Last edited by SpaceCadet; 03-27-2019 at 09:02 PM. Reason: answered both questions
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Unread 03-27-2019, 09:07 PM   #98
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Paul, there's no way to know if you'll find it or not. You'll have to talk with them and have them check their stock. If it's a large company like Dal tile, they can check warehouses all over the country.
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Unread 03-28-2019, 07:31 AM   #99
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Sounds like it's normal for different batches to be this different then. I was surprised. They're almost like different types of tile. It is Daltile and I'll talk to the shop. Thanks.
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Unread 03-31-2019, 08:18 AM   #100
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cleaning for Kerdi-fix

I want to make sure surfaces are in perfect shape before I seal things with kerdi-fix. I've got an enameled surface and vinyl that have been covered with blue painter's tape for months. If I pull that off, is it going to leave any residue that will interfere with the -fix? What's a good thing to wipe it down with, acetone?
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Unread 03-31-2019, 01:18 PM   #101
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Acetone, paint thinner, or mineral spirits.
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Unread 03-31-2019, 01:37 PM   #102
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I recommend not to use acetone or other strong solvents on vinyl. It might soften and damage the surface. Maybe something like "Goo Gone" is a better choice in this case to remove adhesive traces.
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Unread 04-03-2019, 08:09 AM   #103
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Thanks for the tips. I used acetone before I read Woflgang's warning but it was a very small amount, I think the vinyl is ok.

Applied kerdi-band with Ditra-Set and Kerdi-Fix. I only use product with hyphenated names. Mixed 10 lbs of Ditra-set at the prescribed 6 quarts to 50 lbs ratio and it came out unworkably thick. Fought with it, added water, and got it to the right consistency (loose but able to hold a notch) but it took about 20 min in all.

Took a bit longer than I expected to set based on the instructions. It's been a few days and the leftovers are solid, the band seems to be holding well and the ditra waffle fillings are hard but in some places where it only got a film, like smeared over the kerdi-band, the mortar comes off as dried powder if I rub at it. Is this because the moisture evaporated before the mortar got a chance to set? Do I need to brush and vacuum it off so it's not a bond-breaker for the tiles or will it incorporate into the mortar that goes over it?
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Unread 04-08-2019, 06:15 AM   #104
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Set some cheap 36"x6" planks on left-over drywall to practice. I'm using a 3/4x1/2x1/4 half-ellipse trowel and tuscan seam clips. Looks mediocre so far but that's why I practice. I get a lot of mortar oozing up through the joints when I press the planks down but then I pull them up and the coverage is still not complete sometimes. I can press down harder and just clean up the joints with a painter's tool and sponge but the clips are in the way, especially while they're still open. Removing some of the mortar where the clips go before the neighboring planks comes down helps but only so much. Something I'm doing sound obviously wrong? I could use some pointers, please.
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Unread 04-19-2019, 07:06 AM   #105
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Could use some advice on this.

Set the plank tile Wednesday night with ditra-set over ditra. Cleaned up grout joints last night and see that one of the tiles at the edge of the field is tilted. It's the one right in the center of this picture, with the cutout for the radiator enclosure:
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There's a wider part hidden by the enclosure. The cutout kind of hooks around the metal. The tile is flush with its neighbor to the left but 1/8" above the ones at either narrow end on the wall side. That side is under the radiator or covered up by trim but I'd like to fix it. I can only get to it tonight so it'll be 48+ hour old ditra-set. Have I got a reasonable chance of pulling this tile up whole? It's was a pretty complex cut, I'd rather not have to do it again and the spares aren't ideal. Any recommendations on how to remove it?
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