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Unread 01-05-2020, 11:02 PM   #16
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Can't make a recommendation on the ceiling use of KerdiBoard, Jim, as I've never done it and didn't know if Schluter recommeded it. What thickness board did you use? What is your ceiling joist spacing?

Putting dollops of thinset mortar on the thin edge of dimension wood wall studs and expecting it to stay there in that form long term just makes no sense to me at all and I was very surprised, to say the least, when Schluter started recommending it. You wanna do it, that's fine with me, but I sure don't recommend it.

Far better you should find you some straight 2x4s and sister them to your errant wall studs such that you make them plumb and all in plane. But, again, that's entirely up to you.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 01-15-2020, 04:21 PM   #17
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Just a random question, I installed a tile floor a few months back using raimondi leveling clips and the results were great. I was wondering if there were leveling clips that could be used with glass tile. I am afraid that the remaining pieces of the clip would be visible. Any thoughts?

Also, like to say thanks to CX for your help. I couldn't sister the studs on the plumbing wall, but I did on the adjacent wall, and flattened the plumbing wall out with a combination of sanding and shims. No wet shimming!
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Unread 01-15-2020, 07:24 PM   #18
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Helping is what the site is all about, Jim.

If you're installing glass tiles large enough to justify lippage control devices, seeing the feet remaining under your tile edges is only one of the problems you're likely to encounter.

What tiles, specifically, are we talking about here?
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Unread 01-15-2020, 08:14 PM   #19
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One of the problems with glass tiles is the translucent factor. Glass tiles require a 100% , even thinset coating on the back side as to give an even appearance from the front side. Using a leveling system would make a space in the thinset which you might see from the front side.
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Unread 01-15-2020, 09:14 PM   #20
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The tiles are 4 x 12. I got the walls very (not perfectly) flat, but for the size of tile we are using, I feel pretty comfortable with the install, I just saw some large format tiles at the tile store the other day and was curious if there was a leveling system that could work for them.

One other question re. Glass subway tile, take a glass subway tile 8mm thick, does the quality vary much from one manufacturer to the next. It seems like the majority are made in China. Is there a difference in the glass or the backing between manufacturers? If so are there any in particular you recommend?
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Unread 01-16-2020, 07:33 AM   #21
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The glass accent tiles I used actually have a plastic "base" on the back of them. The pattern seen through the glass is imprinted onto the face of the plastic, which is then adhered to the back of the glass. Not entirely sure of the process used but the backs are definitely plastic. So you might be able to use clips, as long as they brake off cleanly and completely at their base. If they don't you'll see them through the edges.
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Unread 01-21-2020, 12:08 AM   #22
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Had a new issue come up and was hoping to get some thoughts. The slab guys came today to do the template for the drop in tub. When I asked if the could put a seam under the glass panel separating the shower they said sure, but I need to build up the rest of the deck about 1/8” to make room for the sloped piece. I have already installed 3/4” plywood to the framing, and haven’t installed the ditra yet.
Could I put a piece of luan panel on the plywood (and stop it at the seam) and attach the ditra to that? Could I set the slab in a thicker bed of thinset? Could I skip the ditra under the sloped portion of the deck? Or is there any other suggestions for dealing with this?
Finally I was planning to back butter the slab and set it in a bed of Schluter all set, does that seem reasonable?
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Unread 01-21-2020, 07:20 AM   #23
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How wide and long is the section of tub deck on the shower side of the glass?
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Unread 01-21-2020, 09:12 AM   #24
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The width (under the glass) is about 50” and the length (perpendicular to glass from the glass to the knee wall) is about 3”. There will be an overhang of about 3/4” for a total of about 3.75”
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Unread 01-21-2020, 11:58 AM   #25
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Since you have asked the fabricators to slice that 50X3.75 piece off from the main slab, any chance they can take that piece and put a bevel on it?
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Unread 01-21-2020, 09:59 PM   #26
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Just so I understand, a bevel where specifically? Are you asking if they could bevel the underside to make it flat across the bottom? I have worked with these granite guys before and they have always been accommodating, I just need to know what to ask them specifically
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Unread 01-22-2020, 07:26 AM   #27
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If I understand the challenge, you have part of your tub deck slab extending into your shower area. Your glass dividing partition will set atop the deck slab, and will leave a 3.5" wide by 50" long section of the slab within the shower. Ideally you want that 3.5X50 section sloped towards the shower drain. Since the tub deck was not framed to incorporate a slope for that 3.5X50 section I would see if the fabricators can machine that section to be tapered.

If the 3.5X50" piece is 1" thick, see if they can machine it so it remains 1" thick on one side but tappers to 3/4" or 7/8" on the other across the 3.5" dimension.
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