New bathroom remodel

[airplaneguy1]

Great forum everyone. A quick question on Curb attachment to a basement concrete floor. Do you let it float on the floor, secure it with fasteners, or use an adhesive such as liquid nails? I plan on using wood two by fours as the core material.

Don

[cx]

Welcome, Don.

On a below-grade slab like that a lotta folks would recommend you use CMUs (bricks, blocks, etc) instead of wood for your curb mandrel. Unless you've done a good test of the floor for moisture vapor emissions and found it to be very dry.

When attaching a curb to SOG, I generally use mechanical fasteners and construction adhesive. But it depends upon the situation at hand, for me. And again, after checking for moisture.

My opinion; worth price charged.

[Shaughnn]

For slab-on-grade, I'd go with CMUs. No worry of warp, rot, or release.
Best of luck,
Shaughnn

[Houston Remodeler]

For SOG you can also use a kerdi foam curb. Less work and skill, more $$

[MarkTarkus]

I use brick pavers from HD. Thinset to slab. 42 cents each.

[airplaneguy1]

I'll probably use brick or block attached with thinset then. If i need a second course can that be layed with thinset also or should mortar be used for the second course? Everyone, thank you for your response.

Don

[montana_RU]

I use concrete bricks and secure them with Ultra-Set.

[MarkTarkus]

Second course is fine with thinset also. Just get it level across from jamb to jamb and I like to tilt it a bit towards the drain.

[jadnashua]

You do want a sligth slope into the shower for the top of the curb. Puddling water is not good, anywhere...you want it to drain on its own, and definately not drain OUT of the shower!

[airplaneguy1]

Would appreciate some advise. Bathroom has been torn back to studs. Here are specifics. Bathroom is in basement on concrete slab. The shower has one wall next to outside wall. The other wall will be an interior wall. The plan is to use durock cementboard for interior walls and ceiling of shower.

In the biuilding of the shower walls, should i build a shower curb all around the perimiter with walls on top of the curb or can i build walls directly attached to the concrete subfloor? More questions to come i'm sure.

Thanks for the advise everyone.

Don

[cx]

Welcome back, Don.

This the same basement shower from a year ago, or you got two showers down there?

I would build my walls directly on the slab. What's your rationale for wanting a curb first?

What manner of shower pan have you planned?

[airplaneguy1]

Yes this is the same shower. I should have mentioned that one wall of the shower will be flush with a new vanity so a floor to ceiling wall is probably a better way to go right?

The plan is for a custom pan/shower in order to make a larger shower than the original. I had originally planned on a curb arrangement because i was planning on glass shower walls. That plan has been changed.

Original drain is copper 1 1/2 inch i believe. It will have to be extended because of thickness of new pan. Could be relocated if needed. Will slop pan as needed and install proper pan liner.

Believe i have the basics down due to this excellent site. I only waiver on the installaion of the moisture barrier issue. Plastic behind the durock or use redguard on the Durock and forget the moisture barrier? What are your thoughts?

Thanks for your reply

Don

[Lazarus]

Dealer's Choice, Don. Plastic works and is cheaper....Liquid is probably better as moisture never gets thru the walls. Also look at Laticrete's "Hydroban." A bit more Heavy Duty.

[airplaneguy1]

What are current thoughts on using treated lumber for wall construction because of shower construction and that the shower in on a concrete slab on grade?

Thanks for the replys

Don

[cx]

Looks like you're actually on a below grade slab there, Don, but that makes no difference in my attitude about using treated wood.

If I can get KDAT, I'll use it. If I cannot get KDAT, I don't use treated wood for anything associated with a ceramic tile installation. And, actually, not in any other application in residential construction if not absolutely forced to do so.

Good quality KD lumber, separated with a strip of roofing felt, will serve just fine if your slab doesn't have moisture problems. If your slab does have moisture problems, I recommend you fix those before you continue with the project.

Old argument, that, and the above is:

My opinion; worth price charged.