Jason's DIY guest bathroom remodel...Help needed (pics included)

[Zubz]

Hello Everyone,

First off, thank you for this great forum. I've done a ton of reading already and have learned a lot. I consider myself fairly handy, meaning I don't mind taking on a project and I can follow directions well! My tiling experience so far has all been in dry rooms. One small kitchen floor in my old condo, and a powder room in my current townhome.

Now I am taking on a complete remodel of my guest bathroom. I have other projects to follow after this, so I went out and bought a Felker TM-75. I like collecting power tools, and I figure I'll continue years of use out of it.

I will use this thread to post my progress. Also I know I will have questions along the way, so I will post them here as well. Any insight is much appreciated.

Alright, now on to the project...here are some before pics.

[Zubz]

Here are some after pics of the demo. I should mention that from the pics, it might look like I removed all of the drywall. In fact, I mainly just took down where the tiles were. I plan on leaving the rest as is, if thats advisable. Couple quick questions to start.

1) You can see I left the ceiling as is, after pulling the tiles off of it. Can I tile over this, or should I put it down and replace? I plan on using cement board on walls, what should I use for the ceiling piece in the shower?

2) If you look at the pics, you can see where the toilet drain is. We are considering if it would be a better layout to move that to the left of where the new vanity will go. Basically buy a smaller vanity then what was in before, and use the freed up space for the toilet? I think the drain pipe is coming in from that direction, so might be easy to do, but I might higher a plumber for that if it is difficult.

I have a couple other questions to start, but I figure this is a good start. Thanks in advance!!

[Lazarus]

Really your call on the ceiling. Easy enough to put up new board, but I see nothing wrong with "Flat Burning" it with thinset and re-install your tile.

[Zubz]

Thanks for the reply. Any other thoughts on the ceiling?

Also, any thoughts on the layout of the bathroom? Leave the toilet where it is, or move towards the other wall next to a smaller vanity?

Thanks!

[Eastrick]

For the toilet (or the person on it) to be comfortable, I believe that 30" is around the minimum you'd want between the wall and the new vanity, with the toilet centered. Make a mark at 30" and see what you have left for the vanity and see if it will work for you.

CJ

[Houston Remodeler]

30 inches is good unless you have very large people or elderly or handicapped (physically, visually, or just teenagers) people using the bathroom.

[Zubz]

I do not have much experience with plumbing. How big of a job will it be to move the toilet? Something I can attempt myself, or bring in a pro?

[Houston Remodeler]

Jason,

Define "big"...... Moving a toilet in a slab isnt a huge deal. Technically its quiet simple. I see you are over a wood frame. If this is the second floor then re-routing the pipes may be easy depending on what is in your way; where the beams, trusses, supports, ducting and such are. Can you open the floor and take a pic?

[Zubz]

OK - I attached an edited picture to help with the discussion. THe arrow pointing to the right shows the direction and location of current toilet. The arrow pointing "down" is the potential location and direction of new toilet. So I am moving it a couple feet. I am down to the plywood on the floor. I assume there is nothing below the plywood but the pipes. No cemet slab, unless I am mistaken.

I think this would be a much nicer layout of the bathroom. Instead of opening the door and seeing the toilet right away, also making more room by the shower. This would still allow for 24" - 30" vanity, as the wall is 5 feet long. Hope this helps, look forward to any thoughts.

[cx]

Direction and location of your floor joists and existing drain line will have a bearing on the complexity of the move, Jason.

[opiethetileman]

but in all reality its not that hard to move it..............just need a sawzall with a good metal blade..........a 4 in fernco non hub and some pipe prob a 90 bend 4 in and a new toliet flange.......you can either cap the old water line for the toliet where it is and tap off the cold side of the sink and extend the cold line from the old location............or you can pay a plumber from 350 bucks or more to do it...when the material is about 40 to 60 bucks if that...it will take more time than anything

[Zubz]

Hi Everyone,

I have a new Kohler tub to install, as well as the drain and overflow kit from Kohler. You can see it has a slotted overflow which is a little unique, so had to get the correct kit directly from Kohler. I have 2 main questions:

1) As you can see from the pics, the bathroom currently has ABS in it. The Kohler kit is PVC. I've done some research, and the general consesus is the 2 don't mix well. I don't think I really have a choice here, so what is the best way for me to connec these items work together.

2) I have general confusion around the tub installation process, in regards to the pipes. Meaning, it seems it is recommended to install the new drain kit on the tub FIRST, then drop the tub in place. This bathroom is on 2nd floor, and I don't have access to the pipes from below. So I don't see how I would make the connections from the drain to the existing plumbing in the bathroom once the tub is installed. It would seem that I would have to install the drain kit onto the existing plumbing FIRST, then drop the tub in on top of it?

I attached some pics to help. I really appreciate the advice.

Jason

[Zubz]

Oh, and thanks for the prior advice, I decided to leave the toilet as is. Thanks for merging thread too.

[cx]

A fella need him a hole inna wall behind that tub plumbing, Jason.

You're correct that the ABS and PVC can't mix there where you need cemented fittings. But you can easily cut the ABS and connect to some PVC using a no-hub fitting (Fernco or other) for your transition.

You can maybe do that directly above your P-trap, or you might need to cut the horizontal run further down stream.

My opinion; worth price charged.

[Zubz]

OK...on this picutre, is that about the spot that I would cut, use a Fernco fitting, and start the PVC?