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11-26-2022, 10:35 AM
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#106
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2022
Location: Baltimore, MD
Posts: 90
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CX
None that I'm aware of, other than ease of application. Just grouting everything does have that advantage, in my opinion.
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Makes sense... thanks!
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Mike - Baltimore, MD
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11-26-2022, 11:58 AM
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#107
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Moderator
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Fairfax, Va
Posts: 5,818
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FWIW, Mike, I grouted all the joints in the 3 niches I have installed. The first was done back in 2007 ish. 2nd was back in Oct 2019, and 3rd was recently. No cracks in the grout in any of them.
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Dan
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If I recall correctly my memory is excellent, but my ability to access it is intermittent.
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11-27-2022, 07:28 AM
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#108
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2022
Location: Baltimore, MD
Posts: 90
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Dan, Thanks for the additional feedback... sharing all past experience is always greatly appreciated!
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Mike - Baltimore, MD
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11-27-2022, 07:55 AM
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#109
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Moderator
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Fairfax, Va
Posts: 5,818
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Anytime, Mike. Not that it likely matters, but I should have noted that the two oldest were grouted with Spectralock Pro/Pro Premium, newest was done with Spectralock 1.
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Dan
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If I recall correctly my memory is excellent, but my ability to access it is intermittent.
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11-27-2022, 08:33 AM
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#110
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2022
Location: Baltimore, MD
Posts: 90
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Dan, The additional information about the types of grouts used for your shower niches does help... since these products are shown to be more durable then a basic sanded grout (Spectralock Pro Premium - epoxy grout / Spectralock 1 - "epoxy like" features).
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Mike - Baltimore, MD
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11-27-2022, 09:22 AM
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#111
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Moderator emeritus
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Boerne, Texas
Posts: 97,858
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike
...since these products are shown to be more durable then a basic sanded grout...
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I dunno 'bout that, Mike. I've seen cementitious grout that's lasted in excess of 80 years, and some of the grout types you mentioned are just barely seeing their first decade of service and one of the ones you mention is far newer than that. I think the jury is still out on the long term durability of some of them.
My opinion; worth price charged.
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11-27-2022, 09:42 AM
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#112
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2022
Location: Baltimore, MD
Posts: 90
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CX, Thanks for pointing this out.
I should have stated that "shown to be more durable" is what I read from the manufacturers website that was describing these products.
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Mike - Baltimore, MD
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11-27-2022, 11:07 AM
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#113
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Moderator emeritus
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Boerne, Texas
Posts: 97,858
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Understand. Likely written by an advertisement department guy who may not have been around even as long as the new types of grout.
My opinion; worth price charged.
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12-01-2022, 05:03 PM
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#114
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2022
Location: Baltimore, MD
Posts: 90
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I continued installing tile on the back and wet wall of the shower. The next hole to drill in the tile was for the shower neck fitting I had installed into the drop elbow (post #48). My first attempt at drilling the hole was a fail, as I could not keep the drill with the hole saw steady enough on my own.
So, I took a scrap piece of tile and cut/drilled the correct size hole in it… and used this piece as a guide when drilling the hole into the shower tile (this guide also served as a dam to hold water for the hole saw).
This approach worked out pretty well… so I kept installing the shower tile.
Next, I needed to install the small pieces of bottom, sides, and top niche tile. I cut small shims (from the ceramic tile) to the proper size and placed them inside the niche to ensure that when these pieces of tile are thinset into place, they will be positioned exactly where they need to be for aligning with the pencil trim (and the bottom niche tile will have the correct slope towards the shower). I used some pieces of cpvc pipe to hold these niche tiles in place once they were installed.
With the top, bottom, and side niche tiles in place, I could resume tiling this last shower wall. I used another piece of cpvc to keep the shower wall tile (positioned directly over the niche) from moving. I will most likely install the niche pencil trim pieces once I am completely done tiling the shower.
… And then I ran out of thinset mortar! Too many yard sculptures, I guess
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Mike - Baltimore, MD
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12-02-2022, 09:48 AM
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#115
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Moderator
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Fairfax, Va
Posts: 5,818
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Looking good, Mike!
Dang - looks like the width of the niche is just enough to preclude using a single piece for the top and bottom. Had the same thing happen when I did the front of my benches; just a hair too long.
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Dan
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If I recall correctly my memory is excellent, but my ability to access it is intermittent.
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12-02-2022, 05:12 PM
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#116
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2022
Location: Baltimore, MD
Posts: 90
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Dan, Thanks for the feedback! It's always appreciated!
... and you are correct. The inside width of the niche is 17". Unfortunately, the pencil trim only comes in 12" lengths, so I'll have a joint the pencil trim in the center (to match the top and bottom tiles).
The height of the inside of the niche is 11", so a single piece of 12" pencil trim will work on both sides. I'm going to miter each corner of the pencil trim at 45 degrees to create a "framed" look.
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Mike - Baltimore, MD
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12-10-2022, 10:25 PM
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#117
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2022
Location: Baltimore, MD
Posts: 90
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I picked up another bag of thinset and got the rest of the shower wall tiles installed. After that was done, I started to install the bullnose tiles to finish the ends of the side shower walls. I overlapped the bullnose tiles onto the bathroom drywall about a 1/2" for a clean look.
With all the bullnose tiles in place, I began to work on the top of the shower curb. I wanted to do a single top piece for the top of the shower curb… and found some “Engineered Marble” from Lowes with a decent color for the shower/bathroom. The piece of engineered marble was too large for my needs and had to be cut to the correct size. I was able to reduce the width and the length of the marble curb without too much hassle using the table top tile saw I had purchased… but now I had to duplicate the mitered edges along the entire length on the cut side of the marble.
After several test runs, I found the best way to produce a clean mitered edge was by making a jig using an old portion of shower door frame rail (this is why I never throw things like this away). I cut a small section out of the frame rail for the saw blade to come through and then adjusted the angle of the frame to 45 degrees from the blade.
With the jig securely in place, I was then able to easily slide the piece of marble along the frame rail and was able to get a very clean miter along the cut side of the curb top.
Curb top installed (level from side to side and slight tilt down towards the shower pan).
The last item to install within the shower were the pencil trim pieces that go around the niche. It took me a little while to get all of the trim pieces cut and shimmed/spaced correctly, but I think the effort was worth it.
At last… the tiling of the shower is complete!!!
Now on to grouting, caulking, and fixture installation.
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Mike - Baltimore, MD
Last edited by RifRaf; 12-11-2022 at 08:43 AM.
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12-11-2022, 09:33 AM
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#118
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Moderator emeritus
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Boerne, Texas
Posts: 97,858
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Whatever works is the order of the day, Mike. Nice job.
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12-11-2022, 09:36 AM
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#119
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Moderator
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: NW Arkansas, Ozark Mountains
Posts: 12,567
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Good job, Mike.
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Kevin
The top ten reasons to procrastinate:
1.
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12-11-2022, 11:18 AM
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#120
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Moderator
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Fairfax, Va
Posts: 5,818
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Lookin good, Mike.
I bet that piece of engineered whatever-it-is is the same thing I picked up from Lowes to do the niche in the shower I recently finished.
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Dan
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If I recall correctly my memory is excellent, but my ability to access it is intermittent.
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