My First Bathroom Remodel (with pics)

[RifRaf]

Originally Posted by ss3964spd

It can take such a long time to get to the point of actually rebuilding, it's a milestone!

Ain't that the truth!... especially when I am so particular with how things look (even when they will be covered up).

Oh, by the way…
I just received my diploma from the “School for the Gifted” while trying to open a tube of Wedi sealant.


While I was prepping the wedi shower pan for installation, I needed to affix the wedi shower drain to the shower pan… and you need to use wedi joint sealant to complete this step.

I cut the end off of the funnel on the sealant tube and tried using the rod on my caulking gun to puncture the top of the tube thru the funnel (same way I have been opening a caulking tube for years).

As hard as I tried, I could not puncture thru the tube. I then tried using a screwdriver to puncture thru the top of the sealant tube… still no luck. I thought I might have gotten a defective tube (since the expiration date on the wedi sealant tube was Feb 2023). I tried to open another tube of wedi sealant and the same thing happened… unable to puncture (same expiration date).
Completely frustrated, I called the tile store where I purchased this sealant and informed them of the issue. They told me to stop in and exchange the wedi sealant for some new tubes.

Upon arrival to the tile store, I spoke to the Asst Manager. He looked at the wedi sealant tubes I brought in and also tried to puncture them. The Asst Manager exchanged all of my wedi sealant for new tubes of sealant. While I was at the store, I decided to check the new tubes of wedi sealant before I left the store (cut off funnel tip and puncture tube) … and no dice! The same thing was happening. The Asst Manager and another store employee also tried to puncture the new wedi sealant tubes without success. None of us could understand why so many tubes of wedi sealant would be defective.

As I was standing at the counter within the store, I started to fiddle with one of the sealant tube funnels. And to my surprise, the funnel unscrewed from the tube… exposing the molded cap on the top of the tube.

I took a razor knife and cut off the molded cap on the top of the tube (but left the threaded portion for the re-installation of the funnel). I took my screwdriver and stuck it down into the sealant and all was good.

I now realized that I had made a mistake and apologized to the tile store’s Asst Manager and store employee for my error. The funny thing is that both the Asst Store Manager and the store employee admitted that they also did not know that this was the correct way to open a tube of wedi sealant. I guess this was a learning experience for all of us.

[ss3964spd]

Points, Mike, for making a special trip to the store and dragging them all down with ya! Laticrete caulk tubes have the very same set up.

Had my own fun recently with a tube of Mapei's Kerecaulk S. For reasons I don't understand, the stuff self-dispenses even after releasing the handle of the caulk gun. I first though the gun was at fault but, even after retracting the plunger manually, the tube still dribbled caulk. For several minutes. I used 3/4 of a tube on a job that should have used only 1/4 of the tube.

I have a vague recollection of someone here experiencing the same thing with that caulk.

[RifRaf]

With the shower pan in place, I began to install the wedi wall panels. I started with the back shower wall first.


Before I moved on to installing the side shower walls, I mocked up the height of the tiled shower floor and confirmed that the wife was comfortable reaching the shower head before I glued the control valve’s upper cpvc pipe and shower elbow fitting in place.

You may have noticed that I installed a brass extension fitting into the drop ear elbow fitting (red arrow). The brass fitting will extend about 1/4” beyond the finished tile surface of the shower wall. The reason I did this was because of a shower leak within the shower wall several years ago due to a failing shower head extension tube. The shower head extension tubes are not very thick… and the tube is even thinner where the threads have been cut into it. It was at the threaded portion of the tube (within the shower wall) that the leak occurred.
With the brass fitting in place, the threaded portion of the extension tube will be on the outside of the shower’s tiled wall… and any future leaks from this area will be contained within the waterproof area of the shower (not behind the waterproofing as normally installed).

I have also seen examples of Moen shower handles that are too far away from the shower control valve trim when installed following Moen’s installation instructions.

I wanted to avoid this, so I tested fitted the shower control valve and spaced it so that the handle would be much closer to the trim plate… but I also wanted some adjustability so I could “fine tune” the handle depth (just in case my “test fitting” calculations were a little off).

I accomplished this adjustability by adding some movable shims behind the shower control valve (where the control valve mounts to the wood blocking – red arrow).

These shims swivel up so I am able to adjust the depth of the shower control valve so that the shower handle and trim are well spaced. Adjustments could be easily made by just loosening a couple screws thru the opening in the shower wall for the control valve > adjust shims as needed > retighten control valve to wood blocking.

Next, I insulated the shower’s water supply pipes and then completed the installation of the remaining wedi shower wall panels.

[cx]

With the brass fitting in place, the threaded portion of the extension tube will be on the outside of the shower’s tiled wall… and any future leaks from this area will be contained within the waterproof area of the shower (not behind the waterproofing as normally installed).

You're right, Mike, not likely to crack either the shower arm, the brass fitting, nor the IP fitting there this time. Almost certainly gonna crack that plastic drop-el instead. And I think that very likely, but I didn't get a vote.

My opinion; worth price charged.

[RifRaf]

Originally Posted by CX

Almost certainly gonna crack that plastic drop-el instead. And I think that very likely, but I didn't get a vote.

CX, Thank you for your opinion regarding the cpvc drop ear elbow. I always value and respect your advice.

At first, I was also apprehensive about using a cpvc drop elbow for the shower head… but our house has well water and it is very hard on any copper pipe and brass fittings. The previous copper/brass plumbing I had also created blue/teal staining in all of the bathrooms’ sinks, tub, and shower due to the corrosion within the pipes… and I wanted to eliminate all traces of this issue.

While shopping at Home Depot, I noticed there are 2 kinds of cpvc drop ear elbows…
One constructed of all cpvc (even the threaded portion) that only had 2 thin attachment ears that looked very weak.


And the one I selected… I very sturdy / heavy duty version with 3 very thick attachment ears and a stainless steel threaded insert that was molded into the fitting.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/NIBCO-1-...HD12/206337951

I also did some research on the heavy duty cpvc drop ear elbow and saw the following video.
https://youtu.be/wg-37awPJh0

But… you can’t believe everything you see on the internet, so I decided to do my own “stress test” on the heavy duty cpvc drop elbow (using a spare set-up I had).

The first test was a downward force load test on the cpvc drop elbow. I attached the cpvc drop elbow onto a wooden board and attached a 3” long threaded nipple into the elbow. I then proceeded to add weight to the end of the threaded nipple to test the cracking / breaking point of this cpvc drop elbow.
I started with 50 lbs of weight… then moved to 75 lbs… and then 100 lbs. All was good with no signs of breaking or cracking.


I then hung 150 lbs of weight from the cpvc drop elbow. I chose to hang the weight from the far end of the pipe nipple to created the most stress on the drop elbow.

I left this weight hanging from the cpvc drop elbow for over 4 hours and all was good!... no signs of cracking or breaking.

My next test was a torque load test of the cpvc drop elbow. I took my 16” channel lock pliers and proceeded to tighten the pipe nipple (attached to the brass extension fitting) into the stainless steel insert as tight as I could turn it… much tighter than I would ever try to turn a shower arm inserted into this fitting.

Once again, no signs of breaking or cracking.

I know that the tests I preformed are no guarantee to the longevity of the cpvc drop ear elbow… but I feel much more confident with using this fitting within my shower.

[cx]

Tres interesting, Mike. I've never encountered that drop-el you have there and it does appear to defeat my concerns about plastic female threaded fittings cracking quite commonly. I thought you had put a male metal threaded fitting into a plastic female threaded fitting and was worried. Now I'm not and I thank you for the bit of education. That's mostly what this site is about, and I tend to learn more than most visitors.

[RifRaf]

Originally Posted by CX

thank you for the bit of education. That's mostly what this site is about.

CX, I have learned so much from you... and others on this forum. I am happy that I was able to provide some information that could also be helpful to others.
It is forums like this that give us DIY'ers the guidance and confidence needed to take on projects that we may have never attempted

I installed all of the drywall… and am ready to begin the next steps.



I know this is a tile forum, but I do have a couple of questions about the “tape and mud” phase for those that have experience with this process.

I have seen that a lot of people like the USG PLUS 3 Drywall joint compound… and to add a little bit off Carpenters Wood Glue (with the appropriate amount of added water) to the joint compound mixture for the drywall “mud and taping” process.


Am I on the right track with my research?...
Or should I be using the All Purpose (Green Lid) joint compound for the “tape and mud” phase, and then use the PLUS 3 for the finishing coats?

Any other suggestions?

[ss3964spd]

I've never seen the Plus 3 compound, Mike, my Depot doesn't carry it - at least not the last time I shopped there for compound.

Have not read anything about mixing in some wood glue, either, I suppose that's to make the compound somewhat stronger?

Another option is to use the bagged setting compound for your first two layers. Very strong and dries very fast. Then do the final with the green lid compound. I don't like the light weight, "easy sand" compounds - too soft. I also like the Strait-Flex brand tape for inside corners. Straight, strong, and easy.

[CharlestonMatt]

The finishers that did my rock used 45 min on the mesh taped joints, then green top all purpose for the rest after seams were bonded. I did have 2 can light repairs with large gaps that they used 20 min mud on, to prevent sagging I assume. I'm all about DIY, but sheetrock finishing is not something I'll take on... I'm having to force myself to stop fixing little imperfections as I go while painting already haha. Same with tile, I'd never finish a job. Besides I have too many irons in the fire right now to learn tile and sheetrock finishing. Also, not sure why, but cpvc is frowned on around here and usually gets removed from most homes during upgrades.

Your project is coming along nicely, I've enjoyed your thread so far[emoji106]

[RifRaf]

Dan and Matt, Thanks for the feedback and advice.

Since this is the first time I am doing this type of work (drywall taping and finishing), I stayed away from the Quick Set (... or Hot Mud) types of joints compounds because I do not work fast enough to use them. Many professional drywall finishers use Hot Mud for the tape joints so they can apply the top coats on the same day.

I decided to go with the PLUS 3 "All Purpose" Joint Compound and remixed this compound as shown on the products instructions. I then removed about 1 gallon of the PLUS 3 (from the 4.5 gallon bucket) and put in into a separate container and added/mixed just a little bit off Wood Glue (that was pre-diluted with water) into the 1 gallon portion of mud. Based on my research, the wood glue is supposed to give the joint compound more adhesive qualities when taping.

I have been watching many YouTube videos on drywall finishing and Jeff Thorman's (Home RenoVision DIY) "Beginner's Guide To Drywall Taping - A to Z" has been very helpful. I installed all of the drywall tape in my bathroom following Jeff's instructions and I did not have any bubbles or blisters in any of the tape. For the next couple of days I will be working on the top coats.


P.S. Matt, I have been following your "Glass Shower" thread and your project has been looking great!

[RifRaf]

After completing all of the drywall mud work, I began to sand the walls and ceiling for a smooth finish.

To help keep the sanding dust to a minimum, I hooked up my shop vac as shown in the photos below. By keeping the bathroom door slightly cracked open and running the shop vac, it created a negative pressure within the bathroom that sucked nearly all of the sanding dust outside.


With all the sanding competed, I applied two coats of primer and two coats of paint to the ceiling and bathroom walls.


Once the ceiling paint had dried, I began to install the shower light and ceiling fan. The LED shower light install was pretty easy… just had to cut a round hole in the ceiling above the shower for the light fixture, connect the wiring, and the spring-loaded clamps held the fixture in place.


Installing the ceiling fan requited a little more work since I decided to leave the existing plaster ceiling in place and install the drywall ceiling over it. This created a thicker ceiling, so I had to cut some relief grooves into the attic side of the plaster (red arrows) so the ceiling fan bracket and fan box would fit properly.


Once I had the upper fan bracket installed, the rest of the fan installation went very smoothly.


The only thing that I did not like about the Panasonic ceiling fan was the design of the vent damper/flapper. It was loose fitting with gaps around the outside perimeter… so I added an additional vent damper within the duct work.


I then ran the duct for the new ceiling fan to an exterior soffit.

[ss3964spd]

Noticed the same thing with my Panasonic fans, Mike, but mine are routed to roof caps with their own dampers so I just left the fan damper in place. Takes a moment for the fan to build some pressure to pop them both open.

[RifRaf]

Originally Posted by ss3964spd

Noticed the same thing with my Panasonic fans...

I probably would have been fine without adding the extra damper to the exhaust fan... but just like everything else I do, I tend to overthink these types of things .
Overall, the Panasonic fan seams to be a very good unit. It's very quiet when running and pulls a lot of air.

[RifRaf]

I decided to hold off on installing the Wedi shower curb until all of the other drywall and painting work was completed (for fear of damaging the curb). During the curb installation process, I made sure the curb was level (side to side) and had a 1 degree tilt in towards the shower pan before I affixed the final position.


After the curb mortar and sealant had set-up, I applied extra Wedi sealant to all seams and joints… especially around the seams and corners at the shower pan.


Once all of the Wedi Sealant dries, I will preform a shower pan flood test.
When the flood test is completed, I can begin the tile installation process for this bathroom!!!

[ss3964spd]

Originally Posted by Mike

...I tend to overthink these types of things.

I feel that particular pain.

Wutcha gonna put on that plywood floor as a tile backer?