long time lurker first time poster with question on shower.

[z284u2try]

I am building a traditional shower with preslope/liner/bed.

I am at the stage of just finishing my liner install.

Qustions.

It seems a standard to water test my liner. Should I water test the pan liner?

Do I use durarock or wonder board?

Do I leave space between the inside joints and the butts?

How do I seal the inside joints? will meshtape with redgard work?

Do I need a plastic mill or tar paper behind the durarock?
I plan on using red gard on the surface of the durarock for added protection.

How high off the pan liner should be the starting point of the durarock?

Please take it easy on me as this is my first shower and first post here.

Any help is good help.

[Richard Tunison]

Welcome James.

You will want to test you pan for sure. You will have to plug the drain with one of these.

http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/...0#.UQa83meoSLg

Dealers choice on the wall board. Make sure to follow the instructions on the board for proper installation method. Keep the wall board about 1/2in. above the liner.

Alkaline resistant mesh tape imbedded into thin set for the corners and joints.

When using a surface membrane you do not want anything behind the walls,, this creates a "moisture sandwich" which is to be avoided.

Did you notch your studs and set back your blocking to accomodate the thickness of the liner and corner folds?

[z284u2try]

Thank you for your response.

I will water test the pan tonight. I just have a question about the collar drain I used a clear caulk to seal the liner to the drain base then tourqed the collar down to snug.
This should create a waterproof seal at the drain/liner transition?

Do I also keep my wonderboard 1/2 an inch off my curb?

I am going with durarock over wonderboard.
The instructions will tell me how to abut the two ends?

What kind of thinset? This will be the same thinset that I will set my tile with?

I have not notched my studs yet or backing as I missed this part. I am going to attempt to go in with a wood chisel.

[Houston Remodeler]

James,

It helps if you number your questions as it saves on typing. We aren't paid by the word. Come to think of it we aren't paid at all

1- The caulk goes between the bottom of the liner and the flange part that's cemented into the ground already, and not the middle part that gets bolted over the liner.

2- 1/4" will work. We lay a scrap piece of wood, a paint stirrer to hold the CBU from poking a hole in the liner.

3- a slight gap yes

4- What kind of tile are you fixin' to use?

[z284u2try]

I will use number bullets to keep stuff organized.

1. I have it set up just as you have said

2. thanks for the paint stir trick I will keep a 1/4 off the pan and curb.

3. thank you

4. Ceramic I beleive I will need to double check this.

[Houston Remodeler]

4- for ceramic, white versabond will work nicely

[z284u2try]

Versabond thinset will work fine for the ceramic tile with red gard waterproofing?

[cx]

Yes, it will.

As always, please read and follow the manufacturer's installation instructions for each of the products you intend to use on the project. Preferably before you use the products, eh?

[z284u2try]

Did someone tell you I always read the directions after the fact? I do that alot

[z284u2try]

Question.

One of my shower walls is located on an exterior wall. This wall has insulation with a plastic vapor barrier over it.

1. When I red gard will this wall have any adverse effect from having this vapor barrier behind the hardieboard?

2. Should I red gard the ends/bottom of the hardie that will be imbedded in the final pan layer?

[z284u2try]

I am going to leave the plastic vap barrier on the exterior wall.

found this little bit of info. its close to what I am looking for but not it.

Many people make mistakes with Vapour Barriers.

The vapour barrier goes on the WARM side of the insulation in colder climates with heated interiors.

You should only have one membrane or you risk trapping moisture between two membranes that does not get out and can cause mold, rot and other problems.

If you are in a mostly hot humid climate with Air Conditioning cooling the interior then your warm side is on the outside side of the insulation.

[WendyHMN]

If you are going to add cement board with Redguard you just need to defeat the plastic barrier that's there now. The usual way is to make slits in the plastic with a utility knife.

[z284u2try]

I have made a mistake in my math.

My hardie board is a good inch away from my curb.
I think the answer I am looking for is to remeasure and re cut?

check out the picture.

[jgleason]

Hi James,
It is preferred that you use the attachment method to upload your images directly into the forum database. This helps ensure the size requirements are met (the forum will auto resize uploaded images) and ensures that the images will always be displayed in your post. (Images hotlinked from 3rd party sites can disappear over time leaving your posts without the visual context originally intended).

Note-if your image files are >2MB you will have to resize them first. Handy utility for doing that is here - http://imageresizer.codeplex.com/

[Houston Remodeler]

If your tiles are large enough to span the gap I'd leave the board alone. After mudding the curb it will largely dissappear