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12-24-2022, 11:36 AM
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#76
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Moderator emeritus
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Boerne, Texas
Posts: 97,852
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I've never used that mortar, Nelson. Did you check the bag for the manufacture date?
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12-24-2022, 12:46 PM
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#77
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2021
Location: Michigan
Posts: 47
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Yes, the date code is: E12J2206
E = factory?
12 = date of the month
J = October
2 = 2022
So, if I'm correct it was manufactured Oct, 12, 2022 and i purchased it Dec, 20, 2022. So, it should be good.
Since i never pulled a tile at 12 hrs, I'm not sure what the mortar looks and feels like. I did pull another tile i cracked after a few days off the wall and the mortar was rock hard. I had to use a small air hammer to help pull it off the wall.
I've been reading that mortar is 60% cured after 24 hours and takes about 28 days to reach full strength. I'll speculate that it will be cured to about 30% after 12 hrs. But i'd still like to know what the consistency of the mortar is after 12 hrs.
I'm wondering if the problem is lack of humidity. Since we are in Dec and we don't have a humidifier, its possible that the mortar dried out too much before curing appropriately after 12 hrs.
I'm going to mix another batch of the same mortar on that tile with a water content on the higher side of the recommended 6.5 to 7.5 qts per 50 lb bag and also continue to moisten the wall and back of the tile, wait 24 hrs and see if i can pull it off the wall. If it comes off, then i think i have bad mortar.
__________________
Nelson
Last edited by nelsonxn; 12-24-2022 at 02:07 PM.
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12-24-2022, 03:20 PM
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#78
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Moderator emeritus
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Boerne, Texas
Posts: 97,852
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nelson, Post 75
The mortar was still damp - as expected, felt chalky, rubbed off easy, and pieces were somewhat crumbly.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nelson
its possible that the mortar dried out too much before curing appropriately after 12 hrs.
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Don't think it can be both.
Again, I've never used that mortar, and I don't know just what was involved with pulling your shim, and I think I don't even know what size tile we're talking about here, so I'm not sure whether you have a problem or not.
And I don't know how to read MAPEI's date code.  I'll see if one of our MAPEI reps will verify that for us.
My opinion; worth price charged.
Last edited by cx; 12-24-2022 at 03:27 PM.
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12-24-2022, 04:12 PM
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#79
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Texas Tile Contractor
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Beaumont, Texas
Posts: 8,864
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I find that I can pull shims out after 6-8 hours with no problem. On floors, I generally pull them out the next day and have never had the issues you have....
__________________
They didn't want it good, they wanted it Wednesday.
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12-24-2022, 11:32 PM
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#80
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2021
Location: Michigan
Posts: 47
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well, i'm talking about a 14"x 5" rectangular piece, so not all that much surface area. Maybe i just pulled the shim a little too hard in the wrong direction.
I'll tile it again w/ mortar mixed w/ a little more water.
thanks,
__________________
Nelson
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12-27-2022, 09:01 AM
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#81
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Company Representative
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: North Texas
Posts: 1,052
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Sorry for being tardy to the party, those pesky holidays got in the way.
Below is an image to help decipher MAPEI batch codes.
I hope this helps!
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12-27-2022, 09:05 AM
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#82
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Company Representative
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: North Texas
Posts: 1,052
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Nelson, in regard to your concerns with the Ultraflex LFT not drying, this is a somewhat common occurrence around this time of the year.
I'm not sure what part of the country you are in, but colder temperatures cause mortars to cure and dry quite a bit slower. Chances are, if you had done this same exact thing in July, that tile would not have budged. Give the mortar it's full 24 hours before grouting or prying around it to remove spacers, excess mortar in the joints, and etc.
Please feel free to reach out if you need anything else!
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12-27-2022, 01:58 PM
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#83
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Moderator emeritus
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Boerne, Texas
Posts: 97,852
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Holden
I'm not sure what part of the country you are in, but colder temperatures cause mortars to cure and dry quite a bit slower.
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Which is why, Nelson, we recommend all our visitors put a geographical location into their User Profiles. Helpful in answering all sorts of questions.
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02-19-2023, 04:38 PM
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#84
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2021
Location: Michigan
Posts: 47
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Questions on silicon color and base molding
Well, I'm almost done with the master bath!
just a few questions... - I'm about to silicone the edge where the white jacuzzi touches the simulated grey marble tile shower wall. Is it normal or proper to use white silicone?
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- Does anyone have experience with using White PVC Base Moulding as apposed to primed pine?
thanks
__________________
Nelson
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02-20-2023, 08:40 AM
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#85
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Moderator
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Fairfax, Va
Posts: 5,818
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No experience with PVC base, Nelson, but have used PVC for crown molding in both of the showers I recent did. It's pretty easy to work with but don't know about its impact resistance in a baseboard application.
__________________
Dan
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------
If I recall correctly my memory is excellent, but my ability to access it is intermittent.
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02-20-2023, 10:42 AM
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#86
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...unrepentant, detail focused, over-analyzer.
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Virginia
Posts: 3,211
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Nelson, I’ve used the 3-1/4 PVC base on a couple projects. Bit bending so I recommend running a bead of adhesive (liquid nails) on tbe backside about 3/8 from top edge in addition to nailing. Power nailer makes job much simpler. I use a 18 gauge nailer for installing it to minimize the divot but any finish nail will work.
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02-20-2023, 03:49 PM
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#87
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2021
Location: Michigan
Posts: 47
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Ok, thanks.
I know this sounds like a stupid question... but...
What about the silicon? is it better to use white silicon on the edges of a white tub or jacuzzi no matter the color of the wall?
__________________
Nelson
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02-21-2023, 07:36 AM
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#88
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...unrepentant, detail focused, over-analyzer.
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Virginia
Posts: 3,211
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That’s your choice really. I tend to use a polyurethane sealant versus silicon. I find it hold up better and it’s paintable. I prefer Sikaflex All Purpose Sealant Polyurethane, typically available in grey or white at the big box stores. Takes a bit longer to set than silicon but doesn’t have a much schrinkage.
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