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Unread 07-13-2006, 09:40 PM   #16
Jean G
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Oatey dam corners

Steve,
I bought the Oatey pan liner from Lowes and could not find any dam corners. I emailed the Oatey tech service folks. They suggested some suppliers in my area (South Carolina) but none of them had the corners.

When I called Oatey back they agreed to send me the corners as a sample. I had them within 3 days and I have the benefit of knowing they will work with the Oatey liner.

You can contact them by googling Oatey. (For some reason the post would not go through when I typed the complete url.)
Good luck.
Jean
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Unread 07-13-2006, 09:52 PM   #17
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Thanks CX. I think I will try chipping out just enough to try the underneath bolt method first. If that attempt fails, I will bust it all out. How will I know if the bolt from underneath is successful? Will a simple test to see if the pan leaks be the tell tale?

But something is very unusual about the original shower: It appears that there was no preslope and that the drain was set in concrete. The reason I believe this to be the case is after I got the old pan out, I went to try to bust out what I thought was the preslope, but it was concrete with rocks as aggregate (if that is the correct term). You can see around the perimeter of the lower floor for the shower pan, indentions where they put 2x4s to form the walls of the main slab. This floor is not level and I have made attempt to level it by busting out the higher spots and it looks like I was trying to do so on the street with all the rocks in it. Anyway, my point is that the drain is recessed down into this concrete and appears to be set pretty solid in place with concrete underneath the entire lower flange....does this seem odd?
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Unread 07-14-2006, 05:36 AM   #18
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No, not odd. Many slab-on-grade showers were built in a recessed portion of the slab and often without liners.
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Unread 07-14-2006, 07:12 AM   #19
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What Bob said.

I recess all my slabs for showers in new construction. But the drain is left loose in a "box out" for later installation so it can be centered and set at the proper height for the pre-slope and pan.

Pouring anything into a SOG and trying to have it end up accurately in place is always a challenge. Concrete finishers are not generally schooled in finesse and precision, shall we say?

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 07-14-2006, 07:36 AM   #20
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I guess my point is that it isn't the recessed part that surprises me, but the fact that the lower flange appears to have been set in place when the slab was poured because the concrete height is level with the top of the lower flange
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Unread 07-14-2006, 01:33 PM   #21
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Well, I appreciate the lack of confidence in my ideas...it pushed me to remove it all. After a few hours of using my air chisel, I gave up and rented the chisel hammer from a rental store. That sped it up. I had to bust through almost 8 inches of concrete to to get to dirt. All the plumbing was in the concrete so it took some gentle touch around the drain pipe (horizontal pipe)....which a DID break early into the job....but the break was just past the P-trap and I was going to have to cut it there anyway.

So my next question is this: When I install the new drain, at what point of level with the slab do I want the lower flange to be? Does it need to be flush or just below and filled to level with the pre-slope?
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Unread 07-14-2006, 02:01 PM   #22
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This is a good thing.

You want the bottom of the bottom portion of the drain to be 3/8ths to 1/2-inch above the top of the slab, Steve. And level. Very level.

That height's not terribly critical, but that gives you 5/8ths to 3/4-inch of mud at the thinnest point of your pre-slope, and that's about as thin as it's comfortable to work with deck mud. Can be thinner, but there's no reason for it to be in your situation unless your height at the outside edge of the shower floor is gettin' real critical, which I suspect it's not.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 07-14-2006, 08:54 PM   #23
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Great...thanks. I did just that this evening. I got all the pipe glued back up and the drain is spot on level. I filled in the hole with some quickcrete and will start the preslope tomorrow if it is good and dry.

Next questions:

1. When I put up a vapor barrier plastic behind the CBU, does it go over (on top of) the pan or behind it?

2. As for CBU, wonderboard or hardi?
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Unread 07-16-2006, 06:10 PM   #24
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Well, I had to bust out the new concrete because there was something wrong with the batch I think. It never got hard. I was able to use a chisel and scrape most of it out. Not sure what was wrong with it. Anyway, today I put a new batch in and it is doing much better now. I hope to do the preslope tomorrow.

I read somewhere to use silicone caulk to adhere the plastic protection sheet to the studs behind the CBU. Is this the correct method or will staples be ok? I want to do it right, but don't want to create more work for myself if it is not needed.

I also read that you should put thin-set behind the CBU at the bottom where it overlaps the pan (in the area not screwed in). Is this neccessary?

Just want some clarification on these issues before I jump in.

Thanks.
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Unread 07-16-2006, 07:46 PM   #25
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I think the thinking for the staples is to cover them with the silicone.I wouldn't worry about the thinset, it's not gona stickto the shower pan, and will only serve to hold out the cbu that much farther.
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Unread 07-16-2006, 08:34 PM   #26
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Minimum staples necessary to hold the poly is fine. Takes very few to do the job.

I dissagree with my friend Stoner on the thinset, though. Putting dollops of thinset on the back of the bottom of the CBU and just mashing it flat when installing the board will make supports for the mud to force the bottom of the board against when the final mud bed is placed. I think it a good eye-dee to do that. Otherwise, if there is a gap back there (there should be some) the mud can bend the bottom of the board back against the blocking. Or the board can end up not being against anything and be able to flex if kicked after the tile is installed.

It's easy, it's cheap, I'd do it.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 07-16-2006, 09:12 PM   #27
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Thanks again guys....advice taken and will be a great help....update coming tomorrow hopefully. I guess I need to start some pictures as well.
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Unread 07-17-2006, 03:43 PM   #28
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Pre-slope is in and seems to be just right. What is the dry time for the mud before I can start working on the pan?
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Unread 07-17-2006, 04:45 PM   #29
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You really don't want it to dry, you want it to cure. While it's still damp, cover it with the left-over poly. As soon as it's firm enough to walk/kneel on, you can do the pan liner. That'll help keep it from drying too fast, also. This is a good thing.

Tomorrow morning won't be too soon to get on it.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 07-17-2006, 05:11 PM   #30
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Hey LOCAL DUDE

You could have gotten the Kerdi from Master Tile off of Interstate 45 here in Houston..the one off of Hempstead will not sell to no contractors...Its more expensive than ordering it but you can have it today..if they have it in stock

James

I have done lots of Kerdi Showers ....there GREAT
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