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Unread 01-05-2019, 09:51 AM   #226
ss3964spd
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Shower Pan flood test

Here we go.....
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Unread 01-07-2019, 08:22 AM   #227
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Trowels and Mortar

Strong possibility that I'll finally be able to start laying some tile this weekend on the main floor area, approximately 10'X7'. The floor tile will be 12X24 porcelains, 3/8" thick, rectified, and pretty flat - though not completely flat (face up on my granite counter top there's perhaps 1/32nd gap in the center, but definitely less than 1/16th).

Intended layout is a herring bone pattern. Was hoping to use 1/16th grout lines but will probably go with 1/8". The substrate is Ditra Heat, pre-filled using Versabond, and the floor is very flat. A tile leveling system will be used, am leaning towards Spin Doctor. Back buttering is a given.

Given the above, will a 3/8 X 3/8 slant notch trowel size do the trick, or is that just asking for trouble? The 3/8 X 3/8 is preferred since I will need to match the height of the shower floor mosaic's with the main floor, and those mosaics will be set with a 1/4 X 1/4 notch trowel, so that first row or two of mosaics will have to be built up just a bit to match heights.

And finally, mortar. Should I be using a LFT type? If so, which one by Custom would you lean towards (prefer Custom because Depot is not even 5 minutes away)? If not Custom I'm sure the tile shop I'm getting the tile from will be happy to sell me whatever high(er) end brand they stock.
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Unread 01-07-2019, 08:36 AM   #228
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Hi Dan, I would use a 1/2 x 1/2 trowel for the tiles. You can use Versabond LFT. Also I would go with an 1/8" grout line not 1/16".
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Unread 01-07-2019, 10:39 AM   #229
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Thanks for the feedback Mike.

I was all set to use the 1/2 X 1/2 trowel - right up until I read an old thread here about trowel sizes for LFT. Slant notch, U notch, Euro notch. The logic behind the slant/U/Euro makes sense to me - not as much fighting to get the peaks to collapse and less chance of trapping air. Anything that helps a novice achieve success seems like a good idea.

But there's always a caveat, right? Lot's of "ifs". If the tile is (reasonably) flat, if the floor is flat, etc-etc...
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Unread 01-08-2019, 08:25 AM   #230
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The time savings alone will be worth the price. No wet saw set up time, no walking down stairs and outside, no minutes spent grinding through a tile, or the walk back. Set a tile on the bed, line it up, score it, snap it, 20 seconds.
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Unread 01-08-2019, 10:13 PM   #231
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Interesting... I was going to Shell out $350 for a wet saw tent. This might be a better option. Let me know how it works out for you.

What model did you pick up out of curiosity? 24? Push or pull?

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Unread 01-08-2019, 10:59 PM   #232
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Wet saw outside and this inside is the perfect setup. Saves a lot of leg work.
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Unread 01-09-2019, 08:40 AM   #233
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Ali, that's Sigma's 26" 3B4, a pull cutter.

During the course of trying to chose tile I've accumulated a few 12X24 samples, and sliced up one of them just to see how it works. From my very limited time with it I think I'd probably prefer a PUSH cutter but I'm just not going to put enough miles on this thing to really matter.

There is a tile snapper thread over in the Pros Hangout - worth the read if you're considering, uh, snapping one up (sorry).

That's the plan, Wolfgang, the 3B4 inside and my stupidly loud MK outside. Looking forward to giving the new blade a, um, spin (can't help myself).
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Unread 01-09-2019, 09:58 PM   #234
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I'll check it out Dan, I'm still on the fence on tent vs cutter. Both have their advantages and disadvantages.

When's the tile going up?

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Unread 01-10-2019, 07:15 AM   #235
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Had a slight misunderstanding with my tile supplier, my fault, so they won't have the floor tile until mid day tomorrow. If I can get there before 5, and if my recent tool order shows up, then I hope to start laying floor tile this weekend. But it also rather depends on if I'm going to get all OCD over the thinset mortar shrinkage on the Ditra Heat mat.

Cabinets are being delivered today.
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Unread 01-17-2019, 09:44 AM   #236
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OCD took over and I burned and skimmed another coat of mortar onto the Ditra. Also finished water proofing in the niche, and the end and inner bottom corner of the knee wall, and finally mortared the flap of membrane (which was for the leak test) onto the Ditra. I'll have go over the whole floor with the rubbing block to remove the tiny ridges left by the edge of the trowel from the skim coat but that'll take only a short time.

I'm ready to start laying floor tile.
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Unread 01-17-2019, 10:39 AM   #237
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Though they look nice the workmanship of the "semi custom" cabinets was a disappointment.

These are inset style, and ALL the drawers and doors were proud of the face frames by between 1/8 and 1/4 of an inch. No simple way to adjust the drawer slides for that; had to remove the mounting screws (only one per slide, 16 slides in total), move them rearward, reattach. The inboard vertical support, to which the front of the slides are attached (4 drawers per cab) was attached with a small staple top and bottom, they did not extend to the bottom of the cabinet floor, and one of them wasn't even attached at the bottom at all, just hanging on by that one staple at the top. Pathetic.

Thankfully the door hinges had enough adjustment range. Got all that ironed out, then had to do the usual "field adjustments" of squaring up the drawers and doors and getting even gaps. Thankfully the slides do have enough adjustments to take care of that.

Finally, had to deal with the feet. These cabinets were ordered without a toe kick. The floor of the cabinet(s) is higher than the bottom edge of the box, resulting in a 1" recess underneath. A reasonable person might think that when a cabinet is ordered with feet, instead of a toe kick, that the builders would provide blocking for the feet, and the hardware with which to attach them.

Yeah, no.

The feet are basically square, and are drilled for a center bolt. Of course the hole isn't centered, in any of the 8, and even if they were, and if there was blocking in the corners, a center bolt wouldn't work because the outboard bottom drawer slide sits on the floor of cabinet, right where the bolt would come through.

Had to make my own blocks. No true 1" material at Depot but did find some 5/4" pine. Planed that down and cut them up. Glued the feet to them, and once that sets will run screws into them. Then will glue/screw those assemblies to the bottom, screwing in from the top. The bottoms of the cabinet(s) only 1/2", not enough meat to hold a screw, and don't want the tips poking into the interior.

OK, venting is over. Please feel free to forward your bills for this session.
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Unread 01-17-2019, 10:39 AM   #238
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To hell with the ridges, let's see some tile!

That sucks that you had issues with the cabinets. Who is the manufacturer just out of curiosity? No one should have to do that much work to an already finished product.

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Unread 01-17-2019, 10:51 AM   #239
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Nice planer, that!

If you don't mind me asking, how much did the custom cabinetry cost in total? Any way they'll give you a discount based on the extra challenges?
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Unread 01-17-2019, 11:22 AM   #240
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I'm hoping to slap some down but we do have a family member staying with us all weekend so, well, we'll see.

I had almost no luck finding any asymmetrical cabinets in the size I wanted so the cabinetry was bought through my designer. The main vanities are 45" long, 21" deep, and asymmetrical (sink placement is not centered, allowing for a full height drawer stack with decent sized drawers). I specified that I did not want a 30" and 15" cabinet simply joined together - had to be a single unit. There's also a 29" long "boot box", but specified with a deep, wide drawer, which will be hung between the two vanities, below the window, and work well as a bench of sorts.

Because of the configuration "semi-custom" was a must. The beaded, inset style and the finish we went with bumped the cost to just over 5.5K. "DuraSupreme" is the manufacturer. She offered another company, who does truly custom cabinets, but they were 30% more.

That planer has come in real handy, Wolfgang, especially when I did the family room. There's a ton of cherry wood work in there. lots of board feet for an amateur like me.
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