How to lay Schluter Schiene

[jkk9]

I'm laying tiles in front of my basment walkout door. I'd like to use Schluter's Schiene around the perimeter and run carpet up to the trim.

My dilemma is how to lay an 8 foot section of this trim at one time, which of course would rquire laying down 8' course of mortar, laying the 8' trim and then laying down the tiles. That's a long stretch to work with. Is there a more practical way, other than cutting the trim into shorter strips (and dealing then with the mismatched ends) ?

[reefone]

i would lay the tile. then install the last row that the schluter will go under all at one time. then cut the trim to fit and use the butt end of your hammer to knock the trim under the tile.

[Tool Guy - Kg]

Jim,

Use a mortar with a long pot life and you'll be able to set that last row of 8 tiles without being rushed. Laticrete 255 and 4XLT both have a pot life of 4 hours.

[jkk9]

Originally Posted by Tool Guy - Kg

Use a mortar with a long pot life and you'll be able to set that last row of 8 tiles without being rushed. Laticrete 255 and 4XLT both have a pot life of 4 hours.

I'm using Custom's Marble/Granite which does give 3-4 hours.

I need to do 2 sides of a 3 x 9 foot section. Since the trim needs to go under the 2 out sides of the corner tile, I need to:
1) wet the scarified concrete,
2) burn mortar into the full 12' of concrete,
3) spread/comb mortar onto the 12'
4) place the 12' of trim into the mortar
4) burn mortar onto and then place each 18" tile.

Being a rookie, I'm concerned about the mortar skinning over before I get all the tiles down.

[Tool Guy - Kg]

Jim, you don't need to complete each of your steps 100% before moving to the next step. Work your steps two tiles at a time and move on.

Complete a dry layout ahead of time. Accurately mark the floor with guide lines/layout lines. The marks will help you confidently lay your tiles two at a time, before moving onto the next two.

By the way, I hope by "wetting" the concrete you actually mean dampening the concrete.

[jkk9]

In order to lay an 8' section of trim onto mortar, I have to lay out 8' of mortar. Actually, since the corner piece needs trim on 2 edges, I really have to lay out 12 feet. (I have done the dry layout.)

From Herr Scluter's website: [pertinent area in bold]

1.Select Schluter-SCHIENE according to tile thickness.
2.Using a notched trowel, apply thin-set mortar to the area where the profile is to be placed.
3.Press the perforated anchoring leg of the profile into the mortar and align.
4.Trowel additional thin-set mortar over the perforated anchoring leg to ensure full coverage and support of the tile edges.
5.Solidly embed the tiles so that the tiled surface is flush with the top of the profile; the profile should not be higher than the tiled surface, but rather up to approx. 1/32" (1 mm) lower.
...

Is there any way to not have to lay out 12' of mortar?

Thanks!!

[jkk9]

Originally Posted by Tool Guy - Kg

By the way, I hope by "wetting" the concrete you actually mean dampening the concrete.

Yes, just dampening, although this crete is thirsty and it might be better to wet it as I fear it is sucking the water out of the mortar.

[Tool Guy - Kg]

If you're asking for alternatives to Schluter's instructions, but rejecting alternatives...something has to give. If you want to follow their directions to the letter, I suppose you could simply apply new mortar periodically as it skins over as you get to the next section. Or you could pre-mark your layout and work in sections as I've suggested, or slide the trim in after you've got all the tile in like Jim suggested.

Ultimately, it comes down to this: the metal profile leg under the tile needs to be completely embedded in mortar to give it (and the tile edge above it) support. Getting to that point is more important than how you get to that point.

[jkk9]

Originally Posted by Tool Guy - Kg

If you're asking for alternatives to Schluter's instructions, but rejecting alternatives...something has to give. If you want to follow their directions to the letter, I suppose you could simply apply new mortar periodically as it skins over as you get to the next section. Or you could pre-mark your layout and work in sections as I've suggested, or slide the trim in after you've got all the tile in like Jim suggested.

Ok, I guess I'm a little slow here. I don't mean to be rejecting alternatives. I'm just trying to understand how to 'execute' the alternative before I mix mortar. I'm not sure how to embed the 2nd section (2-tile length) in mortar, other than lifting it a bit off the concrete and smearing mortar underneath it.

Thanks.

[cx]

Jim, I think the real answer to your quandary is to simply prepare your work area and self such that you can install the eight-foot section of trim per manufacturer's instructions and lay all the tiles that abut that trim piece.

Some layout lines on your substrate, the trim piece pre-cut, the tiles stacked within reach, and a small batch of thinset mortar at hand, along with bucket of clean water and sponge and you aughta be able to set that row exactly the way it should be done.

You can be prepared to continue setting more tile after that or you can just stop there and let those tiles set up while you congratulate yourownself for having just done what needed done.

My opinion; worth price charged.

[jkk9]

That's just about what we did, except we had to do 12' since there are 2 exposed sides and that corner tile needed trim under 2 sides. My 2 sons helped with burning backsides and such. The dry layout was extremely valuable. I expected some difficulty with the trim but the process went smoothly. Now that we know how to use the trim, it's back to finishing the kitchen project and creating the kitchen/family room transition.

Thanks for the info!