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Unread 04-29-2021, 09:39 AM   #16
fabian55
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Hello, I have a bit of a technical question and not sure of this will create problems with water flow.

I will be installing a linear drain, as you know, the linear drain has a 2in pipe which connect to the 2 inch shower drain with a Rubber coupling. Since this will be under the mortar, I'm trying to avoid any possible leak in the future, just not to confident in water flowing thru and having space between those 2 pipes inside the Rubber coupling, so I thought this might help.

I would put a coupling from the linear drain reducing the size to 11/2, that way the linear drain goes into the 2in coupling and the 11/2 portion goes into the 2in drain pipe and add the rubber coupling as well, this would create a flow from linear drain directly into the shower drain without any opening or joints per say.


My only concern is will this create a water flow problem? The water is draining into a 2in linear drain pipe and into a 2in shower drain, just not sure if that 11/2 potion which would be about 4 inches down would cause issues.

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Unread 04-29-2021, 12:11 PM   #17
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Fabian, the use of a correct rubber coupling to connect your 2" drain to a 2" riser pipe is a perfectly acceptable method of drain plumbing and will not result in a problem. Your plan to reduce the drain to 1 1/2" could, on the other hand, result in drain issues in future. Not guaranteed to cause an issue, but I surely wouldn't do it.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 04-29-2021, 12:38 PM   #18
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In the USA, it wouldn't pass an inspection if you went from 2" - 1-1/2" - 2" again...some places allow a 1-1/2" drain, but I'm not aware of any codes in the USA that allow it except for a tub/shower.

The hassle with using a coupler like that in a slab is that you can't tighten the clamps under the drain! So, what will work, is to use the coupler on the drain, with a riser, and then glue it in place when setting the drain. You only get one chance to do it right, though, and dry fitting PVC into a fitting, because the fitting it a tapered, interference fit that only accepts the pipe when the cement is on it that melts the plastic to allow it, can be intimidating...measure carefully. YOu only have maybe 10-15 seconds to move it around before it becomes fixed.

Personally, I prefer to use a shielded coupler. Haven't looked recently, but Schluter used to supply a rubber sleeve with clamps on each end...that coupler isn't supposed to be used except where it can be buried AND both ends are supported...that MIGHT happen on a slab, but won't happen in wood framing. The banded coupler forces the pipes to be in alignment.
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Unread 04-29-2021, 05:54 PM   #19
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Thank You to both for the reply..In theory, my idea seemed fine, but was afraid of any water flow issue since the linear drain has 2in opening and then water flowing thru a 11/2. I think the shielded coupler might be better then just the standard rubber coupling as I see it has like a lip on the inside to at least create some sort of water tightness between pipes where they meet..I just might have to break the slab just a little bit around the riser pipe since I only have 1in now sticking up, might need a bit more for the coupling to enter into and create a tight hold .Thanks Again..
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Unread 05-03-2021, 05:25 PM   #20
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Good Day, ran into a bit of a predicament and have 2 option as to which way to move forward, not sure which would be best.

Option 1: I want to add a linear drain. I removed the unneeded curb, so I have 5 1/2" depth inside the shower. The riser pipe sticks up 1", the drain is 2.9" height, which give me a total of 3.9" plus 1/2" for the slopes, puts me at around 4.5" needed of Mortar mix since the linear drain does not go into the riser pipe and instead couples with it. I have read labels on Mortar mix and most of them say up to 2" mortar thickness. I found Mapei 4-to-1 Mud Bed Mix which states up to 3" thick, so how do I about about the extra inches I need? Or do I do 1 layer, let it dry and add an additional layer? So I would have 4.5" mortar bed plus 1/2" tiles and thin set would be 5", with the inside height is 5 1/2" giving me a 1/2 "curb" per say.

Option 2 is simply to use a Kerdi Bonding drain which is 2.2" in height, goes into the riser pipe so in essence would be 2.2" plus the 1/2" for the slope, would 2.7", so I can use the Mapei 4-1 Mud Bed. In this option, I would have to use standard drain with mosaic tiles on the floor and not the larger format tiles.

I would prefer option 1 but not sure if the way I described it works or what type of premade mortar mix can be used for that thickness.

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Unread 05-04-2021, 09:11 AM   #21
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Okay, so I think I found the answer. There is no maximum per say on the deck mud, only a minimum, just needs to be mixed correctly and possibly add an aggregate to make it stronger..Seems I can go with option 1, the linear drain..
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Unread 05-05-2021, 10:00 AM   #22
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Only posting this update incase any other person runs into the same issue.

After 2 days of research due to the 1" riser pipe on slab, plus the new drain height on bonded drain, maximum Mortar bed before it needs to be reinforced, type of mortar mix etc etc, its seems that the best option and to keep it as simply as possible would be to cut a 6'in diameter and 3 inches deep around the riser pipe and cut the pipe down a few inches, this would allow me to add the drain and keep the mortar bed at around 1 3/4 to 2 in...
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Unread 05-05-2021, 02:36 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fabian
...due to the 1" riser pipe on slab, plus the new drain height...
Surely you do not have a 1" drain riser?

In that small, constrained area you can make that deck mud/dry/pack/mortar bed as thick as you need it to be if you pack it well on the way up.

See my warranty information below.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 05-05-2021, 05:13 PM   #24
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Hey CX, 1" meaning the pipe length above the slab, its a 2" round pipe. Well its good to know that in that small area, I can go above the 2" thickness in size for the bed, Thank You, it will have me a lot of hand chiseling...
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Unread 05-12-2021, 03:35 PM   #25
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Good Day, finally getting to the phase of putting in the Mud Floor. The Linear drain slides into the 2in drain pipe and fits perfect, in this case, Im assuming no rubber coupling is needed since the water drains directly into the pipe? Do I put PVC bonding glue or something similar just to bond them together?

Also, not sure if a Moderator can possible change the thread name to 'Fabians Bath Remodel" or something similar, this thread was the first question I asked and continued it so everything stays in one place.

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Unread 05-12-2021, 08:42 PM   #26
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WIthout a watertight seal between the linear drain and the drain pipe, if there's a backup in the drain, it will just leak out underneath. Plus, without a tight seal, it can leak sewer gasses. Now, the drain should stop them, but still not code compliant. So, no, you can't just put the drain in there like into a funnel.

What diameter is the pvc pipe coming up? Sounds like it's 3". You may need to cut it off lower, install a 3-2" adapter, a short riser, and then use the rubber connector...hassle is, you're going to need to make that connection before your mudbed so you have access.
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Unread 05-13-2021, 07:55 AM   #27
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Thanks Jadnashua, the riser pipe is 2" in diameter and sticks up about 1.25" from the slab, so I should probably just trim the pipe down about 1/2" and not put the linear drain all the way in and add a rubber coupling since I now have space between pipe and drain?

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Unread 05-13-2021, 03:34 PM   #28
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Does the rubber coupling they include have two different ID's to accommodate the OD of the drain and the PVC? Those rubber couplings often have a center stop in them, and expect to have the respective ends pushed in. You need enough room for the clamp to fit cleanly over the section of pipe it must seal to. It's been awhile since I saw one.

Is the piece in the slab a hub? That may be why the drain slides inside. IF so, you can't cut that off.

If you haven't watched it, here's a Schluter video that shows how the drain gets installed when you do not have access below...
https://youtu.be/qH2R90qzJbA
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Unread 05-14-2021, 08:39 AM   #29
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Thanks jadnashua, the pipe coming up from the Slab is a no hub, so based on the video you provided, I would use that rubber coupling without the extra end piece since its no hub. Thank You
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Unread 05-26-2021, 08:23 AM   #30
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Good Day, finally had some time to continue the work. While mixing the Floor Mud, I burnt my Drill " did not know I needed a special Drill for mixing since you needs lots of Tork"

My question is, I had 3 buckets with the Floor Mud and a small one with Thinset ready to be mixed, the first one is when the Drill burned so I threw that mud away, the other 2 and the thinset I did not add water and are still in the bucket covered with a nylon bag. Will the Floor Mud and thinset go bad since they are out of the bag and exposed to air even though they are covered? I don't want to mix, set floor and then cracks.

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