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Old 10-07-2004, 04:42 PM   #16
JTG
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Just believe us all ,you will be sorry if you don't pull the toilet.
1. it will look like (
2. sure as ( it will break and the footprint of the new one won't match the old one.
3. The are no holes that need to be drilled thru the toilet to set the toilet. If you don't have a flange on it now and it does have bolts that screws into the floor put them back in when you set the tile and cut around or purchase a brass flange ring at the hardware store and screw it down around the drain and you will have the ability to use standard flange bolts which will slide into the brass ring.
No (
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Old 10-07-2004, 06:01 PM   #17
pcarnoldjr
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Ah Ha! It just takes a while to penetrate, guys. I am thoroughly convinced. Thanks for bearing with me. Now, how about a blade recommendation for the porcelain tile?
Charlie
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Old 10-07-2004, 06:06 PM   #18
Mike2
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Jason, git in here now...tell friend Charlie all about the MK Hot Dog blade.
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Old 10-07-2004, 06:26 PM   #19
Davy
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Is It Too Late To Bid On The Combo Pack? I'll Go 50 Bucks. :d
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Old 10-07-2004, 08:17 PM   #20
Granny2HWBLGJJ
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hey davy.......wait up

I'll go 55 on the combo if you git done fast ...nananana(juss kiddin) ..I just wanted to give davy a hard time sorry ..good luck pc
Granny Laura
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Old 10-07-2004, 10:02 PM   #21
LonnythePlumber
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Extenders Phew!

A toilet needs to sit on moisture resistant flooring. Condensation from the toilet can rot out the unprotected flooring and can contaminate the edges of the underlayment and spread out. Flange extenders must work in some cases but I always put the flange on top of the finished floor like it is supposed to. When you tile up to the edge your exposed edges are greedy to suck in moisture and spread. Wax is not meant to be strong enough to resist the force of water. Double or thick waxes can last for awhile but we don't usually replace them until we notice damage.
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