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Unread 10-05-2002, 04:39 PM   #1
stuart33
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Unhappy

I built a bench inside a wodd framed shower. I built it out of wood framing and fastened it to the shower framing. I then put in a pre slope in preparation for a CPE liner.

I am planning on installing the liner over the bench and seaming it to the liner on the floor using CPE solvent. I put a pre slop on the horizontal surface of the bench also.

I plan on installing a mud bed over the top of the liner and bench and a use a peice of hardibacker on the vertical surface of the bench on top of the liner.

I saw a site from here saying the bench should be constrcuted INSIDE the liner rather than OUTSIDE like I am doing. Doe anyone have nay advice or experience with shower benches like this?

I suppose it isnt too late too remove the bench and install more preslope and then install the liner first and then reinstall the seat. Not sure if it is required though?
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Unread 10-05-2002, 04:48 PM   #2
John Bridge
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Hi Stuart, Welcome aboard.

I'm the guy who advocates building the masonry bench inside the shower pan, but there are other ways of doing things.

I would not use the CPE liner over the bench itself. There are better materials for that, including Laticrete 9235. Many of the others are much more experienced than I am in that department. Let's wait for someone to come along.

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Unread 10-05-2002, 04:52 PM   #3
stuart33
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Much thanks John Sound like I may not have to start ripping out my bench yet. I have had a tile setter look at it and he thoguht going over the bench with another piece of liner would work. So I am a little confused now.

Thanks for your response though, I will hope for more advice. last thing I want is a leaky shower!!!

Stu
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Unread 10-05-2002, 05:13 PM   #4
John Bridge
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There WILL be people stopping in to help you. The problem with using the CPE liner is that there's no way to attach anything to it without making holes in it. Hang tight.
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Unread 10-05-2002, 09:21 PM   #5
Bud Cline
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Can you get us a photo or two?

I would think using cement board then a liquid (brush on) waterproof membrane would be the easiest way to go. Like John says Laticrete 9235 is a great product. Another Laticrete product for this purpose would be "Watertight Floor 'N' Wall, also a liquid membrane.
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Unread 10-05-2002, 09:45 PM   #6
stuart33
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I have a picture, how to get it to you guys I dont know?

I was going to run the CPE on the bench up the walls, I will have to put a few screw holes in the vertical part againts the vertical on the bench but they will be tight and the surface is vertical. Not enough?

witht the Laticrete would I apply it directly to the bench as shown?

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Unread 10-05-2002, 09:56 PM   #7
Bud Cline
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If you can get your picture on the Internet you can get it here. Or if you can email it to John, he can get it here.

Let's see if I understand this thing your doing.

You have the CPE pan liner in place (or will have) then your going to build a wooden bench on top of the pan liner, and then you will add more CPE to cover the bench?
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Unread 10-05-2002, 09:57 PM   #8
stuart33
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Another idea

What do you guys think of installing the CPE then the cement board then the laticrete. Wouldnt the Laticrete cure the ills from any screw holes in the cement board?

Not on the "horizontal" bench surface i was going to put a mud bed over the CPE liner then tile....so no holes would exist in that part only on the vertical.

Wish I could get you guys a picture somehow??

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Unread 10-05-2002, 09:59 PM   #9
stuart33
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Bud,

no not exactly the liner is not yet installed only the pre slope. What is Johns email address i will mail the picture....

ty

Stu
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Unread 10-05-2002, 10:13 PM   #10
Bud Cline
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Unread 10-06-2002, 06:52 AM   #11
John Bridge
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Morning guys,

This arrived sometime after midnight. Sorry I didn't wait up for it.

Here you go, Stu.

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Unread 10-06-2002, 10:03 AM   #12
Bud Cline
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Well OK, That's an easy one and you've already hit on the solution in your earlier post.

CPE, wallboard, liquid waterproofing.

In this case the less expensive Laticrete "Watertight Floor n' Wall" would work in place of the more expensive 9235 product. And it's purdier too.

What the heck is that on top of the bench?
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Unread 10-06-2002, 10:50 AM   #13
stuart33
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Exclamation still thinking......but your helping

Bud,

Well, first of all, please forgive my typing in the earlier emails. You'd think my fingers were covered in "mud" while I was at the keyboard..!

And John thanks for help with the picture.

Ok well, I am a bit embarrassed now, but that is a "pre slope" on top of the bench. It's for the CPE liner I was going to place over it. After your comment, I am thinking that I should remove that bit of mortar off the top of the bench.

Then, I am thinking, I Install the liner in the base of the shower only. Then install the hardibacker on the vertical suface using screws to hold the top edge (above the CPE liner edge) and rely on the mud base to secure the bottom edge.

Next install a piece on the horizontal surface of the bench directly on the wood framed bench.

Next, (after installing the rest of the hardibacker on the walls) apply the troweled on membrane over the horizontal bench surface and up the wall some, as well as down the vertical surface of the bench.

I would have about 8 inches of overlap with the CPE liner under the vertical surface hardibacker and the membrane coming down over the vertical surface of the hardibacker.

Does this make sense or is it too confusing to get through in the first place!!

In any event, much thanks for your help so far.

Stu
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Unread 10-06-2002, 11:16 AM   #14
davem
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I think you still want a slope on your bench top even though it will have a trowel on membrane. I think it can be troweled onto your existing preslope. Wait to see what the pro's think.
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Unread 10-06-2002, 11:29 AM   #15
Bud Cline
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The bench top mud should be able to stay providing there is no flex what-so-ever in the bench structure when used.

The liquid membrane can be applied over all the wallboard but be sure to use the memebrane fabric at all junctures. Lately this fabric has been coming in nothing but folded mats (used to be available in rolls), cut the matts into 6" strips and fold the 6" into all junctures, 3" one way and 3" the other.

You would first mop on, paint, roll, the liquid membrane then immediately immerse the fabric and smooth it out, I use a 4" paint brush and a 6" broadknife to accomplish this. Allow the membrane to cure/dry thenpaint it again.

Pay particular attention to the corners and lap all joints in the facbric.

I think your last proposal for installation (wallboard) is fine. The cement bed floor will trap the lower portion of the wallboard. Fastened the wallboard as low as you can without going below an imaginary mark that is atleast three inches above the top of your curb.

Just a little hint though (going back to the bench). Too much slope can create unnecessary grief in installing the tile in that area. Only a slight slope is required.
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