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Unread 04-06-2013, 02:04 PM   #76
rjwz2
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How would you do this?

I'm not sure how to grout this transition from tile to natural stones. Do I need to use silicone between the two different tile like normally called for or can I just use grout throughout? That would be a whole lot easier. I'm using two different grout colors. A beige for the tile and light gray for the stones. Also, what sequence should I use? I'm thinking of masking off the areas when I grout to try and keep it contained in their respective aeas. This is on a shower wall if it makes a difference.

As always, thanks to everyone for their responses.
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Unread 04-06-2013, 02:24 PM   #77
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You should be able to grout the whole wall. I'd maybe consider putting some tape on the areas getting the beige grout and doing the accent first. I think the grey would stain the beige, and by doing it first, you can clean and scrape off any that might get into areas you're going to do the beige.
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Unread 04-07-2013, 02:30 PM   #78
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2 more questions....

I got two more questions I need help with.

1. I've put 3 coats of grout and tile sealer on the stones in the above picture and they still look gray as when started. I thought they would turn black like how it is when wet, but after they dry they turn back gray. What can I do to make them black? This is in the shower area.

2. The bottom of the front of my tub is just sitting on the floor without that much weight on it and it can be pushed in quite easily with your foot if you try. Is silicone on there enough to hold it or do I need to do soemthing else?

Thanks!
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Unread 04-07-2013, 03:59 PM   #79
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1. An enriching sealer should give you the look you want if you want em black. These stones are very porous. If they are still changing color when applying the sealer then they aren't fully sealed.
2. Did you set your tub in a bed of mortar?
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Unread 04-07-2013, 04:07 PM   #80
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1. Penetrating sealers are not meant to change the look of the tile or grout at all, Rob.

An enhancer may well have done what you wanted there, but now that you've applied three coats of a penetrating sealer I think your chances of a successful enhancement, or much of any enhancement at all, are about nil. Worst case you might get a little enhancement in some places and none in others and make the situation a good bit less attractive.

I'd recommend at least that you test any sort of enhancement on some spare stones that have been similarly sealed before trying it on your installation.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 04-07-2013, 05:34 PM   #81
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I didn't set the tub in a bed of mortar. It is mounted to the wall studs with braces.

I guess I need to try the othe sealer. I thought any sealer would do the trick.

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Unread 04-08-2013, 12:04 AM   #82
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I thought for sure the stones would turn darker after sealing them. At the store they had a sample with part of it sealed and they were darker. I didn't think of asking them what sealer that was at the time. I just figured any sealer would work. My naiveness. In the picture it is actually darker than in person. In person it is a light gray. The whole idea with my design was that the rocks would be black and a nice contrast to the lighter tile. I'm also doing a border on the floor. The only other thing I can think of is to use black grout and have the rocks stand out that way. I may try a sample and see how it looks. Kind of a bummers.
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Unread 04-08-2013, 03:07 PM   #83
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Back to the tub. Should I run a bead of epoxy glue to the bottom where it meets the floor? The other thiing I thought of doing is screwing some screws from the bottom on the inside of the apron. Or maybe, drill some holes and glue in some dowels? I'm kind of hesitant on the though.

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Unread 04-08-2013, 03:58 PM   #84
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I don't think you have anything to lose by trying an enhancer, Rob, 'cept maybe some money.

Not many options regarding the tub. How wide is the joint between the floor tile and the tub apron? If you have access from below you could cut some access holes, then use some cleats - something like patching drywall.

For instance, cut out a 4X4 hole maybe an inch behind the apron. Then cut a 1X2X8, snake it through the 4X4 hole so that it is against the back of the apron and bridges the 4X4 hole. Screw the 1X2X8 in from below, then screw the 4X4 cut out back in. You could even use HardiBoard for the cleat if ya wanna. Repeat as necessary.
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Unread 04-08-2013, 07:17 PM   #85
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I didn't lay the tile near the tub left so it's completely free of anything now.

Dan, that sounds like a good idea. I just worry about cutting into the bottom of the brand new tub!
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Unread 04-09-2013, 08:44 AM   #86
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Rob,

Just drill a small hole through the floor 1" in front of the tub, stick a wire clothes hanger through the hole. Then go below, find it, measure 1" from it and that'll be where the face of the tub is. Add two more inches and that'll put you well on the other side of the apron. Have at it. Actually, if you drill two holes, 1" inch in front of the apron and, say, 12" apart, you can then use a straight edge from below to mark a line that will help keep your measurements and, more importantly, your cuts, parallel to the apron.

I've got to agree with ya, that flexible apron would make me nervous, too.
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Unread 04-11-2013, 01:10 PM   #87
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Thinking of doing what Dan says. Any other ideas out there? What would be the best way to cut the floor from underneath? I am concerned about damaging the tub. I have a sawzall, jigsaw, holesaw (not that big), rotozip, multitool like the Fein. Remember that I will be doing this upside down crouching under my house.

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Unread 04-11-2013, 01:35 PM   #88
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I'd be concerned about damaging the tub too.

Is your floor tiled yet? If not and you have clear access to where the tub apron meets your plywood floor I'd look for a Liquid Nails or Loctite product suitable for bonding fiberglass/plastic/wood and hit that joint with a nice bead of that for starters. Putting dowels behind the apron might help some but seems like it could still flex between them.
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Unread 04-11-2013, 03:39 PM   #89
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Have faith in your measurments, Rob, but I'll amend a little. Do the holes, a series of them, 1" in front. Underneath measure back from the holes 1" - that's where the face of the apron is - make a mark there. Apron is, what, 1/4"? Add 1 1/4" from the mark - puts you well past the apron and well inside the actual side of the tub. You can figure out how much room you have between the back of the apron and the inside of the tub with a level and tape measure (hold level verticle against the inside of the tub just where it starts it's inward curve then measure from the face of the level to the outside of the apron plane).

I would, however, use a circular saw with the depth set to just a hair more than your sub floor.

Or, some adhesive as Pete suggests. I agree my proposed solution is a lot of work.
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Unread 04-11-2013, 05:35 PM   #90
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My floor is not tiled. I have total access to the outside of the tub where it meets the floor. That's why I first was wondering if a good epoxy would work there without going under the house? Going under would be my last resort if I was told I had to.

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