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Unread 11-11-2006, 08:37 PM   #16
northdenvertom
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Quote:
Lessee that other wall before we be handin' out any merit badges, eh?
I knew you were gonna say that!

Tomorrow.
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Unread 11-13-2006, 12:21 AM   #17
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Shower pan install

Update for the day. I laids the mortor bed and installed the shower pan. For reference, I used 30 lbs of mortor - could of used 40-50 easy. Hope it suffices.
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Unread 11-13-2006, 12:22 AM   #18
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humor for the day

Since I lack a toilet, there is no reason I can't have a throne.
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Unread 11-13-2006, 05:58 PM   #19
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Very good, Tom Looks like you have it going your way.
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Unread 11-13-2006, 06:08 PM   #20
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Thanks John. P.S. I just placed an order for your book. It may come too late, but I got other projects to do.

I'm still fretting about the lip around the pan. I'm a perfect 1/2" from the framing all the way around, meaning the CBU will not drop down into the pan. This is the way it was before, and obviously it caused problems. However, it was just gypsum board behind so I am improving it. I am a slave to the original framing due to extended wall on either side. I guess I'll just have to live with it and take the wrath of the forum.
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Unread 11-13-2006, 06:13 PM   #21
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New title for thread?

Oh yeah, any chance of changing the title? I'm no longer confused about vapor barriers. How about "Water damaged shower and floor repair with new porcelain tile"

Tom
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Unread 11-13-2006, 06:45 PM   #22
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Do the wall construction correctly, Tom. There are always ways to deal with trimming out the edges.

My opinon; worth price charged.

That title won't even fit on the page.

How 'bout Tom's Leaky Shower Project, or something similarly mundane?
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Unread 11-13-2006, 08:28 PM   #23
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Well I don't want to replace one leaky shower with another leaky shower!

I'm totally confused what to do? Here are more examples of shower pan installs from manufacturers that show CBU above and below the lip and various ways to water proof it. Then there's this guy who lips it over but doesn't say a word about how to fur it?

http://www.ibacos.com/pubs/BestPrac/..._Practices.pdf

Why not just run a strip of Kerdi across the bottom? I can't believe I just said that!

How about renaming it "How to install a prefab shower pan"?
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Unread 11-13-2006, 08:36 PM   #24
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You just need to add some furring strips to the edge of each stud, Tom. Whatever thickness you need so's the CBU will lap over the edge of the receptor. Rips of plywood is always my material of choice for such extensions because it is uniform in thickness and doesn't split when fastened.

You can do it with the CBU stopped above the receptor so long as the moisture barrier drapes over the receptor lip, but I still like it better with the wall board and the moisture barrier over the lip.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 11-14-2006, 06:46 PM   #25
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Thank you CX. I appreciate your input.

I have a question about the wonderboard CBU. The manufacturer's instructions state to "Fasten Wonder board panels to studs every 6"-8" and around all edges." That's fine for the vertical studs, but what about the horizontal edges? That would be every 16" unless I need nailers at every horizontal seam?
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Unread 11-14-2006, 07:47 PM   #26
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Not trying to hijack your thread, however, I am beginning this same type of installation and the info gained from this thread has been tremendous. Let me know if I need to start another thread.

I am also installing a pre-fab shower pan, and am planning on using CBU on the walls with laticrete 9235 waterproofing. My understanding is that I don't want the waterproof and the vapor barrier behind the CBU. With this, how would the transition from the CBU to the shower pan be handled, as I can't overlap the vapor barrier, as it doesn't exist?

Also, if I need furring strips to make the CBU overlap the pan, I look forward to info on handling the transition between the built out tile and the greenboard wall outside the wet area.
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Unread 11-14-2006, 08:29 PM   #27
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Welcome, Jason.

Please start a thread for your project. While it seems like a good eye-dee to just axe one more little question on someone else's thread, it really gets confusing for all concerned when it turns into more than that. Which it always does.

We'll be able to keep up with the history of your project and give you more meaningful answers that way.

Even more reason to have your CBU over the lip of the receptor in your case. Mandatory, in fact, as far as I'm concerned.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 11-14-2006, 09:55 PM   #28
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Thanks CX. I didn't want to go down there with my 10 Gallon Hat, Big White Horse, and Shiney Badge to enforce the law!

That be a reference to one of my favorite Texan, Lyle Lovett, that is next to you my friend.
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Unread 11-28-2006, 10:41 PM   #29
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Progress report

Hello!

And thank you all for you valuable input! This site is great and all the information is superb and I have learned so much. Here is the progress to date:

I redid all the framing with both vertical and horizontal 2x4 supports so the all the edges of the CBU had a nailing surface. I installed the vapor barrier, one big 10'x8' peice. The CBU went in next and I framed in my overpriced duk liner for the niche. I taped and mudded all joints with Mapei Ultraflex 2. I skim coated the upper portion of the CBU with drywall compound to ready it for texture and paint. For the fun part, I finally installed the tile. Argentina porcelain tile - looks like travertine, but it's not! Man! What a lot of work, but finally a bit of progress. I still need to tile the bull nose around the edges and then on to the floor.

I can’t leave tonight without one question. One of the trim pieces around the niche lost its place and the grout line is crooked. What are the tricks to fix that? I thought of a dremmal tool to chamfer the edge to make it look like the grout line is straight?

Hope you all enjoy the pichers.
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Unread 11-28-2006, 11:01 PM   #30
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Some mo better pichers

Ya know, there gotta be a auto-reformat-the-picher-to-fit-the-super-restrictive-requirement-for-photo-upload-configure-for-me forum function!
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