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07-03-2009, 04:20 PM
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#1
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 6
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Mastic as grout?
I just built out a tub surround with slate, and I have several inset cubbies which I installed some glass tiles. These tiles are from American Olean, they are 1" squares and come mounted with backing paper on the FACE of the tiles, instead of a mat on the back. The stuff is supposed to be water soluble. So when installing them, I broke my own cardinal rule and went to Home Depot for advice on what to use as thinset. They sold me this stuff called AcrylPro, which is a white, latex like mastic. They also told me to back butter the tile sheets.
So now that I'm peeling the paper off, the white mastic has spooged up to the front of the tiles in several places, leaving no room for grout. Also, it is pliable so its hard to gouge out.
My question is should I just fill in all the rest of the gaps with this stuff instead of grouting? Should I carve at least some out and then fill in the gaps with another white medium like acrylicized latex caulk? I don't know how long the stuff will hold up to water.
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07-03-2009, 04:30 PM
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#2
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Retired Moderator - Theatre Guy (and computers)
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Weare, NH
Posts: 8,915
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Sorry to say but the AcrylPro is not suitable for use in a wet area. Remove everything you set with it and start again.
What did you use to set the slate?
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07-03-2009, 04:39 PM
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#3
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Tampa Florida Tile Contractor
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Tampa, Florida
Posts: 26,509
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I would go back to HD and make a claim for them to pay for the tile job there misinformation just caused you.
as said mastic should not be used in a shower or with glass tile. and especially not backbuttering paper faced glass tile.
the best way to set them is with the Laticrete "One step" method.
sorry to say it is ruined.
Last edited by ceramictec; 07-03-2009 at 06:13 PM.
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07-03-2009, 05:59 PM
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#4
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Albany, NY
Posts: 8,612
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Ouch. Sorry. I wish I could tell you that Brian and Joe are wrong and there is an easy fix, but I can't.
gueuze- how about a haiku?
Tears hard as glass tiles
Bad advice set with mastic
Complete do over
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07-03-2009, 09:49 PM
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#5
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Dallas, TX
Posts: 841
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Not sure what American Olean recommends for their glass adhesive, but it would surprise me if it was mastic.
__________________
Dean
Lead Safe Certified Contractor,
Lead Risk Assessor, Licensed Mold
Inspector and IAQ Inspector
www.deanlovvorn.com
Last edited by bathroomremodeler; 07-03-2009 at 10:09 PM.
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07-03-2009, 10:20 PM
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#6
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Tampa Florida Tile Contractor
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Tampa, Florida
Posts: 26,509
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I wouldn't push it and install glass with it.
not on the data sheet as an acceptable tile.
plus glass mosaic is ANSI A108.14 : Paper-faced glass
tile mosaic thinner than 3/16 inch using wet-set method
Last edited by ceramictec; 07-04-2009 at 08:29 AM.
Reason: spelling
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07-04-2009, 01:45 AM
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#7
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Potter, Contractor, Philosopher
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: St. Louis
Posts: 918
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take it all down, do it right.
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07-04-2009, 09:01 AM
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#8
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 6
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Joe-
I used Tec 30LB mortar for the slate tiles over Hardie board. I also used a mesh tape over the joints that I sealed first with latex caulk then grouted over before the slate.
As far as starting over, yeah that sucks but not the end of the world. The tiles plink off easily and that stupid mastic doesn't even bond (which I realized after starting this thread) to the glass tiles. I will read up on the Laticrete method, which I should have done in the first place. Being a first-timer, I would have to say the end result by resetting each tile manually will be better than the the original paper-backed install. I can tell the paper backed mosaic is more for professionals who know how to manage it.
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07-05-2009, 12:25 AM
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#9
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Tampa Florida Tile Contractor
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Tampa, Florida
Posts: 26,509
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if re setting them each by hand now you might want to use a modified thinset and a thinner trowel.
it will stop the thinset from oozing up through the joint.
and no you cant grout with thinset either
Last edited by ceramictec; 07-05-2009 at 09:23 AM.
Reason: spelling
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07-05-2009, 09:22 AM
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#10
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AC Specialist -- Schluterville Graduate
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: La Quinta, CA and Usk, WA
Posts: 10,791
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike
I also used a mesh tape over the joints that I sealed first with latex caulk then grouted over before the slate.
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Never heard of this method. The Hardiebacker installation instructions say nothing about using latex caulk in the joints. When you say "grouted over" do you mean you imbedded the mesh tape in thinset?
Brian
__________________
Brian
If that doesn't work, I'll always think it should have.
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07-06-2009, 08:33 PM
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#11
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 6
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Brian- on each board joint I ran the mesh tape. Then I applied the caulk, pushing it deep into the joints, followed by sponging the excess caulk off, so essentially the caulk was pushed behind the mesh tape. I then followed up with a skimcoat application of the mortar over the tape. A few days later it was totally solid and bonded well onto the latex/tape. Just an added layer of waterproofing. I'm a long-time plumber so I know caulking well, and had one of my general contractor buddies direct me with this step.
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07-06-2009, 08:41 PM
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#12
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AC Specialist -- Schluterville Graduate
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: La Quinta, CA and Usk, WA
Posts: 10,791
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Mike,
Did you use poly or felt on the studs or did you apply a surface waterproofing agent like RedGard?
Brian
__________________
Brian
If that doesn't work, I'll always think it should have.
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