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Unread 05-25-2005, 11:25 AM   #1
D Tom
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Finish coating on Durock outdoor kitchen

I'm wrapping up a outdoor kitchen project and down to applying a decorative coating to the sides of the island. This is a steel framed construction island with Durock concrete board wall sides, which I want to finish coat. The Durock is attached to the steel structure with Liquid Nails and screws and I have mortared all the seams.

I want somewhat of a stucco look and weathers well. This has full exposure to the elements in Southern Indiana.

I'm thinking of using a latex modified white mortar with a concrete colorant applied with a hopper gun and 'tooled' to the finish I'm looking for.

My questions are:
Is this the right approach for a durable finish?

Should I apply a bonding agent before applying the mortar?

Should I apply a sealer after the application?

Is there a better way?

I'm not sure if this is the place to post something like this, but I'm looking for some experienced opinions.

Thanks!
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Unread 05-25-2005, 11:39 AM   #2
Davestone
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I myself have been researching these cbu covered metal framed bbq,s.I've seen them stucco'd, and i believe hopper applied, and they seem to have held up well.It might not hurt to skim coat the cbu before you hop it, but i'm not sure that's necessary.Someone else here will surely know more.
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Unread 05-25-2005, 01:45 PM   #3
Brennanleroy
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Elements of Indiana? I have used a latex modified stucco finish coat directly over the CBU. But the California winter may not be that of Indiana. You can add tint to the 5gallon buckets that the product is sold, or buy it already colored. Perhaps a coat of elastomeric paint over the stucco coat will provide a sound barrier to the Indiana elements
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Unread 05-25-2005, 05:55 PM   #4
travistile
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It's easy.....

Those prefab outdoor grills are huge margin items. A couple hundred bucks worth of materials and people are paying thousands of dollars for them.

So I've built a few myself

Find a drywall supplier in your area that carries Dryvit.

Comes in 5 gallon pails tinted to any color you want. About $38 a pail and covers close to 150sf.

You can spray it with a drywall hopper (don't use more than 15psi), heck if you thin it enough you can even roll it on with a 3/4" texture roller.

But troweling it on gives the best results. I personally like the "Sandblast", but you can select from several textures achieved by varying aggregate size.

Resist the urge to apply it too thick - you only need 1/8" of coverage. It's tough stuff after you give it a day to dry.

I just finished doing the privacy walls and columns on a 1200sf patio, applied it over smooth Hardiboard.

Works great.
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Unread 05-27-2005, 02:50 PM   #5
maggiethelab
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The next question is what's the best way to do the counter.

Slab granite would be the best, but if you were going to tile how would you do it? I'm thinking 3/4" plywood, thinset & screw 1/2" backerboard, Redguard the whole thing then tile over that.

Thoughts?
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Unread 05-28-2005, 07:02 AM   #6
travistile
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Yep, that's exactly right. And although you didn't mention it I'm sure you meant to include taping any seams and double taping the edges.

Sometimes I'll skip the RedGard if I've got some Protectowrap laying around. It's much easier to put down, don't have to wait for it to cure, and for smaller jobs like this it's not too expensive.
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Unread 05-28-2005, 07:07 AM   #7
D Tom
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Thank you for the input guys. I went to a drywall place that carries something similar to Dryvit (Tex?). They seemed leary about selling to me since I was not a 'pro' installer. That's OK. I bought some QUIKWall, foritifer, bonding agent, and a couple mortar colorants and did a 'test' piece yesterday on some scrap Durock. Trowelled on. Really turned out nice. I like this method because I can play with the colors and get exactly what I want.

Maggiethelab, the tile is on top of plywood, Durock liquid nailed and screwed to that, and Ditra on top of that. Hope it sticks around for awhile. I drove screws into the edge about every 6" to give the V-cap something more to 'grab' onto. Hope that works!!!

Here's a couple shots of it to date. Just set the grille and burner in yesterday and HAD to cook up some brats!!!




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Unread 05-28-2005, 07:21 AM   #8
Davy
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Nice job D.Tom, post another picher when you're finished.
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Unread 05-28-2005, 07:55 PM   #9
maggiethelab
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Hmmmm.... The Durock is set down with Liquid Nails? Is that OK to do? It would be a whole lot easier than Thinset, but for the one I'm about to do I'd planned on the thinset approach.

I'll get some pictures up when I get a chance...
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Unread 05-28-2005, 08:39 PM   #10
opiethetileman
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DUDE I GOT one thing to say That is BAD A$$. I got the money to fill that puppy with meat and beer any time your ready. My wife wants one of them now thanks.
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Unread 05-29-2005, 10:26 AM   #11
John Bridge
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Hi Folks,

Just for future reference, I would use waterproofing on anything that is wood or metal. I'm sure the Dryvit type material will handle it if applied with no breaks. Red Gard could also be used if the sides are to be tiled, and of course, Kerdi and Ditra are great waterproofing products.
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