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Unread 03-04-2002, 09:18 AM   #16
Paul D.
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3rd type of engineer

Hey Cory, how about the third and most feared: the engineer that won't EVER stop asking questions? Used car dealers can tell them a mile away !
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Unread 03-05-2002, 07:20 AM   #17
g-stein
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Unhappy Most Feared

I rather suspect I fall into the most feared third category. Anyhow, I had something wierd happen with the self leveling compound I poured over my heating wires. I poured 3/16" of SLC over my 1/16" dia wire, 100 lbs of SLC over 62 sq ft. A short section of wire came loose and "arched up" when it floated in the SLC. I put a small wood block on the wire to hold it down and figured I would fill the hole later. the SLC formed a mound 1/4" high and 2 feet in diameter around where the wood block was. THe area around the mound is depressed slightly, about 1/16", which indicates material was "pulled" into the mound. I can't raise the floor because the thresholds won't allow it but fortunately, the wire was pressed deep into the SLC so I think I can plane it down without cutting the wire. No real question here, I just thought this was strange. I think the proper procedure with wire is to "paint" a thin coating of SLC on the wire, let it set up a few hours, then pour the whole floor. Thanks Again, George
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Unread 03-05-2002, 08:10 AM   #18
Rob Z
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George

This sounds like a case for "Da Leveler". He'll be here just as soon as he finds a phone booth so he can change into his disguise.
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Unread 03-05-2002, 05:18 PM   #19
flatfloor
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GS

Rob asked me to peek at your thread, I had looked when you first posted but it seemed as though you had everything pretty much in control.

I think he asked me to address your rusting question, answer is no the wire won't rust. The water in SLCs is gone within 24 hours. The SLC cures through two processes, hydration and evaporation.

Many radiant mfrs. are now recommending encapsulating in SLCs. Keep in mind any active cracks in the slab will telegraph through the SLC so use a membrane on top of the SLC.

Don't forget to prime the floor before you place the wire.
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Unread 03-08-2002, 02:30 PM   #20
g-stein
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Unsanded grout ???

May I bother this board with one more question? I just finished installing a bunch of (imitation) marble perlato tile. This tile is marble chunks in a resin matrix. The tile was installed with 1/16" grout lines on the bathroom floor. Quick grout question. I plan to use unsanded grout because of the thin grout lines but was told that unsanded grout should only be used on ceramic wall tile. Is this true? If so, what would be the appropriate grout for these thin grout lines. I also have a quick thinset question. What is a good thinset to use for ceramic tile on the shower floor. I plan to use 1.5" ceramic mosaic tiles, unless my wife has other ideas. The wall tiles will be stuck on with ceramic wall tile mastic. Thanks again. George.
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Unread 03-08-2002, 03:31 PM   #21
flatfloor
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George, sorry I somehow missed your other question, which was the 1/4" mound. Wierd, did you, I hope, prime this floor before the wiring and the slc?

Oh-oh, you said the M word, I'm getting outa here.
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Unread 03-08-2002, 03:43 PM   #22
John Bridge
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Hi George,

That is indeed strange about the slc mound. An anomaly, I suppose. Seems to happen a lot around here.

Any decent thin set will hold the mosaics to the shower floor. I use a lot of Custom's Master Blend because it's convenient to get at Home Depot.

Why in the world are you using m- m- mastic on the wall tiles?
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Unread 03-08-2002, 06:18 PM   #23
Bud Cline
Tile Contractor -- Central Nebraska
 
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UNSANDED grout is fine for 1/16" joints, in fact there is less chance of scratching your marble using unsanded grout.

GO FOR IT!
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Unread 03-08-2002, 10:43 PM   #24
Rob Z
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George

Quick! Get that work done before your wife changes her mind!

Use thinset instead of mastic so it will be permanent and she can't get you to tear it out later when she changes her mind.


Flatfloor

I like the disguise! "Self Leveling Man" to the rescue!!
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Unread 03-09-2002, 11:58 AM   #25
g-stein
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M***ic, dirty word.

Sounds like Mastic is a dirty word. I thought one used mastic on wall tile because it would hold the tile in place. I will look for a thinset to use on the ceramic wall tile. Anyhow, the floor was a porous concrete. The SLC bag indicated I should wet the floor before pouring on porous concrete so I cleaned and mopped the floor thoroughly and kept it wet for a few hours before pouring. In retrospect, priming would have been a much better idea. Perhaps the previous owners dog peed on the floor or something and it caused the wire to pop up and the SLC to recoil in terrorto create the mound. Who knows. Anyhow, again, thanks for the advice. george
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Unread 03-09-2002, 05:16 PM   #26
flatfloor
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George for future reference, and for anybody else contemplating the use of a SLC, the floor MUST be primed. If the bag you looking at says wet the floor or no priming needed go find another bag.
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Unread 03-12-2002, 10:13 AM   #27
g-stein
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SLC N Stuff

I allowed things to cure for a couple of days then went around the gap at the edge of the tile and knocked chunks of SLC off with a chisel to test adhesion. Each chunk of SLC pulled a significant amount of concrete up with it so I think I lucked out and the SLC is stuck down fairly well. Hopefully it won't come loose with age / temperature fluctuations / etc. If it does, I will be able to do it better next time . Anyhow, thanks again, George.
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Unread 03-12-2002, 04:40 PM   #28
flatfloor
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Your fine (I think) as long as that mound doesn't turn into an alien life force.
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Unread 03-12-2002, 05:57 PM   #29
g-stein
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Talking Master Homebuilder

Yup. Improperly installed subfloor. Guess I'm qualified for my "Florida Master Homebuilder" certification :/
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Unread 03-12-2002, 06:40 PM   #30
John Bridge
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Er, George, have we met?

"Hopefully it won't come loose with age / temperature fluctuations / etc."

You have just described what remains of my body.
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