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Unread 04-14-2018, 06:04 AM   #46
VToutdoors
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Good Morning,

Update to the glue situation. Spoke with the manufacturer, Castelli Tile out of Ohio, they stated that 70% of the back of the tiles are only cover with glue. I told them 100%. Their answer was then that the fiberglass mesh actually reinforces the tiles bond to the thinset.

Contacted Best Tile, tile supply store, who stated that the backs of the tiles should not be covered with glue. Sent them photos and they immediately told me to not install the floor, they would be looking at the National stock and calling me back. Apparently the batch that I have is defect and they are giving me a 100% refund even though the tiles are dry fitted to the bathroom and cut.

Got a sample of Daltiles marble mosaic. Definitely glue on the back, but no where near the glue coverage that these tiles have.

Thank you for the advice guys. One question, what ridges are you talking about flattening?
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Unread 04-14-2018, 12:03 PM   #47
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The ridges created by your notched trowel. After combing out, turn the trowel around and use the flat side to knock down the ridges to have a full spread.
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Unread 04-14-2018, 08:24 PM   #48
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Yep. the Laticrete 254 is killer stuff. Make sure you get white. Constantly wash you hands while setting or you will have to wear it off. Also set your first couple of sheets and then pull them to check for coverage.

I use a small piece of 2x4 to beat those tile in. Do a small section and slide the piece of wood(wet) across the tiles checking for high ones. Then check with the feel of your fingers for a final quality control check.

Keep a toothbrush in your water bucket to clean up any poo that might have oozed up in the joints and keep the faces clean with a sponge.

Seal the marble before grouting.
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Unread 04-25-2018, 01:14 PM   #49
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Afternoon,

I returned the previously bought tile to the tile supply store and purchased a Marble Mosaic from a different manufacturer. I inspected the tile when I got home and found that this too was covered in "glue"

I reached out to the company who sells it, Stone Partnership, their answer was:
This 2” hexagonal mosaic has a resin backing that is not water soluble. This type backing is normal for many mosaics and should be installed using a latex modified thinset which is the most commonly used adhesive material in the ceramic/stone business.

As always, thanks for the guidance and the responses.
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Unread 04-26-2018, 04:55 AM   #50
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Did a little experiment last night with the adhesive thats in this round of Marble Mosaic. I was told yesterday by the manufacturer that the glue was epoxy based and NOT water soluble.

After an hour in water the clear hard glue turned white and soft. 12 hours its lost its original shape.
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Unread 04-26-2018, 09:11 AM   #51
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After calling and informing the manufacturer that their adhesive is water soluble and coating the back of the tiles, they stated:

"Adam – following our conversation of this morning, I assure you that we sell a tremendous amount of mosaics, as does everyone in the entire U.S. mosaic market, with a backing as you have on the mosaics in question. In the past 25 years no installation issues have arisen from these installations. This is true because the cement in the setting system sets up and adheres to the mosaics before any deterioration of the water soluble glue can occur."
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Unread 06-26-2018, 05:47 AM   #52
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How to remove one tile

I installed a 2" marble hexagon mosaic the other day and there is one tile that is off.
This was installed on Sunday using 254 platinum over Strata mat.

How hard would it be to remove 1 tile?

Any ideas of how to do it?
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Unread 06-26-2018, 06:02 AM   #53
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If it’s grouted, cut out the grout around it first.

Then I’d take a grinder or dremel / diamond wheel combo, make a couple kerf cuts as close to the depth of the tile as possible, then cold chisel and hammer to gently pry the pieces out. You may have to back cut the replacement tile so it sits flush.

Over the uncoupling membranes I don’t like to just take a hammer and chisel out of concern for crushing the membrane.
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Unread 08-11-2018, 11:16 AM   #54
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Need Help! What to do with these corners?

I have been preparing a bathroom remodel for some time with the help of this forum. I had bad luck with a "tile contractor" a few months back. In my spare time I was able to prep the bathroom for tile (hardiebacker, fibermesh, thinset, Stratamat for the floor) and installed the marble mosaic floor tile. However I was very slow at it. I decided to reach out for help again and hired another tiler.

There were some issues that came up when tiling with a 3x6 subway tile with 1/16th grout lines and metal trim. We ran out of room on the side walls by 1/16th of an inch, vertical corners are spaced 1/8", back wall's left corner became concave by 1/16th of an inch (left corner. Initially the tile fit perfectly, but then the wall bowed. I guess he figured a 1/8th grouted corner was ok. I would have preferred a 1/16th caulk line. He says he is the the type of tiler who likes to grout the corners, then caulk over it, but will do what I want. Ive read countless times to not grout, but caulk the corners.

Overall the tiler did a nice job lining things up but I have concerns of what to do in the vertical corners.

There is one area in the upper left corner where the tiles are not butted up well, but more corner to corner, that plane shifted as well (old house). His plan was to fill the void with grout. Plan is to use Bright White Permacolor Select NS and Latisil from laticrete (latisil does say it is to be used in 1/8th - 1/2" joints). Considering using backer rod in the area where the tiles are not butted up much.

Any help would be much appreciated. Im fairly OCD guy who has a tendency to over analyze things. FYI, my wife says I'm not allowed to tear it out.
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Last edited by VToutdoors; 08-11-2018 at 11:24 AM.
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Unread 08-11-2018, 12:13 PM   #55
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Adam, I've again combined your new thread with your original so folks can see what you're working on and what's been previously asked and answered.

A flexible sealant is called for in the vertical corner in your photo as well as at any other change of plane in the tile backing material. The 1/8th" joint there is appropriate.

Not sure I can tell what your other described problem is by looking at your photos. Perhaps someone else can.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 08-11-2018, 12:33 PM   #56
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CX thanks for combining my thread. Next time Ill post to the original

I guess my question is should I fill the void (red circle) with anything other than sealant in the drawing? Shouldnt the tiles overlap more?

Im disappointed in the 1/8th joint, esthetically I wish it was smaller.
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Unread 08-11-2018, 12:42 PM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adam
Shouldnt the tiles overlap more?
In my perfect world, yes, they should. But they don't. Some backer rod in there would be a good idea if you can find some that will fit. Won't change the aesthetics, of course, but I think you'll find that joint won't look so bad to you once it's been caulked. And the 1/8th" joint is more correct than would be a 1/16th" joint for purposes of your flexible sealant.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 08-11-2018, 12:58 PM   #58
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Would filling the void with thinset be a bad idea?
Im considering asking the tiler to fill that void with grout, still keeping the 2 planes separated, then caulking the joint.

When the caulk needs to be replaced years down the road, it wont be locked in the joint and can be removed, cleaned, and replaced. It does help that this area is in the top 1/3 of the wall.
Thanks.
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Unread 08-11-2018, 01:27 PM   #59
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You still talking about that vertical corner joint, Adam?
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Unread 08-11-2018, 01:42 PM   #60
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Yes,the void behind the tile, where you mentioned I could add backer rod.

Caulked lines in the vertical corners. what is an acceptable thickness with 1/16th grout lines. My concern is trying to keep the caulked lines thin. If I caulk this 1/8th joint with a 45 degree caulk line it will be about 3/16th. Bad?
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Last edited by VToutdoors; 08-11-2018 at 01:52 PM.
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