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Unread 01-26-2012, 09:43 PM   #16
eagle0001
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? re: what's underneath

Hi. I have a general question...Is the following accurate in terms off what may be below a tile install?

1) 3/4" ply subfloor (properly fastened to the joists)
2) 1/2" ply underlayment (properly fastened to the ply subfloor)
3) Ditra (installed on top of the ply underlayment with thinset)
or 1/2" CBU (properly fastened w/CBU fasteners and thinset to the 1/2" ply underlayment)

Thanks in advance for responses!
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Unread 01-26-2012, 09:48 PM   #17
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You may do either, Rolly, but for a floor installation there is never a requirement for a CBU thicker (your half-inch) than the manufacturer's thinnest product unless you just need the additional height.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 01-30-2012, 09:52 PM   #18
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? re: Pan liner

A wall in my new shower will have a tiled bench running its full length. With that in mind, I have the following questions about installing the pan liner:

1) Do I run the pan liner up the front and over the top of the bench and several inches up the wall? If so, please advise on how and where to properly fasten the liner to the bench in order to avoid leaks.

or

2) Should I only run the liner several inches up the front of the bench and fasten it there? Hence, at the same height as I would run the liner up and fasten it to the shower walls?

Note that I intended on fastening 1/4" CBU to the front and top of the bench after I install the liner. Thereafter I intend on applying Hydo Ban to the CBU.

Thanks in advance for responding!
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Unread 01-31-2012, 06:29 AM   #19
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Option 2. Use plywood on the seating area of the bench, then backerboard, then waterproof the walls. Hydro Ban may not require reinforcing fabric in the corners, but I would install it anyway.
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Unread 02-21-2012, 10:27 AM   #20
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? re: Gap between CBU and to mortar pan

Please comment on attached pic in terms of whether the gap (< than 1") can be left alone or filled with mortar.

I initially read posts that the CBU should be installed with a slight gap above the top layer of the mortar pan; however, I now read posts that the CBU should have been imbedded below the top layer of the mortar pan.

BTW, the dark spots on the CBU screw heads are due to silicon I dabbed on. Did this as an added amount of protection eventhough I will be covering the shower walls with Hydo Ban, which leads me to another question...Should I also cover the mortar pan with Hydro?

As always, responses are much appreciated!

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Unread 02-21-2012, 10:33 AM   #21
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What's that red/pink/orange stuff I see in those huge gaps?
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Unread 02-21-2012, 11:00 AM   #22
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The colored material behing the CBU is the pan liner, which runs up the face of the bench.
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Unread 02-21-2012, 11:12 AM   #23
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OK, tape and mud those joints with CBU tape and thinset. When you apply the Hydroban, stop it at the floor.

Speaking of Hydroban, I don't think you did youself any favors siliconing the screw heads. Acoording to their instructions, you prep the surface by: "Remove dust, dirt, oil, grease, paint, laitance, efflorescence, curing compounds, sealers, water repellents and other materials that prevent bond." I think that silicon caulk fits one or more of those prohibited items.

Does the perimeter of your floor dip in the middle as it appears to under the backerboard?
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Unread 02-21-2012, 12:13 PM   #24
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Many, many, thanks Bob. I'll remove the silicon from the screw heads. I was thinking of doing so any way after I bought the Hydro. I figured it was overkill and/or may cause the Hydro not to adhere properly. No big deal since the silicon rolls off pretty easy with my finger or a rag. I already tried it. Glad I didn't contiinue that practice on the gazillion other screw heads in the shower.

As for the dip between the CBU and pan, it only increases in the middle due to the slope and close proximity between the bench and the drain. Hence, the gap decreases as you move further out and away from the drain and the slope becomes more gradual.

Comments/Thoughts?
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Unread 02-21-2012, 12:40 PM   #25
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You know your wall tile will have to follow that slope, too. If they are big, it won't be too bad, as long as you make accurate cuts.
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Unread 02-21-2012, 01:18 PM   #26
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Fortunately the tiles are big. I'll scribe the slope onto the tile prior to cutting. Thinking that I should make multiple cuts into the tile up to the scribe line and then use nippers to break off the pieces. Thinking that the caulk between the shower floor tile and bench face tile will hide any choppiness where I nipped off pieces.

Do you agree?

Thanks!
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Unread 02-21-2012, 01:28 PM   #27
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No. I'd install the wall tiles first, then the floor tiles. The floor tiles will get straight cuts, if at all. They will hide the bottom edges of the wall tile.
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Unread 02-22-2012, 10:39 AM   #28
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? re: Thinset mortar

I can't see using the latex fortified thinset mortar sold to me by a tile shop, which was used to build my pan, for also taping joints, under Ditra, and setting tiles due to the tiny pebbles in it. I suspect that I should be using something else. i.e., VersaBond white?

Any comments/thoughts will be much appreciated.
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Unread 02-22-2012, 11:48 AM   #29
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Versabond is fine. Exactly what were you using? Name names, it's OK.
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Unread 02-22-2012, 01:03 PM   #30
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Hello again Bob. Thanks again for your continued responses to my posts.

The product is Pro-Flex Platinum manufactured by Superior Adhesives and Chemicals and distributed by The Tile Shop. Here's a link:

http://www.tileshop.com/installation...s/thinset.aspx

Thoughts/comments?

Many thanks!
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