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Unread 06-14-2011, 01:40 PM   #31
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Unread 06-14-2011, 07:52 PM   #32
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well, I called and of course they hesitate to give advice that falls outside standard practice but she did say I could use a another layer of Ditra to shim it.
making sure I use unmodified thin set.

but of course, the ideal solution would be to rip out, clean pour self leveler and start over... the work does not scare me, I'm use to tedious stuff, I'm simply afraid to damage the wires below... the section in question is simply too small to justify the risk of damaging the entire job!
So I'll try the shim approach and see what that gives me

that's the third time I've used SLC and all three times I've never been able to achieve a dead flat surface, even if I followed the instruction to a T.

I have to figure it out for my next job since that one is about 300 square feet!
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Unread 06-14-2011, 07:53 PM   #33
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SLC is tricky to work with. It takes a lot of practice. Don't worry, you're in good company.
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Unread 06-14-2011, 08:09 PM   #34
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what is the trick to perfect flat floors with slc??
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Unread 06-14-2011, 08:21 PM   #35
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1- For the begining DIYer, use the slow setting SLC. The rapid is tough for the well experienced crowd. They do make slower setting SLC, 45 minutes or several hours) not too common but its out there

2- Have someone help you. Muscle is required. Not too much though, as you will be blaming this person for everything that goes wrong.

3- Prep the area well; garden hose, spare buckets of water, easy to reach stacked bags of SLC, clear path to the area where it will be poured.

4- Mark the area where it will stop if you are not covering all the area

5- Set depth guages to mark the proper height. I use TLS straps, you can use anything non organic. Hot glue them to the floor so they don't float away

6- Prep the area where the SLC goes well in advance of opening the first bag.
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Unread 06-14-2011, 09:37 PM   #36
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those TLS straps... you mark how high you want to go on those straps I assume... but how would you go about ensuring you are level from one strip to the next? lasers? so low off the ground, having a hard picturing how to make sure all your reference lines are on the same plane
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Unread 06-14-2011, 09:48 PM   #37
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The last time we did this we used a rotary laser, tape measure held by yours truly, used a broom stick to help hold the tape measure at the right height, so that my guy could use the bottom edge of the tape measure to butt the shears against. The measurement included the thickness of the blade on the shears.

Or you can stack stuff and measure up from there.
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Unread 06-18-2011, 09:40 PM   #38
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finally had time to start tiling tonight!
got 1/3 done and ran out of time.. .close to midnight and my wife wanted to go to bed (it's our master bedroom bath I'm working on).

how can I tile again? can I tile in 8 hours or so? I would be using what I've laid down as a reference meaning my next row of fresh tiles would push up against what I laid tonight... is that ok or should I let it dry longer?
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Unread 06-18-2011, 09:43 PM   #39
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Hi Pabs, you can tile when ever you want. I would try to stay off the stuff you set tonight when you continue tomorrow.
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Unread 06-18-2011, 09:52 PM   #40
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oh , I would not walk on it... just wondering if "pushing" on it would be an issue...figured it would be set enough for that but wanted to be certain before I mucked things up

I really want to get cracking on that and finish it! this project has dragged out way too long
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Unread 06-19-2011, 09:20 AM   #41
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Pabs,

Relax. We have some threads on the forum where it took years to finish. You're doing just fine.
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Unread 06-20-2011, 07:36 AM   #42
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hehe, i';m used to things taking a long time...
2 young kids in the house, my projects don't normally start until 9pm!

finished tiling last night at 12h30am! outside cleaning my buckets and tools at 1am! neighbors must think I'm nuts!

Went well... I ended up shimming that spot in the corner with a piece of Ditra, worked great, was just the perfect height to bring the tile where I wanted

and that hump in the middle of the room I was able to correct with the mortar

for my next tile job I will do things a bit differently

first thing I will do ALL that is possible to ensure the SLC is dead lever and flat.
If I go with the Ditra on that job i will fill the waffles before hand. let it dry and then start to tile

I've done it both ways and find that the tiling goes by so much quicker when the holes are already filled.

I will not pre-cut every tile before,I will do all large (full) tiles fist , let them dry and then cut my edge tiles and install them. for this project I had the whole thing cut before I laid down the tile.

but fist I'll finish this project

thanks for or guiding me along guys!
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Unread 06-20-2011, 02:44 PM   #43
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Not all SLC's are alike...from both setting time to viscosity to thickness range supported, they differ. Some flow better than others, and some can be poured deeper. So, it's a search to find what you're comfortable with. Some can be mixed with addatives that change the characteristics (flexibility and stick, generally), so take that into account. It does add up, none of the stuff is cheap.
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Unread 07-11-2011, 08:06 AM   #44
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hey guys...quick question regarding grout.
I just noticed that some of the joints are too shallow... basically my wife removed too much grout with the sponge...
I noticed last night since I was on my hands and knees cleaning something on the floor.. .not all joints are starved like this but a few...can I apply more grout over that one? it`s only been a couple of weeks since I applied the first time.
the error is not grave enough to justify removing all the grout and starting over... but if there`s a way I can "top it off" that would be great

thanks
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Unread 07-11-2011, 08:35 AM   #45
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No, topping off won't work. Grout needs some depth and surface area to cling to. If you can live with what you got, do that. If not, dig out about 2/3s of the grout depth and re-grout. If you do that, prepare yourself for some color mis-match.
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