Ceramic Tile Advice Forums - John Bridge Ceramic Tile

Welcome to John Bridge / Tile Your World, the friendliest DIY Forum on the Internet


Advertiser Directory
JohnBridge.com Home
Buy John Bridge's Books

Go Back   Ceramic Tile Advice Forums - John Bridge Ceramic Tile > Tile & Stone Forums > Tile Forum/Advice Board

Sponsors


Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 09-14-2018, 11:10 AM   #16
Longshot_HN
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2018
Posts: 32
I called my plumber just to see why he put the studs so far apart. He actually agreed it is too far and is planning on stopping by to remedy the situation. So 1 issue down, 1 to go.
__________________
Aaron
Longshot_HN is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-14-2018, 01:16 PM   #17
Longshot_HN
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2018
Posts: 32
How to construct benches from schluter.

https://www.schluter.com/schluter-us...ements/benches

So I'd be making a simple rectangular 36" Long x 17" High x 15" Deep free standing box with a couple of foam supports in the middle like they show on Schluter's site using 2" Kerdi Board and thinset. Then I'd take the side of the box and attach it with thinset to the wall on the short side.

A glass panel would be mounted standing on the top of the backside of the bench which would serve as the back of the shower enclosure like a knee wall. Then at the far side of the bench opposite the wall where the first glass panel starts a 2nd panel would need to be mounted at 90 degrees. So that's alot of heavy glass that will probably need to be supported by the wall and the bench since it needs to make a 90 degree turn in an L configuration for the shower glass. I updated the sketch with bold black lines where the glass will be.

Can foam really support all that weight as if I made it out of wood? I prefer the foam to wood as a building material for my shower seat if it really can perform under load.
Attached Images
File Type: pdf 18.09.14 - Bathroom Layout.pdf (86.5 KB, 20 views)
__________________
Aaron
Longshot_HN is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-14-2018, 01:44 PM   #18
rmckee84
Moderator
 
rmckee84's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Southern Illinois
Posts: 2,943
Can it hold the weight? Yes, but if I was building it I would probably still have wooden framing wrapped with kerdi board. Only because I would prefer to have some solid anchor points. I am not saying that you can't build it only out of foam, I'm only stating that for my own piece of mind I would have a little framing inside.
__________________
Jack of most trades, master of none...
Ryan McKee
McKee Construction & Custom Tile
rmckee84 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-14-2018, 03:57 PM   #19
makethatkerdistick
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: North Texas
Posts: 667
I agree with Ryan. When heavy glass is involved, I'd go for something structural as well. You could still use Kerdiboard to build your bench. I like my Kerdi corner bench but when I knock on it, it does sound hollow. Not the most comforting thought to have heavy glass attached to it.
__________________
Wolfgang
makethatkerdistick is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-14-2018, 06:36 PM   #20
Longshot_HN
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2018
Posts: 32
So if I build a skeleton out of studs with plywood on top, I could put a 1/2 piece Kerdi Board on top with Kerdi screws and then skirt it with 1/2 inch Kerdi Board all around as if I were just hanging it on normal studs, just smaller. Kerdiband all around and then I should have a waterproof bench that is anchored. Sound good? Would I want to thinset the top piece in place to the plywood top or just screw it in?

For the curb, would you say that could just be made of Kerdi Board or just throw down a 2x4 stack and skin that in Kerdi Board too? May bear some weight depending on the glass install needs, but I don't think it as structurally significant as the bench. I'd rather just make the whole curb out of Kerdi Board because after all of the screw holes I'm going to essentially have to wrap the whole curb in a kerdi membrane which seems silly. Thoughts?
__________________
Aaron
Longshot_HN is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-15-2018, 08:44 AM   #21
Carbidetooth
Hmmmmm
 
Carbidetooth's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Boise, ID
Posts: 1,256
I make curbs from 2" Kerdi Board on edge, no problem holding up glass. Bench framing I use screws and PL Premium. Rock solid is what you want.
__________________
Peter

Silicone Sealant Ranger
Carbidetooth is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-14-2019, 08:06 PM   #22
Longshot_HN
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2018
Posts: 32
Hey everyone,

It's been a while and I'm finally about to lay Ditra for the floor tile in my master bath and I'm not sure how to leave space for a solid surface threshold in the doorway. I'm getting a whole bunch of surfaces made from Quartz including the doorway threshold. The vendor said that typically a doorway threshold from them will be 38 inches long (you cut to your exact length on site)4 inches across and 3/4 inches high. My tile is 3/8 thick and will come to that height when it meets the threshold which will be 3/8 of an inch taller than the tile. My wood floor is maybe 1/8 of an inch above where the Ditra layer will be so it will be most of the 3/4 below the threshold and have a much larger step up to the bathroom threshold.

When I tile my floor how much space between the tile and the adjoining wood surface do I need to leave? Will I need space on both sides of the threshold? I was planning on leaving .25 inches between the threshold and the tile, but do solid surface thresholds abut or lay over the wood side of the floor? What's normal and what options do I have to make it as seamless as possible? I don't want to lay my tile until I know how this transition takes place so I can plan for it and leave the right amount of space. Thanks for any guidance.
__________________
Aaron
Longshot_HN is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-15-2019, 06:22 AM   #23
ss3964spd
Registered User
 
ss3964spd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Fairfax, Va
Posts: 1,727
Send a message via Yahoo to ss3964spd
Aaron,

I'd think that your solid surface vendor could cut that threshold to whatever length you need, saving you the effort.

Thresholds typically have a bevel/chamfer/or round over on the long edges where it meets the adjacent flooring. Ideally the top of the adjacent flooring would land at the bottom of that bevel/chamfer/round over, leaving the top of the threshold 1/8" or so higher than the adjacent flooring. But in remodeling that ain't always possible.

Space between the threshold and flooring; on the wood side I'd leave at lease 1/16th", but not more than 1/8th." On the tile side just use whatever your grout joint spacing will be, but you'll want caulk in that joint, not grout.
__________________
Dan
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------
If I recall correctly my memory is excellent, but my ability to access it is intermittent.
ss3964spd is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-15-2019, 06:20 PM   #24
Longshot_HN
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2018
Posts: 32
Thanks Dan.
__________________
Aaron
Longshot_HN is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-18-2019, 05:34 PM   #25
Longshot_HN
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2018
Posts: 32
How do you tell the manufacture date of Mapei Thinsets? I got it from Lowes and I just want to make sure I didn't get some old stock before I use it. Mapei says thinsets are good for a year, but don't tell you when it was made.
__________________
Aaron
Longshot_HN is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-19-2019, 07:13 AM   #26
ss3964spd
Registered User
 
ss3964spd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Fairfax, Va
Posts: 1,727
Send a message via Yahoo to ss3964spd
No idea, but I'm sure there's a decipherable date code on the bag. Somewhere. We also have the good fortune of a Mapie representative frequenting this forum, maybe they'll chime in.

Still, I think the tile mortar stock at the big box stores turns over pretty frequently so I'd probably not be concerned. In fact, I wasn't concerned with all the bags I've recently purchased at HD.
__________________
Dan
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------
If I recall correctly my memory is excellent, but my ability to access it is intermittent.
ss3964spd is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-28-2019, 06:22 PM   #27
Longshot_HN
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2018
Posts: 32
So I put in a mud pan and Kerdied it and I used a pitch level that was not quite as precise as I thought. Something seemed off after I completed a flood test and I used a recheck the pitch by measuring the sides against the middle and it's a bit above where I'd like it to be. The pitch is about 3/8" per foot on the long runs and 3/4" on the short runs. The shower floor is 44" Long 33" across. I'm going to use glass mosaic penny rounds for the floor and I was thinking of using epoxy grout.

The penny round are not really translucent, but I figured on skim coating with white Kerabond (I also have access to Ditra Set if that's better) just to make sure I won't have any issues since they are glass, plus the skim coat should help the glass tile bond better then adhering to Kerdi directly which I was thinking of using Versabond for.

1. Do you think the slope will present a safety hazard with the slick penny rounds and epoxy grout combo?

2. Is the epoxy grout slick at all?

3. Could I screed the thin-set 1/8 of an inch thicker around the drain about a foot out in all directions to make the middle of the shower less pitched? (yes I know I'm not supposed to level with thin-set) I'd love it to be just a little close to the 1/4 inch per foot if it doesn't mean ripping it all out.

4. Is unsanded grout better than epoxy for grip underfoot?

My biggest concern is making sure my wife doesn't fall in the shower I built and never hearing the end of it. That could still happen even if I do it all perfect, but I want to make sure my odds are as good as can be.
__________________
Aaron

Last edited by Longshot_HN; 03-28-2019 at 06:26 PM. Reason: Forgot a detail
Longshot_HN is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-29-2019, 07:41 AM   #28
Longshot_HN
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2018
Posts: 32
Bump. Any one have any advice on my latest issue?
__________________
Aaron
Longshot_HN is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-29-2019, 08:13 AM   #29
cx
Da Home Builder
 
cx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Boerne, Texas
Posts: 87,387
1. All wet tile floors are slippery. Grout joints help alleviate that. Sanded grout helps more than other grouts. All wet tile floors are slippery.

2. Slicker than some other choices.

3. I suppose you could.

4. Maybe, but I wouldn't use either on a shower floor. The unsanded cementitious grout because of its inherent weakness and the epoxy because of the inability for the floor to dry through evaporation.

My opinion; worth price charged.
__________________
CX

Y'ALL NEW VISITORS READ THIS HERE!
cx is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-29-2019, 08:27 AM   #30
Longshot_HN
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2018
Posts: 32
Well it's glass tile so I'm concerned about scratching it with sanded grout. Epoxy I like because of the maintenance free nature of it, but I don't want to make the floor too slick. Not sure what to do on the grout choice.

For skimcoating any benefit on using a medium be morter like Ditra Set vs thinset mortar like Kerabond. I'm only feathering out to a max depth of +/- 1/8 of an inch around the drain? No worries about shrinkage in either case.
__________________
Aaron
Longshot_HN is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Stonetooling.com   Tile-Assn.com   National Gypsum Permabase


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Aaron's Master Bath Remodel - Done. AaronT Tile Forum/Advice Board 91 10-26-2011 02:58 PM
First tile and remodel project - 9x12 bathroom remodel and 6x6 sauna kyle242gt Tile Forum/Advice Board 17 08-25-2011 08:42 AM
Aaron's Bathroom Remodel aharrison99 Tile Forum/Advice Board 1 03-22-2010 10:38 AM
Aaron's shower project 82firebird Tile Forum/Advice Board 8 03-17-2010 05:37 AM
Aaron's Basement Bathroom Project aaronspang Tile Forum/Advice Board 20 04-15-2007 07:52 PM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 06:41 PM.


Sponsors

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright 2018 John Bridge & Associates, LLC