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Old 08-24-2018, 08:05 PM   #16
cx
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Have you actually measured any of your treated posts, David? I'm guessing they'll all be at least 3 5/8ths" square and by next year at this time they might be 3 1/2" or so.
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Old 08-24-2018, 09:54 PM   #17
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And do they weigh more or less than a hunnert pounds a piece?
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Old 09-10-2018, 11:52 AM   #18
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cut and seal question

I am wondering if the "cut and seal" is something I should invest in. I know that the PT wood only absorbs the chemicals so far and when you cut, you are exposing untreated wood. Does the Cut and Seal stuff work? Is it worth it over the long run? Anyone with experience WITH and WITHOUT the cut and seal?
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Old 09-10-2018, 06:16 PM   #19
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When you cut into a piece of “properly” pressure treated wood and the color doesn’t run all the way to the middle, it’s not due to a lack of treatment. It’s due to a lack of oxygen reaching that far into the wood to cause the discoloration. If you were to leave the cut open to the air, it would turn the same color as the outside surfaces of the wood.

The thought that treatment doesn’t go all the way into the wood is s common misconception. It was true decades ago, and certainly can still be true today if someone does a poor job or on lumber that’s been “treated to refusal”.

That being said, adding protection to the end grain does no harm and can add some additional life to parts that are weakly treated or parts that are exposed to rough conditions.

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Old 09-10-2018, 06:47 PM   #20
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That may be true if the pressure treated lumber is Southern Yellow Pine, where the wood is fairly porous. If the lumber is Douglas Fir, it is quite non-porous, and the treatment doesn't penetrate all the way. That is why PT DF is incised, to improve the depth of penetration. All cut surfaces of PT DF require field treatment with something like Copper Napthalate.

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Old 09-10-2018, 06:49 PM   #21
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Douglas Fir is indeed a poor wood to treat. The majority of treated wood is Southern Yellow Pine. It’s pretty easy to distinguish from other species, so if you’ve selecting wood from a pile, beware of other species.

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Old 09-10-2018, 09:26 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tonto
The majority of treated wood is Southern Yellow Pine.
That is going to vary geographically. In California, I've only ever seen pressure treated douglas fir.

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Old 09-10-2018, 11:57 PM   #23
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Probably because SYP is known in California to cause cancer, Wayne.

I've never seen treated wood other than SYP in my part of the country, including KDAT. Never gave it much thought, truth be known.
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Old 09-12-2018, 12:10 PM   #24
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Lumber distribution used to be a lot more regional that it is nowadays. Like CX, I live in the part of the country where Southern Yellow pine is grown, harvested and processed. And I've used mostly SYP in building my house and outbuildings. I get fir and hemlock studs, though, from Washington and Oregon.

And Tonto lives about as far north as you can get and not be Canadian, and he seems to be pretty familiar with Yellow Pine, which I know doesn't grow up his way.
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Old 09-14-2018, 04:23 PM   #25
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Does the stain treatment that you can buy from behr, example water proofing stain and sealer, have the same properties as the stuff they use for pressure treatment or will it work in the same manner of protecting cut wood from the elements? I do understand that the treatment might go all the way thru I'm just adding extra protection
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Old 09-14-2018, 10:50 PM   #26
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No, the two are quite different. But to answer...

Let’s talk a little about wood rot. Wood generally doesn’t rot if it’s dry all the time. And it generally doesn’t rot if it’s wet all the time. In fact, water itself doesn’t harm the wood at all. But when wood transitions from dry to wet and back to dry again, there’s a range of moisture level where any microorganisms on the wood that like to eat the cellular structure of wood are having a field day like an all-you-can-eat buffet. They cause rot by microscopically hollowing our wood. Rotted wood weighs less than non-rotted wood because wood material has been removed. Now, bugs are a little different story. They are happy eating dry wood, so long as they have a source of moisture close by.

Okay, on to your question. If you apply a waterproofer, it works to preserve the wood by trying to keep the wood dry all the time. It’s function, other than aesthetics, is to try keeping the microorganisms at bay. It only lasts for a year or two before needing another application.

But pressure treating works by being toxic to microorganisms and wood eating bugs. Generally, it matters not if the wood is wet or dry or whatever in between. When the microorganisms and bugs come a eatin’...they be a dyin’. It’s far more permanent than waterproofers.

So, will adding a waterproofer add some protection? All other things being equal, applying a waterproofer on a routine basis will assist in preserving a deck. But don’t expect it to do much for any wood parts that are in direct contact with the soil.

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Old 09-15-2018, 08:39 AM   #27
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Thorough answer, thank you.
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Old 09-18-2018, 03:11 PM   #28
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Is there a way of determining if pt wood is ready t accept a stain? I know that someone once said 6 to 8 weeks of drying out in a garage but I also heard at least a season or more. I'm going to be using behr water proofing stain and sealant on it.
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Old 09-18-2018, 03:53 PM   #29
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We always waited 2-3 weeks, but that was exposed to sun. I don’t have any idea how long it would take if it was stored in a garage.
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Old 09-18-2018, 04:28 PM   #30
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I would like to leave it out in the sun but if it rains then I am back at square one. It has been in my garage for about 1 month or so now.
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