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Unread 04-07-2021, 05:19 PM   #31
The77boudreau
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CX

I'll try to link an image of what I'm referring to. It's not a tile installation but same basic principle.


Snets

That is pretty much exactly how I've been loading my trowel but was just checking to see if there are better methods. And the bucket scoop CX was referring to came to mind as it's pretty much the same idea as a bucket scoop for drywall.

Anyways, I appreciate you taking the time to help. I would never have attempted this if I had not found this forum. There is a lot to setting tile and even more to properly constructing a functional and durable shower.
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Unread 04-07-2021, 06:39 PM   #32
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Quote:
I had originally planned on transitioning my floor to wall in an arc...think very dramatic coving.
Russ,

You lind of lost me too on that one too. Your "Arc" or "Coving" transition between floor and wall - are you talikng about using a profile such as Schluter Dilex?
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Unread 04-08-2021, 10:17 AM   #33
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Not sure if this will work correctly from my phone. It's also not the best picture of what I'm trying to describe. I believe I saw this on here originally but can't find it.

I want to do the floor wall transition, in tile, with a style similar to the two pictures I linked. I'm a little ahead of myself since I'm only 90% done with my current project but am fishing for any advice or tips. I hope I described it better this time.

https://www.google.com/search?q=curv...I0QreiYbqx2EOM

I can't resize it from my phone. Uuugh
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Unread 04-08-2021, 11:50 PM   #34
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That link no longer works. I did see, the first time I clicked on it, what you are referring to. It was a penny tile floor/curb with like a 6" radius convex transition from floor to wall.

Really, no idea how you would do that.

But, it looked pretty cool so let's figure it out. It's a substrate below all of that, no different than a floor or a wall - that's what you set tile to be it waterproofed or not. So that said, how would you construct such a convex substrate? Wood? Mud? (My bet)

Think about all of the rules and theories on beds and substrates talked about here, proven methods. Why would a Deck Mud pan built with a 6" concave radius up to the walls be different than a traditional Mud Pan? I don't know the answer. Someone will.

The photo I originaly saw was essentially a symetrically rounded curb with no square edges, a speed bump curb, maybe with some flat on top. Am I describing this right??
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Unread 04-09-2021, 06:22 AM   #35
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Yes sir, that is exactly what I was trying to describe....with much more elementary vocabulary...lol

I believe they used either fat mut or deck mud and a wine bottle for the curb shape. Pretty sure it was on here somewhere, and a few pros have done similar things and had input/tips.

Waterproofing with a surface membrane was why I was thinking of a standard shape shower construction and then mud the shape of floor wall transition on the dry side. Similar to how benches can be constructed above the membrane.
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Unread 04-09-2021, 07:12 AM   #36
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You might could do that, Russ. Either with fat mud or one of the proprietary patching materials made by the setting products manufacturers.

There would likely be some longer term holding of moisture in those built-up corners, but I'm not sure what the downside of that might be. Much would depend upon the particular tile you used, I suppose.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 04-09-2021, 01:11 PM   #37
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Plunge cutting question

If I split my tile when plunge cutting with wet saw...is that from too much pressure or did I crack it outlining with grinder? I understand it's hard to say without seeing what I did. In general, what could a noobie like me do to keep it from happening?

My saw table is clean and I dress my blade with a red stone. The blade currently is a p4 turbo mesh. I've found that not enough pressure causes chatter and chipping but I don't think I was forcing the saw with the plunge cut. Maybe I really need to baby it here...
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Unread 04-09-2021, 01:17 PM   #38
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Thank you CX. I couldn't put to words what I was trying to explain and I appreciate you and Snets trying to decipher it! I sort of came up with the idea in my head and figured it had been done before yet it's hard to find info on it or pics of many.
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Unread 04-10-2021, 11:40 AM   #39
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Does anyone have any tips for cutting out an opening for a delta multichoice valve? This maddening.....

I've tried straight plunge cutting and it will break during cuts....and evenly randomly without even touching it. I scored it with grinder and had same results going back to wet saw the bulk out. I drilled about a dozen holes around perimeter thinking they would stop a crack like you do with metal before a weld....same results, breaks instantly or randomly.

Any ideas at all? I may have to pay someone to make this last cut and to say I'm disappointed and on the verge of snapping is an understament.
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Unread 04-10-2021, 12:49 PM   #40
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Russ,

First: Don't snap.

Second, there are multiple ways to nail that hole, not sure if you tried:

1) A diamond hole saw
2) Diamond jigsaw blade
3) Angle grinder with a dry blade https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7p1i8IP5cu0 I have used this method successfully a couple times - slow and easy

I had good luck with the hole saw but it takes some time, keep it wet.

Search Youtube for some techniques. Different tiles have different tolerances for what makes them shatter. Good luck!
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Unread 04-12-2021, 05:06 AM   #41
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I was having a momentary breakdown there but got things under control. I appreciate the encouraging words Snets.

I did use a diamond hole saw and was successful at getting about 90% complete, and then it split out of nowhere just sitting untouched.I was unaware of diamond jigsaw blades, they could be helpful in the future. i also tried a continuous rim blade on angle grinder with same results as the hole saw and wet saw plunge cut...it would break while working or just sitting there.

I realized that anger and frustration were starting to take over so I walked away and took a break. I'm not one to get overwhelmed but this had me nuclear. Believe it or not, what worked was a segmented dry blade and using the side to grind the curve out. Holding the saw at a 45 degree angle, the radius of the angle grinder blade was almost perfect to the shape of the rough in valve!

I most always get the right tool for a job. Not only will the right tools help with quality work, but make it easier to get those results. I would never have thought to use a dry, segmented, masonry blade but it worked great. I wish I stepped back after the first couple unsuccessful attempts. That cutout probably took a couple years off my life it had me so worked.

Edit to Add: I was in the middle of cooling off and thinking when you posted before Snets. The method you posted ended up being what I tied out of desperation and I'll add that it works perfectly. I just got a chance to get back to the computer with work and house repairs and renovations.
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Unread 04-12-2021, 11:52 AM   #42
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Can bevel cuts bend blades or stress a saw causing increased runout? I don't have a high quality saw (rigid 7" slide top), but it was within 1/16 on long rips after adjusting it initially. I have to adjust it from time to time but it's been doing great with a Pearl p4 turbo mesh.

Now I'm having a battle trying to get accurate cuts in less than 12" rips after making about 80 linear inches of 45 degree bevels for my corner bench.
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Unread 04-12-2021, 07:53 PM   #43
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Bevel cuts can definately cause your blade to walk. If you can lower the blade and do the bevel in multiple passes it should work better.
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Unread 04-13-2021, 07:27 AM   #44
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Ohhhh, I understand now. Ive been leaving a sliver of factory edge with my bevels which I've read about here but misunderstood the approach. I thought it was meant to progress from the edge not depth of cut.

I appreciate your help Snets. I followed your link the other day and I must say your shower is really nice.
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Unread 04-18-2021, 11:57 AM   #45
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Grout question

I just have to say that custom prism grout is a dream to work with. I read so many horror stories on grouting that I was pretty nervous...more so than doing my flood test.

In fact, I only mixed 1/4 of the package to start using the given ratios, followed directions exactly, and proceeded in my planned area as quickly as possible. Plenty and I mean plenty of working time.

My only question would be whether or not it's acceptable to go back over it after it sets better to fill the joints fully? The tiles are rectified and have a very slight bevel (maybe 15 degrees) that is about 2-3 mm deep. I would like them just shy of being flush. I may be asking for trouble as far as durability and if so I'm sure someone will chime in.

Thank you in advance.
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