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Unread 02-24-2021, 07:59 PM   #61
cx
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1. Unlikely you need 2x12 header for a 32" span, but it won't hurt.

2. Hafta see what's loading that area of your wall to make a serious recommendation, but it's always a good idea to support whatever's sitting on the top plate where you're removing a support. I can't imagine you'd need a wall, but I'm not there, eh?

3. See #2.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 02-25-2021, 07:46 AM   #62
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If the ceiling is still drywalled find out where the joist/truss is located above the wall plate where you'll be removing that single stud. Given the 32" span there could be 2 of them up there. Measure the distance between the drywall (or bottom of the joist/truss if no drywall) and the subfloor about 6" away from the plane of the wall. Lets say 98". If drywall, you'll want to protect it, so cut a scrap of plywood or 2X4 to go against the ceiling, and a second one to sit on and protect the subfloor. Ideally the one on the floor will land on a floor joist, or you can cut the bottom one long so it spans from joist to joist. Subtract the thickness of those two scraps from the 98", then add approx 1/8".

Objective is for the 2X4 to be just long enough that it needs to be hammered into place and ending up mostly plumb, while not actually displacing the ceiling joist/truss. If you need to support two, just make the top and bottom 2X4's longer and use two 2X4's.

A double 2X12 is waaaay over kill for a 32" span, and they are likely to be cupped, making them more of a challenge. A double 2X6 will do the job, while allowing for more insulation and less thermal bridging. Good header span, here's an example: https://www.aacounty.org/departments...rSpanTable.pdf
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Unread 02-25-2021, 08:04 PM   #63
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The bathroom is gutted right now so no drywall to worry about. Please see attached picture of framing. I don't think there will be any issues. No joist sits over the center stud I want to head off and there are no spilts at the top plates there either (the line is the mark the electrician made to center the light). My niche will be twenty four inches, all the room I have given the location of the switch box.

So I'll drop my new studs on either side, one right next to the electrical box. I'll use my left over 2x10 if I've got enough otherwise I'll just get a 2x6 as the header. Do I need jack studs on the topside of the header up to the top plate? Or just the bottom side?

EDIT: I know I'll have to deal with the electric line in the top plate. But with the switch right there it should be simple enough to pull it and run it through a hole in the new joist.

Secondly, I was going to tile right against the back wall but that is where the stairs come up into a hallway and I am concerned about possible damage to the tile if someone struck the wall carrying something large up/down the stairs. So maybe a piece of 1/2 kerdi board as a buffer (whatever good it might do)?

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Unread 02-25-2021, 08:55 PM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eric
EDIT: I know I'll have to deal with the electric line in the top plate. But with the switch right there it should be simple enough to pull it and run it through a hole in the new joist.
Not really sure I understand the plan, but if you're putting a kind stud near the existing electric box, seems that all you'd need to do is notch the top of the stud to accommodate the wire. Appears to be enough slack for that - or maybe not.

Don't understand the part about a new joist, though.

And if your header is not gonna be up against the bottom of the top plates you'd technically need to add a jack to replace the removed stud.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 02-25-2021, 09:31 PM   #65
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Maybe I shoulda drawn a picture. Here is what I plan to do. I am putting a custom handmade tile which is 13 by 13 with the niche so its height is going to put it so I can't run the full 32 with the niche because of the swtich box. So I am going to keep the niche at 24" the largest I can get away with. Red are the new studs, blue the header and bottom of the niche, yellow the jack studs.

My questions was involving the green. Do I need jack studs where the green lines are?

The joist in the center is the one I will be cutting a portion out of.

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Unread 02-25-2021, 09:51 PM   #66
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You do not need the green jacks. You need to keep the top of the center stud that you're carving out for your niche as a jack.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 03-02-2021, 07:27 PM   #67
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How do y'all deal with nail plates under drywall and kerdi board where tile is going to go?

I put some in before the drywallers come Monday and they are thicker than I thought they'd be. Will they be an issue? My tile is 12x4 subway tile.

I could potentially remove the ones where the kerdi board will be and just mark and screw carefully. I don't trust the drywallers.
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Unread 03-02-2021, 08:49 PM   #68
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Eric, in critical places I frequently chisel those nail plates into the studs such that they are flush. Bit of a PITA, but sometimes well worth the effort. You're not looking for furniture quality mortises, just depressions sufficient to prevent the plate making a bulge.

Your code compliance inspector will not look kindly upon your mark and screw carefully program and I'd hafta agree with him.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 03-12-2021, 09:23 PM   #69
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Drywallers... actually it wasn't too bad but they left a mess despite my best efforts. I swept and vacuumed the subfloor but there is still drywall residue. I wiped it with a damp rag but that didn't make much difference. At this point, once I get the chunks up will the residue have any effect on the ditra install later down the road?
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Unread 03-12-2021, 09:28 PM   #70
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Can't see it from here, Eric, but you gotta get all the drywall compound and dust off that subfloor. One of the few good attributes to drywall mud is that it cleans off anything with water. Use as much as you need. Frequently more water than you really want to use and a shop vacuum are helpful.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 03-12-2021, 09:56 PM   #71
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Ok. One of my biggest concerns was the amount of water on the subfloor needed to get the dust up. Sounds like i really need to "mop" the subfloor and then just use fans to dry it out afterwards.
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Unread 03-12-2021, 10:03 PM   #72
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I'd strongly recommend the wet/dry shop vac to remove the water.
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Unread 03-15-2021, 06:44 PM   #73
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Time for me to start thinking about tiling, finally!

1) leveling systems. The spin doctor system seems like a good one to me. Question is, is it worth the money for my wall tiles given expense. 12x4 white ceramic subway tile with 33% offset and contrasting grout (Ive done a subway backslash in contrasting grout so I know the care needed).

2) How many would be needed for about 150 sq ft. of tile? This assumes the tiling will be done in stages.

3) thinset mortars... Versabond seems to be highly recommended here. I've got to place ditra, kerdi, 12x24 floor tile, shower floor tile, the wall tile, brick curb, and quartz curb tops. Will versabond work for all of it or will I need different mortars?

4) Is versabond no sag? I've got the wall tile and will need to set 4x4 on the ceiling above the shower of the guest bath while I'm at it.
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Unread 03-16-2021, 09:12 AM   #74
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1) I used and liked the SD system. But if your 12X4's are flat I'd likely not use any system at all.

2) For 150 ft2 of 12X4's? All of them.
The "caps" come in a box of 100. The spacers come in a box of 250. The "anti friction disk's come in a box of 100. The caps are the most expensive, though reusable, component. The disks are relatively inexpensive and also reusable. To keep costs down buy 1 box of caps and disks, and 1 box of spacers. If you use all the caps in once setting session you'll have a pretty good idea if you'll need a second box of spacers. Amazon delivers pretty quick.

3/4) Versabond will work for all of it. It is not a no-sag though. Available in white and gray, and also in a LFT version. 4X4's on the ceiling with it should be no problem.
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Unread 03-18-2021, 07:41 PM   #75
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Getting ready to purchase my shower floor tile. It comes in 24 sq ft cartons. My shower floor will be apprx. 3x5. The tile is 2x2 hexagon mosaic porcelain sheets. Any reason I would need more than 24 sq. ft.? I've not worked with tile that size and shape before.
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