Kevin's Master Bath Remodel

[cz9h3d]

Time to redo my 21yo master bath (due to ugly almond tile, as well as a water breach in the shower).

Although I've done some tiling, due to the size of this project I'm going to get some quotes to likely have it done by a pro (including a Kerdi shower, or something of the like).

No major location changes for shower/tub/toilet, plans include:
-Ikea Godmorgon vanity: probably a 47" w/2 sinks, or maybe two cabinets, and a tall cabinet next to it (storage, yea!)
-Standalone tub (60") where the current one is
-Some minor electrical (definitely a light in the shower, maybe a couple cans overhead)
-Minor plumbing: adjust one of the sink feeds/drain as required for the new cabinet, wall-mount faucet for tub, tub drain adjustment as required.

Questions:
-Prep for quotes: I assume I'll let the pros tell me what they want done prior to their work (i.e. hardi backer, etc) - Right? Still have a lot of almond tile to remove, so I assume I'll just destroy the cement board on the floor that I believe it is tiled over. Trying to keep a sink/toilet usable until we really get the work moving.
-Tub/Shower separation: Can build a low wall with tile, and glass partition on top, or do an all glass wall. Any thoughts from the forum, who have done a lot of these?

It's going to be challenging to pick our tile, as I envision there will be A LOT of it. Want a modern look, so envisioning 12x24 on the floor (some type of cool gray pattern), but then lost at what to do with walls (how much on which walls), as well as shower..... but I'll get there. Probably some questions coming!

thanks,
Kevin

P.S. I'm going to ask Jaz for a quote, as he's local to me, and a Kerdi advocate.

[cz9h3d]

Actually, looking at my last closeup of the current floor - is that a layer of plywood over my subfloor? I guess I'll find out when I start to make that mess. If it's screwed down (which I'd assume), won't it be a royal pain to get the tile and plywood up??

[Houston Remodeler]

Kevin,

We like to receive the bathroom in bare studs so we can make any framing corrections, tighten the corners, add blocking and sistering, make any plumbing changes, fix the insulation......

I'd remove the upper plywood and tiles. It will give you an opportunity to check the planks, screw them down well and make any height adjustments once the final tile is selected.

[dhagin]

Jaz can answer these questions when he looks at the job; he knows his stuff and has been at it a long long time. Coordinate with him, or whoever the contractor is, to divi up the work and leave a job that will be easy for a guy to start from.

[cz9h3d]

Paul:
I'm looking to hire out the tiling, not the entire job - which I think is what your comment refers to? Or does a tiler prefer to work from the studs to ensure everything is straight, etc?

I'll give Jaz a call tomorrow and get him over here to tell me what he would want.

Going for a contemporary / modern look, and trying to do it without spending a ton of money. Way too many tile options, thinking I may have to go work with a designer at a tile shop.

Here are some renderings I worked up today. My wife likes the "wood-look" tiles for the floor - not sure if I'm there yet. Limited tile options in the software I'm using - but the cabinets are correct (can't believe all the 3D elements you can download that people have made for sketchup). BTW, I used HGTV Home Design.

[Houston Remodeler]

Kevin,

I listed my own personal preferences. As a full service contractor we perform more aspects of the job than most of the Pro's here who specialize in tile alone.

Is best to speak with Jaz, or the contractor you hire to get specifics to your particular situation. Its common for a contract to have crisp, clear instructions on what a contractor is responsible for and what is out of the scope of work.

The easier you make the installers job the better results you will get and usually for less money as there will be fewer headaches.

[cz9h3d]

I'm moving along (slowly), and the wife and I have figured out our basic design.
On the main wall with the sinks/cabinest/toilet, we're interested in getting a ledge stone type of look (going to the ceiling). For reference, the floors will be a charcoal (12x24) the walls are a very light gray (12x24), and we'll use some glass mosaic sparingly in the shower. A modern, contemporary look. We've learned quickly that if you can find tile that Lowes or HD carries that meets your needs, you can easily save 50% or more.

We found the attached as a stone-look porcelain that goes very nicely with everything, and a very good price. My only concern is that it may look "cheap" on the wall, as it doesn't have too much depth (not a bad thing). And I certainly don't want the seams to stand out.

I could go to a real ledge stone, of course at a higher price. And seems much more of a pain in regards to mounting cabinets on it.

[cz9h3d]

I've been putting of this project for a few years - and now I need to sell the house, so someone is going to get a nice, new bathroom (I hope).

Space is second floor and about 12' x 8', and all but toilet and pedestal sink have been demoed.

My Challenge: The 48x36 shower was originally a mud pan. I bought an Aston frameless glass enclosure w/acrylic base, mainly as it will be much easier for me, and the appearance will go well with the other modern elements. BUT, it's a side drain, and my current location is "sorta center". I say "sorta" because it's a couple inches off center. This is why I kept putting things off.
My options:
(1) Open up the floor and see what I have, move the drain over 18" or so. Depending on what things look like, go through a joist, box a joist, etc. The house was built in 1992.
(2) Use a Kerdi (or similar) system and create my own base/curbs.
(3) Hire someone
Note that since I'm moving, I don't need the 30 year waterproofing system, so RedGuard and cement board was the cheaper path I'm considering with a pan.

I though about buying a new center drain pan, until I realized my drain is a couple inches off center.
I've reached out to some people, but I've waited too long, and don't want to wait until August.
So my plan is to open the floor, see what I got, and go from there!

How sound is this? I'm pretty handy, have a brother who is really good, and need to get this done fast.

[cx]

Welcome back, Kevin.

Thought you just re-did your master bath a few years ago.

Originally Posted by Kevin

So my plan is to open the floor, see what I got, and go from there!

Let us know what you find.

[cz9h3d]

ah crap - I knew I should have created a new ID! No - I've procrastinated for what, 3-4 years now??

[Kman]

Originally Posted by cz9h3d

I've procrastinated for what, 3-4 years now??

Six.

But who's counting?

[Elkski]

Is this the same bath? Or a different one? Either way good luck and get er done!

[cz9h3d]

Yes - sadly it is the same bath.
I'll open up the floor tonight/tomorrow (I work 300 miles from home now, great timing, eh?) to see what moving the shower drain 18 inches might entail. Seeing what's involved may drive my execution - but generally does moving the drain and using my existing acrylic pan make more sense, than sinking more $$ into a Kerdi system (not to mention having to then tile my curbs and have an appropriate tile strategy).

[cz9h3d]

So I did hire a contractor to do my bathrooms - ha! The good news - I'm liking the design I put together - and parts I collected over 5 years (and it's not out of date). Note the shower has undulated tile (not a bad tile job).

The bad news - my Ikea cabinets confused my "traditional" guy. At the finish line, and he raised the drains in the wall waaaaaaay too high (didn't need to be raised at all) Now instead of finishing today, he's trying to see if there is an easy fix, or whether that back wall (with tile on it) needs to be torn open. I'm not a happy camper. This is the only thing holding back putting my house on the market. The 3 week job is now on week 8.

[Carbidetooth]

What's left to check? The rough-in is higher than bottom of sink. Gravity will always prevail.

May be fairly easy depending on how vent is run, but will require some working room.