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Unread 07-02-2019, 07:35 PM   #121
makethatkerdistick
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With Spectraloc, grout color has no effect on staining since the part C sand is pre-colored. It's not something that could bleed into the mixed-up emulsion. Hence the great color consistency of that grout. My marble was greyish-brownish and turned a hue more yellow/warm, which blended in with the rest of my tile installation. I wouldn't think that black marble is prone to visible stains.
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Unread 07-05-2019, 06:00 PM   #122
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I bought the marble at the tile shop. They insisted on mounting it with epoxy instead of thinset. I didn’t buy any, but they still insisted even when I brought up the idea that black marble might be more resistant to discoloration. They seemed pushy anyway.

On that note, I still need to figure out what pookey to adhere this black marble accent strip to the wall with. I’m still leaning towards just going the usual route, 4xlt for thinset and grout with spectralock. The pencils are 3/8 wide and the tile will be cut into ~1+1/4” strips. Is this gonna hold all that up fine, or should I be considering a more expensive epoxy for holding reasons in addition to preventing any unlikely discoloration?
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Unread 07-05-2019, 07:43 PM   #123
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Not a fan of "The Tile Shop" either. I've had my own experiences there. I don't think they necessarily supply better products in general (as they think they do) but one can find some more appealing designs there. I bought my accent tiles there. Their prices are high. When one really presses an associate for more critical knowledge, I found the advice I received to be on par with that from other chain tile stores (such as F&D). In other words, far below the knowledge ordinarily found on this forum.

I wouldn't use epoxy resin to set those marble accent strips. Seems like overkill. A good modified thinset will do the job. I assume the back of your tile is slightly rough/unpolished to provide an adhesive surface to the mortar. For my marble tiles I used Flexbond which did a great job. Not familiar with the mortar you mentioned but as long as it is modified it should be good. You can also go over the manufacturer's spec sheet and see what they say can be bonded with that product. It should list natural stone.
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Unread 07-08-2019, 07:17 PM   #124
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Thinset it is. Slowly making more progress... Somehow I managed to miss the mark on mitering the tile above the niche. Any suggestions on how to finish that miter (its mounted)? I have a ridgid multimax, maybe use a a tile cutting blade?

In my search for polishing the exposed marble edges I found "Mira Dust" that I can get locally for a reasonable price. I took the the marble edge to 3000 grit and it is really close, but still looks honed, and not exactly near the factory polished side. Any experience doing this stuff, or something similar that actually worked?
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Unread 07-08-2019, 09:40 PM   #125
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Polishing is tricky. I've used my DeWalt variable speed polisher with diamond disks up to, I believe, 6000 grit for a decent polish on granite once. For that ultimate glossy finish you need to find some sort of polishing paste with a buffing wheel. Never done that last step so can't recommend a good brand. Can it be done by hand? Perhaps, but it will be more painful.

Finishing and polishing natural stone is a special skill and trade, I think. My tip would be to get it as close as you reasonably can and move on. Otherwise, you'll have to spend time and money on perfecting this.
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Unread 07-09-2019, 06:38 PM   #126
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Lenny, it took me a few minutes to find your miter. I guess you're talking about inside the niche where you didn't miter the tile far enough. Since it's already bonded, I'd use a Dremel or similar tool to reach that tight corner. If that's not it, explain if you don't mind.
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Unread 07-09-2019, 07:47 PM   #127
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Nice work so far, I like the layout and the choice of tile.

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Unread 07-09-2019, 08:03 PM   #128
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Second Davy’s idea of a porcelain bit for a dremel. Go slow, and it may take a while
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Unread 07-10-2019, 08:37 AM   #129
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Davy, I think you found it. I see what you mean, its tough to find. For clarity the green outline is the correct miter, red outline I need to finish. I forget the niche was ~1" off center. I only mitered an extra half inch originally.

Yup, the plan of attack involves slow, anxiety, praying, and hopefully not cursing.

I only have a dewalt rotary tool (like a rotozip for drywall) I hope that can accept dremel style cutting discs.
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Unread 07-10-2019, 02:30 PM   #130
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Got the miter finished, without too much cursing. Now I can't decide on the inside niche layout/order. Maybe I am over thinking this. Haven't even considered the shelf/accent running through the niche yet.

1) Can I use no gap for grout at the corners, or use some minimal gap, say 1/32? Ir is it necessary to have at least 1/16 so I can use spectralock as I originally planned? Do you even grout niche corners, or are they treated like changes of plane, in which case, use caulk which has no gap requirement?

2) Is there a most visually appealing way to orient the seams via selecting a certain sequence such as back first, then bottom, then sides?

3) Is there an easiest order ("margin for error" wise), such as bottom first, then sides, then back?

I'm pretty overwhelmed with the combinations so far, and its hard enough to mock these up without proper grout gaps.

Attached are some quick attempts at a mockup.

So far I am leaning towards: Back, then bottom, then sides, but not by much.
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Unread 07-10-2019, 02:58 PM   #131
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1. Lenny, you must have a gap between tiles, whether you plan to grout or caulk. In a niche, I tend to grout everything, but technically you would use a flexible sealant at the changes of plane. To be effective, you would actually want a 1/8th" gap for the flexible sealant where you could get by with your proposed 1/16th" gap for grout.

2. Dealer's choice.

3. Well, you're not gonna make any errors, right? But I generally do the back first, then bottom, then sides. Be sure you slope the bottom to drain. Doesn't take much, but it must slope the usual minimum of 1/4" per foot.

If you don't want to cut the slope into the bottom of your sides, you could do the sides first and then the bottom, but I prefer to have the joints in the sides rather than in the bottom, just as I prefer that at the shower floor.

The decisions are entirely aesthetic in nature. So long as you maintain the required gaps, you can put them wherever you want them.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 07-12-2019, 07:36 AM   #132
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Aesthetics aside (or aesthetics included... ), any practical considerations for choosing between these floor colors? Still haven't decided on grout color (to use one, or a combination), but it will be light gray, white, or black.

There looks like there are two whites. One has a light spread of black sprinkles, and the base white color of it is slightly off white from the pure white version. They are all through body. I might even andonize/powdercoat the drain.

Included a partially finished reference. I think I am biased towards the gray speckle, or black.
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Unread 07-12-2019, 07:56 AM   #133
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One vote for dark tile (last picture) with a black or color matched PC drain.

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Unread 07-12-2019, 01:43 PM   #134
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That is what I am leaning towards, especially since I have half a full unit of spectralock sterling silver grout left over from the floor. I think it is a light enough gray to really make it pop. Not too sure how I feel about white grout anywhere in here really, even if it is stain proof spectralock.
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Unread 07-12-2019, 02:26 PM   #135
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I like the lighter-colored one on the floor
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