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Old 12-10-2010, 11:03 AM   #76
Dayo A.
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We're going with multicolor natural slate 12"x12"x10mm tiles, and we want gray grout. It's from Lowes and was $1.97 a tile. I can't find a link to the exact tile.
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Old 12-11-2010, 01:05 PM   #77
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Horrible news?

I soaked some of the tiles in water overnight. The stone didn't dissolve, but the glue holding the 2" tiles to the mesh did.

Does that mean the floor will come apart whenever we take a shower, or will the sealer prevent that?
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Old 12-11-2010, 01:14 PM   #78
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Don't panic. That glue is designed to dissolve (and not hold that well in the first place so you can pull tiles off if you need to). The thinset between the tile and the floor holds it down and the grout stabilizes it.
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Old 12-13-2010, 06:49 PM   #79
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I have a bunch of tiles stuck on the shower walls , and I just cut the tile that goes around my closet flange (camode flange) on the second try!

Wet saw + shallow slices from both sides = decently round hole.

I'll post pictures next time I take a slake break.

I don't usually use those little smiley face things, but I'm pretty darned exited about how it's looking. I just wish it wasn't so time consuming.
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Old 12-13-2010, 09:11 PM   #80
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Looking good so far Dayo. As far as the grout I would use Ultra color from Mapei, or PermaColor by Laticrete. They are both good cement grouts, but better than the standard grande portland cement grouts. Custom makes one called Prism I believe, but I haven't used that one so I can't testify to how good it is.

I wouldn't use an epoxy with slate.
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Old 12-13-2010, 10:35 PM   #81
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Thanks Levi, I'll look at what I bought and make sure it's not epoxy. It mixes up with water, so I would assume it's not epoxy, but I'll check.

Here are the pictures as promised:
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Old 12-13-2010, 10:52 PM   #82
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Levi,

I got 25 pounds of Polyblend natural gray sanded, from Homer; the selection was limited.

This is all I know about it: " Polyblend is polymer-modified for strength mix with water for any tile or stone installation. Protected by MoldGard Technology. Exceeds ANSI A118.6 specifications"

Good?

I also picked up a quart of Miracle Seal Super Seal. It seemed right. I don't know. Is it right?

I'm only 1/2 mile from Homer, so I'll take it back if anything is less than ideal.

I also got Polyblends sanded Ceramic Tile Caulk. It says it's siliconized (whatever that means). Should I return it and get plain old silicone?
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Old 12-14-2010, 08:55 PM   #83
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The caulk is fine, but if you are putting it in your shower it wouldn't hurt to get a color matched 100% sylicone. Polyblend is basic portland cement grout, no problems there it's just not the uppergrade stuff. I used it for years though.

I would use a stone enhancer for your slate instead of what you got. Take that back and order Miracle's "Mirra Matte" online. You won't be able to get it at homers. A stone enhance will bring out the colors in your slate. Take a sponge and get half of one piece of tile wet. If you like the look of the wet side better use a color enhancer, if you like the dry side better use a normal sealer like impregnator or 511 porus plus both sealers from Miracle.
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Old 12-15-2010, 01:29 AM   #84
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Cool thanks!

I did a couple things,and tossed about 15 more pieces up today:
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Old 12-15-2010, 07:20 PM   #85
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Came across this thread while looking for info on Roman tubs - didn't see this linked to yet...and figured it might be half way helpful.

www.ctioa.org/reports/fr32.html

www.ctioa.org/reports/fr65.html

They are reports from the Ceramic Tile Institute dealing with the code issues relating specifically to Roman tubs. Both look to be fairly old sources...though I can't be certain. I was curious whether or not any products exist along the lines of the Kerdi curbs/trays or other tiled shower helpers.

I am looking at doing a similar project soon, so will be following your work here. Mostly I am interested in seeing how you end up dealing with the tub itself.
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Old 12-17-2010, 03:20 AM   #86
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Gee Whiz, that's an intresting read Joe. Thanks for posting. They don't mention anything about liquid membranes, and I wonder if such a thing existed when that was written.

I had considered building a fiberglass liner on site, but decided that would be a last resort, to be used in the event of a leak. In which case I would have to pull the tiles, glass it, and re-tile. The instructions on the Hydroban say:

"Do not install directly over single layer wood floors, plywood tubs/showers/fountains or similar constructs. For such cases, use Laticrete 3701 Fortified Mortar Bed;or, Laticrete 226 Thick Bed Mortar gauged with Laticrete 3701 Mortar Admix over mechanically fastened lath. Install membrane once mortar has hardened and is sufficiently dry."

I expect it'll work, but what do I know, I work on cars.

Anyway, I have a little more done than it shows, but here's where I was when I snapped the last few photos:
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Old 12-17-2010, 03:58 AM   #87
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I found a few before pictures. The one with the kid in it was 2008, and the ones with the cats were 2005:
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Old 12-17-2010, 07:03 AM   #88
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Thanks for fixing the links.

Similar boat as you are in.

Although I have done a lot of tile work, I am not a tile expert. I am comfortable working with a lot of materials, and the wife wants a deep soaking tub of some form. The various standalone tubs (pedestals and claw foots) would actually focus more of a load in a smaller area based strictly on the water load. With the Roman tub I can spread the load across a wider area - but if I need to use a few hundred pounds of concrete to make it...it sort of makes the effort pointless.

Now, when it comes to the issue at hand - I have used XPS foam as the forms for doing fiberglass work as well as as a substrate to receive a gunite like coating. The other thing that I have been contemplating is a method that I have seen used for doing indoor fish ponds...sort of like this set up:

pondarmor.com/blog/?p=7

I have built a couple myself and seen a few more. None of them have had any leak problems so far, and they don't even have the added protection of tile or other coating (other than a fiber and urethane fillet in the corners). It follows the CTIOA method to some level, however as opposed to coating the structure with an on-site concrete mix...you use the cement boards.
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Old 01-13-2011, 03:05 PM   #89
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I don't think I saw you mention using an overflow for your tub, that should be some sort of code requirement right? Use these for your tub. I was thinking about a roman tub a few years back but never did it. Well, I haven't remodeled the master bath yet so I still might. You can special order these from Schluter. I never got a price, surely they are expensive....

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Old 01-16-2011, 11:12 PM   #90
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All this talk about codes is making me almost rethink the whole tub idea (or at least the idea of posting it on the internet).

In the meantime I decided to buy a router. All I really knew about routers up until the other day was that they allow multiple computers to connect to the internet.

This router however, does not...
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