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Unread 10-27-2010, 03:02 PM   #16
tilelayer
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You can use either drain for the liquid water proofing shower. I myself would use Kerdi though.

If your following that video to mud your floor make sure you overlap you wire by 2" something he failed to do.
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Unread 10-28-2010, 10:41 PM   #17
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Ok thanks for the tips. I've also carefully read every post in the Geueze shower thread (up to page 36 so far), and it's looking like Hydro Ban and the Kerdi drain are pretty much set in stone for my shower and tub plan.

I'll probably use a clamping drain for the tub overflow because it's not so wide. I'm looking at around two gallons of HB, two kerdi drains, and one clamping drain.

I seriously considered full Kerdi lining on a mud bed, but does anyone do Kerdi fabric tubs? I'm thinking it's not something thats done, but what do I know, I'm a noob. I just worry about water working it's way through 2" of unmodified thinset, then "viola!" giant open seam. Thoughts? Opinions?

I asked the nice helpful lady at the Kerdi/laticrete/tile store if she's ever heard of a Kerdi fabric lined tub or swimming pool today, and she answered with a definite, "No!". Now I saw some sweet pools in the Hydroban videos, so I'm thinking that's the stuff I want.

I just now finished tying the drains into the 3" toilet pipe below the downstairs half bath. I'm beat. Ametuer plumbing pictures will be up later...
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Unread 10-28-2010, 10:44 PM   #18
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Dayo

I have been doing kerdi for over 12 years now. Never any failures. The seams don't leak. You can kerdi the whole tub, but the folds would be somewhat tricky. Hydroban would be a ton easier for a newb. Get yerself one of them film gauges from Laticrete to be 100% sure you have the right thickness of hydroban on there.
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Unread 10-29-2010, 04:07 PM   #19
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Paul- Thanks for the input, I just didn't know if the seams could remain submerged indefinitely. I build cars, not showers, so I hadda ask.

Other question: What do you guys think about Lowes 12"x12" $1.97 per sf natural slate tiles for a shower wall, curb, and bathroom floor? Is that asking for trouble? They seem so uneven (thickness and width) and look difficult to set in straight rows.

I sugested porcelain "slate look" tiles, but my gf just gets mad at me whenever I bring that up.

Can you guys tell me pros/cons, tips for how to make it work if I do have to use real slate?
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Unread 10-29-2010, 04:12 PM   #20
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The cheap stuff at HD / Lowes is just that : Cheap. I'd use other words but then I'd be filling the cuss jar.

Look at the sides, its already flaking apart in the box. What do you think will happen on your floor? When it starts falling apart, then the GF will 'forget' she picked it out and blame you anyway.
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Unread 10-29-2010, 04:21 PM   #21
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That is cheap slate but I personally like the slate a lot, especially with a color enhancer on there like mirra matte. And if you set it good and grout it good it should hold up seing as how it's not completely submerged. But since this stuff is cheap it will be mcuh harder to set correctly. However to do a natural stone installation your floor has to meet a much stiffer deflection ratings, and you will have to have 2 layers of plywood.

-As for the different thickness and squareness of slate that is just what you deal with. You are going to have lippage and different size/wavy grout joints with slate. I always use 1/4" spacers with slate and I never go bigger than 3/16" for anything else.

-If you can talk her into a slate lookalike or something different you will prolly be better off.
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Unread 10-29-2010, 04:55 PM   #22
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She wants the natural redish multicolor rough textured tiles, the floor is concrete on wood (2nd floor), but the slab is anything but pristine. I'm texting your responses to her phone as the come in because she, "doesn't want to talk about it now".
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Unread 10-29-2010, 05:06 PM   #23
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You have a whole lota work there anyway Dayo. May want to check your joists and enter the info into our defleto meter. What you need is joist material/size/unsupported span put them numbers into the deflecto meter up top and see what you come up with. I'm guessing you will have to do some fixin of your floor before you start to build your shower or tub, and I know you will have to put in a lot of work to that floor if you are going to go with a natural stone install.
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Unread 10-29-2010, 05:07 PM   #24
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least you got you a good shop vac there. You're gonna need it, and maybe some fine filter bags also
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Unread 10-29-2010, 05:11 PM   #25
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And here are some shots of the plumbing. It's a panorama ;-)
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Unread 10-29-2010, 05:18 PM   #26
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can you take some smaller pictures next time

your prolly doing this from your phone, but I have a pretty big monitor and I sure can't see them plumbing pictures too well
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Unread 10-29-2010, 05:19 PM   #27
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Yeah the end joist is scary. I plan to sister in studs along three of my vertical 2x4s then scew in a horizontal support underneath that joist. That's where the tub was installed in 1965. It leaked into the wall ever since it looks like.

I suppose I'm jumping the gun asking about what tile to use, but it came up, and like you said, the deflection rating of the floor depends on it.
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Unread 10-29-2010, 05:19 PM   #28
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At least it's all exposed in the basement though - ceiling too that will mike things a little easier for ya
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Unread 10-29-2010, 05:24 PM   #29
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Sorry. I resized it so little because it's been morphed into one long photo, and the pixels are limited to 800x600. Is deflecto rating affected by the fact that there's 4-5 inches of concrete on the floor?
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Unread 10-29-2010, 05:28 PM   #30
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The downstairs bathroom ceiling is pre-collapsed, so I can work under my upstairs bathroom floor more easily. But unfortunately I can't do the repairs from in the basement.
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