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Old 07-09-2006, 08:04 PM   #1
tripdaddy
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Help me with my shower build please

Greetings. I have obtained a lot of advice from this board over the years and have done a lot of reading about building (re-building) my shower but have put it off long enough. I started the demo today. I got out all the old tile except the floor at this point. That will be attempted tomorrow I hope. I do have a few questions now and probably plenty more to come:

1. Does anyone know where I can get some dam corners in the houston area? I will mail order if necessary, but was hoping to get my hands on some soon. If I do have to order them, what is a fast company that can get them to me ASAP?

2. I purchased an Oatley drain but have concerns about installing it. I am assuming that the drain currently in there is glued to the PVC drain pipe. If so, I assume that I have to dig down into the slab to get access to replace it???? Is it that difficult or is this something I am likely not to have to do?

Thanks in advance.
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Old 07-09-2006, 08:13 PM   #2
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1I have no idea...2If the current drain is an Oatey pan type, you may be able to take out the floor, and unbolt it,after you remove the tile and mud from around it..in other words you'll leave the base of the the existing drain there, and bolt the new top onto the old base,while putting in the new pan.
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Old 07-09-2006, 08:34 PM   #3
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1. Dunno. John Bridge is the onliest tile guy I know in Houston and right now he's in Yellowstone, Wyoming, or thereabouts.

Order you some from Noble. Turn-around time's pretty quick according to reports here.

Be sure to order the correct material to match your pan material. Noble sells both kinds.

2. What Stoner said. Or chip a little concrete, cut the pipe from the inside, pewt a coupling and short piece of pipe, and pewt your new drain.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Old 07-10-2006, 03:28 PM   #4
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Well I found some dam corners here locally, but they were a vinyl material (so they say). The guy at the plumbing store said they would work on a PVC pan, but I am leary without the approval from some of you gurus here. Anyone help me on this?

Additionally, do I need dam curbs on the outside edges of the curb or just the inside edges?
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Old 07-10-2006, 03:32 PM   #5
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Hi Steve, the PVC pan liner is fine. Make sure you do a preslope first.
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Old 07-10-2006, 05:02 PM   #6
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Maybe I didn't ask my question right, but really what I am asking is if these 'vinyl' dam corners will work with a PVC liner. My plan is to use the PVC liner, but wondering if these dam corners will work. These corners are blue and look like the material that you would repair a child's swimming raft out of. (only thicker)...not the rubbery material that resembles the Oatey PVC pan liner material.
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Old 07-10-2006, 05:05 PM   #7
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Hi Steve, I'm not sure maybe someone else might be. I always make my own with the pan liner.
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Old 07-10-2006, 05:37 PM   #8
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I have thought about doing that. Do you have any pictures that show that? Or can you explain it to me in the best way you can in written text?
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Old 07-10-2006, 05:45 PM   #9
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I cut a piece about 6" square, then slice the middle half way, with the slice facing in, put your piece on the curb and up the jamb, then wrap the two flaps one down and the other on the wall. You need to cut your pan nice and straight along the jamb so your piece that wraps the curb is tight to the jamb. Use the glue for PVC pan liner to glue it in.
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Old 07-12-2006, 04:38 PM   #10
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New question/problem:

I got the demo done down to the slab (which is not level by the way)....The existing drain is a bolt down like and Oatey. My plan was to just reuse the bottom flange and replace the top flange and drain insert. However, when I went to unbolt the old top flange, two of the heads sheared off and I have been unable to get the bolts out even with vise grips. So my question is this: can I get by with only two bolts? If not, what are my options. I REALLY don't want to have to bust through the slab to replace it if possible. Plus, the P-trap is not that deep and I am concerned if I would even have enough PVC to fit a new piece on.

HELP!
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Old 07-12-2006, 08:20 PM   #11
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Old 07-12-2006, 09:49 PM   #12
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I really don't recommend you install that liner with only two bolts in the drain flange, Steve. Those plastic top flanges just aren't rigid enough to clamp securely without at least the four bolts it came with.

You can try to drill out the broken bolts. Takes a little finesse, and even if you're good it doesn't always work. Worst case you might be able to poke that brass insert out of the bottom flange and put a bolt up through the hole afixed with some JB Weld or some such. I've never done that, but we've had reports of it racheere in this space. I can think of some other creative fixes, too, but keep in mind that if your repair isn't successful, you're gonna get a leak in that pan. On a slab on grade, maybe you'll never know. Then again, a few years of water running down that hole next to the drain pipe might attract all sorts of problems.

If you can't figger a way to get a minimum of four bolts in there, I really think you gotta bite the bullet and change out the drain.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Old 07-12-2006, 10:02 PM   #13
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I tried to boar them out with one of those extractor bits and ended up ripping out the entire brass insert that you speak of on one of them, but the other has a broken bit right down the center of it so if I plan to do the same on that one, I will need a larger extractor is seems. I do like the idea of putting a bolt up from underneath. I suppose a large washer and some JB weld would hold it secure enough to tighten it down with a nut on the top side??? I guess the next step after that is to apply a LOT of silicone caulk on the underside of the pan to seal it really well to to bottom flange? It seems that it would be OK for it to not be sealed perfect on the top side of the liner since any water will run down into the drain from that point....correct?

I was doing a search CX and saw a post where you mention (correct me if I am wrong) putting a concrete anchor by going through the bottom flange (where the insert popped out) all the way through to the concrete and bolting down using those. That seems like it might be the best solution since I would not have to dig out underneath the flange and risk damaging it.

I guess my next question about either of these solutions is are the bolt holes an area of concern for leaking? If so, then how do I deal with that aspect?

Does either of these sound like an ok sollution that you would be comfortable with?
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Old 07-13-2006, 08:20 PM   #14
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Old 07-13-2006, 09:08 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve
I was doing a search CX and saw a post where you mention (correct me if I am wrong) putting a concrete anchor by going through the bottom flange (where the insert popped out) all the way through to the concrete and bolting down using those. That seems like it might be the best solution since I would not have to dig out underneath the flange and risk damaging it.
Did I look drunk when I said that?

I'd be a little concerned about that method because you could be warping the bottom flange excessively unless it's hard against the slab, which it shouldn't be. Maybe you could put some patching cement or similar really hard, strong concrete-like stuff under there and make it work OK, though.

I'd rather see something that pulled the two flanges together rather than one that just pulled the top down toward the slab. You should be able to get a short bolt under there with just a little chipping, or maybe slide a flanged nut under there with a greased bolt to hold it in place whilst the JBWeld pookey sets. Bet you could think of somethin'.

And you wanna be real careful with your plan "to apply a LOT of silicone caulk on the underside of the pan to seal it really well to to bottom flange." You really want that flange to clamp the liner well enough with no sealant at all to be leak proof. The caulk is to act as a gasket, and I wouldn't ever install without the caulk, but you don't want to have a caulked joint there instead of a clamped gasketed joint. And you must be really careful not to plug the weep holes with the caulking.

You're treading a fine line here on a very critical part of the pan construction, so be careful that what you're doing is really gonna work. You have doubts, you need to be chippin' concrete.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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