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Old 06-17-2019, 07:39 PM   #31
PC7060
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Agree with Kevin, pull up the PT ply and move out.
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Old 06-18-2019, 02:26 AM   #32
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OK, there have been so many statements that the treated plywood is terrible, I want to be sure I am clear on what you pros are saying I should do....

You're saying I should pull up the PT plywood and put nothing on the joists until they have thoroughly dried, and then put down non-treated ply. Is that right? Obviously that would leave the porch unusable for many weeks.
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Old 06-18-2019, 05:01 AM   #33
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Franko,

No, they are suggesting you have the builder remove the treated plywood right now and replace it with plywood that is not treated. Then in a year or so after the treated framing (e.g. floor joists, ledger, etc...) has dried out (you can verify with a hygrometer), proceed to set your tile using durock or whatever tile underlayment you choose to install over the untreated plywood.
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Old 06-18-2019, 07:50 AM   #34
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Confirmation please, from one of the pros who has been recommending I pull up the treated plywood....

If I do what Radas suggests, the untreated plywood, after setting flat against the elements for a year, would be severely degraded, wouldn't it?
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Old 06-18-2019, 08:05 AM   #35
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I would never leave untreated plywood exposed to the elements for weeks/months, but that is me. The pressure treated wood could take 6 months to dry out. I know the stain I use recommends waiting a full YEAR before pressure treated wood is dry enough to take the stain and have a valid warranty. They are recommending you use a moisture meter to determine how wet the wood is and just wait until it is 19%. No idea how long that will take as it depends on your local humidity, temperature, sun exposure, airflow, rain, the lumbers initial moisture reading, etc. Freshly treated wood is sopping wet and "bleeds" liquid when driving a screw.

Are the joists and beams exposed to the air on the underside, or are they totally sealed in? Is there like a drainage system with gutters?
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Old 06-18-2019, 08:58 AM   #36
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Frank, I'm not completely clear on the final destination of this deck. You indicated in your opening post that it will be a screened porch, which gives me to think it will be fully roofed, probably with a suitable overhang. Would that be correct?

If so, you might get by without the deck being sloped away from the building, which is also not mentioned, best I can see, but you'll still want to fully waterproof the surface before you install ceramic tile.

If all that is correct, I see no reason you could not remove the treated plywood, replace it with an exterior glue plywood of suitable grade, build the remainder of the structure, install your CBU or other tiling substrate, and waterproof the installation now, waiting 'till next Spring to install the tile as you have indicated was your plan anyway.

That still won't completely ensure that your treated framing is suitably dried, but it would have done a good bit of its shrinking and changing shape by then if it remains exposed from below. You would not have use of the deck in the interim unless you covered it with something to protect the floor surface, but you should be able to determine how flat the surface has remained and base your floor covering options at that time.

Or you could completely disregard everything you've read here about the dangers of tiling over what you currently have and take your chances with a ceramic tile installation. We can't guarantee failure any more than we can guarantee success here on this forum, best we can do is tell you where the smart money is likely to be betting, eh?

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Old 06-18-2019, 10:51 AM   #37
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Thanks CX. The last thing I will do is disregard the advice you and the others are giving me. I really value the help you give all of us.

Yes, about half of the deck will be screened in, fully roofed with a 2' overhang. The other half of the deck will be 'open to the sky.' It will not be sloped away from the house because (per the builder) the roof line of the porch needs to tie in to the house roof line and the spaces between the deck boards will let rain water drop through. The floor of the deck (and porch) will be 2-3" below the floor level of the house and they have installed a heavy rubber type barrier between the house and the deck's ledger board. The entire deck/porch is 8' above the ground, so plenty of air can get to it.

Two questions. You said:
Quote:
Originally Posted by CX
replace [the treated ply] with an exterior glue plywood of suitable grade, build the remainder of the structure, install your CBU or other tiling substrate, and waterproof the installation now, waiting 'till next Spring to install the tile
1) Would it help the joists to dry out if I also waited till next spring to put the CBU down? (or maybe it is needed to shield the plywood?)

2) What do I need to do to 'waterproof' the installation? Thanks again.
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Old 06-18-2019, 12:02 PM   #38
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so is the underside of the deck exposed?
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Old 06-18-2019, 03:32 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Frank
...the roof line of the porch needs to tie in to the house roof line and the spaces between the deck boards will let rain water drop through.
But wasn't that before the decision was made to tile the deck, Frank?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Frank
The other half of the deck will be 'open to the sky.
And that portion of the deck will/will not be covered in tile?
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Old 06-18-2019, 04:32 PM   #40
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CX -
Yes, the decision about not sloping the deck and matching the roof line was made before any decision about tile. Actually, the builder said they just don't slope them as a matter of course.

The only portion of the deck that would receive tile is under the screen porch roof. The open part of the deck will have 5/4 decking planks.

Attached is a picture of the joists and you can see the black rubber shield and the 3" drop from house floor to deck floor. (The dreaded plywood is in the foreground.

Name:  deck.jpg
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Old 06-18-2019, 04:50 PM   #41
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See right there?

That's a picture of Satan. Your plywood is evil.


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Old 06-19-2019, 05:50 AM   #42
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I'm kind of late to this rodeo. Having fresh view at this situation I think you need to reevaluate what structure and materials you have what your original plans were. there are lots of new decking materials of the Trex type variety but some of them are $10 per square foot just for the materials. But then you wouldn't need plywood on top of your treated joist. Screened-in patio only two foot overhang it would get half wet in these parts. Half covered half not. This just does not seem like a good surface for tile no matter what. I'm thinking it freezes in all but southern Florida. I say forget about tile and think of something else but you still may have to take up the plywood. Perhaps carpet is the way to go.
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Old 06-19-2019, 09:28 AM   #43
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FWIW, around here, you'd have a 50/50 chance of getting red tagged at inspection for short joist hangers, but that's on your contractor.
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Old 06-19-2019, 10:06 AM   #44
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Simpson Strong-Tie, at least, for 2x8 through 2x12 joists publishes allowable load values when using a hanger one size smaller than the joist.

Cheers, Wayne
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Old 06-19-2019, 07:49 PM   #45
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Thanks Wayne for that comment. At this point, the last thing I need is more concern about the way this is being built. I have a lot of confidence in this builder....he has a Class A license, has been building for 40 years, lives locally, has TONS of happy customers in the area, so I really want to believe he knows what he is doing. And I do believe that.
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