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Unread 05-29-2017, 11:47 AM   #16
jb9
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Regarding the curtain, that's exactly what I was thinking Wayne. I zoomed out a bit on the rendering so you can see that this is a timber frame enclosed with structural insulated panels. I definitely agree with you that the sealing details will be critical so it's helpful to hear folks' thoughts on the details but not losing sight of what makes a bathroom function well. I agree it's not going to be luxurious, but I think it can work. The SIP's OSB will obviously be furred out from the post so that I can put a proper backing board (open to suggestions) against the wall too.
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Unread 05-29-2017, 01:58 PM   #17
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The curtain as shown would be annoying for either the toilet or the sink, that's why I suggested it should stow against the wall opposite the shower head.

If you have a shower curtain, does that mean you can consider the toilet and the sink to be outside the wet area, so that waterproofing is less of an issue, and you could use a floor mount toilet? I don't know.

Is the post going to be exposed in the bathroom? That would be odd for a wet room, maybe OK behind the shower curtain.

I don't know if fastening the top of your wall mount toilet kneewall to the SIP will provide adequate lateral support (perpendicular to the SIP). Extending the wall up to the joists above would be more conventional.

Cheers, Wayne
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Unread 05-29-2017, 02:50 PM   #18
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With respect to the SIP, I can spec a ledger be embedded inside the panel if I choose to go the wall mount toilet route, so that shouldn't be a problem. I must have misunderstood what you said about the curtain. I think it might work better on the other side (but it would block the sink).

In any case, the exposed post will be protected with urethane. I suppose this wet room will require the shower to be used with some prudence. Lots of good suggestions so far.
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Unread 05-29-2017, 03:33 PM   #19
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My suggestion for the curtain is that when in use it be located where you show it (but extended), while for storage, the rod or ceiling track is L shaped, allowing it to turn 90 degrees and stow diagonally opposite the sink.

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Unread 05-29-2017, 07:21 PM   #20
jadnashua
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Put in a washlet/bidet toilet seat, and you may not need to worry about TP!
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Unread 05-29-2017, 07:26 PM   #21
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With a waterproof in-use cover for the electrical connection? :-)

Cheers, Wayne
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Unread 05-29-2017, 07:58 PM   #22
Davy
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With one of these, who needs toilet paper?
http://leistergame.com/product_details.asp?ID=280

Sorry, couldn't help myself.
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Unread 05-29-2017, 10:36 PM   #23
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That's funny! You are right I am going to have to keep the TP dry... Thanks for indulging me and offering some great suggestions. I know this project is a little bit unique. The bathroom in my main house will be conventionally organized!
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Unread 05-30-2017, 06:03 AM   #24
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Kerdi Board Dimensional Stability Question

I am considering tiling one side of a wooden door. Could one use a thin piece of Kerdi board against a wooden surface and then proceed to apply tile to it?

The door would be a shower door with a wooden exterior and a tile interior face. The selected species of wood will be dimensionally stable as well (probably ipe).
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Unread 05-30-2017, 07:09 AM   #25
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Most interior door hinges are just screwed to the frame, and wouldn't support the weight of a tiled door. You'd want to make sure you had a solid, square wall stud to mount the door, and get some heavy duty hinges, 3 or 4 of them, to support the finished weight of the door, with screws that go through the frame and into the framing.
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Unread 05-30-2017, 08:41 AM   #26
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That's a good point Scott. I am actually considering a sliding barn door so perhaps that might be a better solution for a tile door. The door will also be fairly narrow and small.
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Unread 05-30-2017, 08:43 AM   #27
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If the board is supported underneath then it doesn't matter how thin you go with it.
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Unread 05-30-2017, 11:16 AM   #28
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Welcome, jb9. In the upper right-hand corner of the page you'll see Private Messages. Please click on that if you would.
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Unread 06-03-2017, 06:23 AM   #29
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Kerdi Drain + Mud Pack + Shower Floor Assembly Question

Hello,

I have an odd shaped shower floor that will most likely require a mud pack floor instead of a pre-shaped shower tray. I also have a recessed slab in order to try and keep my finish floor height close to the height of my "wet room." As far as the mud pack and kerdi drain and floor assembly are concerned, can folks comment on this floor assembly I have drawn up? I just want to make sure it looks correct. Also, I won't have access to the drain under the slab afterwards so I am curious as to what the procedure will be when I do the mud pack floor. Pictures are kinda small so my mud pack is the brown, the unmodified thinset is white and the kerdi membrane is orange.

Thanks in advance. I have learned a lot from reading this forum.
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Unread 06-03-2017, 09:05 AM   #30
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John, it'll help if you'll keep all your project questions on one thread so folks can see what you're working on and what's been previously asked and answered. We can give it a more generic title any time you'd like to suggest one.

I can't read the print in your drawings, but it appears you're simply wanting to do a common bonding flange drain installation in a concrete SOG floor. You just install the drain so that you have 3/4" or more under the flange and then pack your mud under it as you make your sloped floor.

I like to add a handful of thinset mortar and a little extra water to a gallon bucket of deck mud when I'm doing that and pack that under the drain. I generally use the edge of a wood float to help in packing the mud in there.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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