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Old 04-27-2019, 06:01 PM   #16
cx
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Does not look to me like there is a full tile at the ceiling, Victor.
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Old 04-27-2019, 06:44 PM   #17
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For what it’s worth, the contractor’s explanation for the sliver tiles on either side of the glass tiles was that he was trying to abut the glass tile with equal-thickness ceramic tile.

To verify, I put the glass tile next to a full ceramic tile and the difference in thickness looked much better than his approach.

I figured I’d update you all on the status. The crew just ripped out the tub surround tiles and gypsum board. My husband bought metal shims and supervised the leveling of the tub. As Bubba pointed out, they couldn’t get the tub completely level without raising the tub apron above the floor tiles. So we settled for improvement but not perfection. Thankfully the bottom of the tub does slope toward the drain.

The Wedi board we purchased is up. I picked out 4x10 unbeveled ceramic subway tiles (at our cost) that will be installed next week. The accent strip will be eliminated. We’re hoping that by keeping it simple, and babysitting every step of the way, we can get this project done to our satisfaction.

Thank you all for weighing in on this. It’s been most helpful as we move forward.
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Old 04-27-2019, 08:16 PM   #18
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Is your Wedi board on the drain side of the tub's tiling flange down to within a quarter-inch of the horizontal portion of the tub, Hazel?
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Old 04-27-2019, 09:16 PM   #19
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CX, the Wedi board/tub junction has been sealed with Wedi sealant. Hopefully I'm understanding your question correctly.

I'm attaching a few photos and I'm open to any suggestions! We want to avoid another tear-out obviously. Or maybe it just helps everyone sleep better at night knowing that tile job is no more.

I'm a little unsure how to handle the Wedi board/gypsum wall transitions. I'm thinking just Wedi sealant and drywall tape, because I couldn't find the Wedi tape locally.

There's also a pretty large gap between the edge of the tub (drain side) and the gypsum wall. Think this should be caulked? I think they just covered it with the Schulter edge on the first go-round, but I don't know if this is adequate waterproofing. Thanks!
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Old 04-27-2019, 09:24 PM   #20
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I would lay out some tiles on the floor for them both directions with spacers. That way you can measure horizontally and vertically and be able to tell what size cuts you'll have. Doing that might blow their mind.

I also would start the layout at the lowest part of the tub and cut it in the rest of the way around.

Edit; Id make sure there's enough fasteners in the Wedi. Might be skimpy.
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Old 04-27-2019, 09:54 PM   #21
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You plan to have glass doors across the opening of this shower, or use a curtain?
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Old 04-28-2019, 12:41 AM   #22
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In addition to CX’s question: Is that sheet of Wedi board on the back wall short a few fasteners? Looks so. But maybe it’s fastened properly and the fastener heads haven’t been covered yet?

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Old 04-28-2019, 07:00 AM   #23
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That back wall definitely needs more fasteners. Every 12" vertically. It's a screw with a special washer so it'd be obvious if they were there.
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Old 04-28-2019, 09:32 AM   #24
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We plan to use a curtain. You all are right about the fasteners. They definitely need a few more. Thanks.
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Old 04-28-2019, 10:04 AM   #25
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The gap between the Wedi board and drywall can be filled with sealant like the other joints. However, you'll want to make sure the tile covers the sealant completely.

Additionally, it would be nice to have an inch, or so (more?) of Wedi board on the sides of the tub instead of drywall. With a shower curtain, water will get out and run down the sides of the tub. It's nice to have something that won't expand and blow-up there when it gets wet.

Again, you'll want to use sealant next to the tub in these areas and make sure the tile covers the Wedi board "leg".

-------

Now for some internet micro-managing: How did they end up at that location for the niche? Did they layout the tile and figure that that was the best location for the niche? I'm skeptical that this would be the case.

I understand that you'll probably be stuck with the niche going in one of the existing stud bays but, height-wise, it's nice to be able to locate the niche so that it works out with full tile or at least makes some sense in the tile layout.

Wedi board is easy to cut and could have been cut in when the rows of tile were already started.

But, anyway... they didn't do it wrong but there are better ways of doing it.

Rant over


edit: One more thing: they make pipe flashings for the lower outlet. I don't know if you are able to get a hold one but they are nice to use for that. Additionally, that Grohe valve should be sealed with sealant around the blue case- between the blue case and Wedi board.

edit 2: Might be Moen? If so, they make a shower valve flashing that would work for that. Wedi makes them but can be bought from Schluter and other companies.
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Old 04-28-2019, 10:24 AM   #26
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Examples of what I'm talking about:

https://www.masterwholesale.com/wedi...ing-valve.html

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Name:  2016-10-10 08.09.47.jpg
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Old 04-28-2019, 10:28 AM   #27
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Good luck with the project. In my experience, when a contractor does poor work to begin with, this won't just go away the second time around. I hope you get a nice layout with minimal lippage and nice cuts this time.
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Old 05-03-2019, 10:12 PM   #28
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I'll tell you why there's slivers on the accent strip. Because he forgot about it until after he had laid too much to pull it all down.
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