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Unread 06-07-2019, 07:28 AM   #61
Radas
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If you're comfortable installing the glass using the reverse process of removal, I'd DIY. Just carefully plan where your brackets will mount and patiently wet drill with a diamond or spade bit to avoid tile cracks (start with smaller bits, work your way up).

I'm paying for mine because I don't have existing shower glass and my losses would be much higher if I screwed up than if I had glass and hardware that already fit my enclosure.
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Unread 06-08-2019, 09:52 AM   #62
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Finally hit a bit of a milestone and managed to get all my kerdi board up on the walls! Thank you all for helping me get this far.

I had a brain fart which I usually never have in any kind of DIY, but I was listening to music and lost my focus. I screwed up my drill holes for the pipe fixtures on my control wall (see pictures).

I think given that the holes are small enough I can probably patch this up using the kerdi shower nipple thing they sell, but I did want to check with the experts here to make sure I'm not going down the road of ruin here. I have no issue replacing the board, but obviously don't want to do it unless I absolutely have to.

How would you guys deal with this?
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Unread 06-08-2019, 10:06 AM   #63
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It will be fine you can cut your own Kerdi patch to make sure you get 2" overlap and cut a hole around your pipe and then Kerdi fix it. Kerdi band is only 4 Mil and Kerdi is 8 but both should probably not be a problem with setting tile. . As long as you have two inch overlap you will be fine. your tile will easily go over that hole

So you have existing shower door glass and you're wanting to build your shower and tile so that that glass will fit correct?
That will be quite a challenge to build a wall, doorway, curb square enough and the actual size after tile to match glass, but it could be done if your lucky. but it will require your utmost care and a laser level and cursing. You do want a sloped curb. then if you have a kerdi curb that has the kerdie already on it you really can't cut the top off with a table saw but you can easily slope the tile on top with the thinset. And just remember it's pounds per square inch and like someone else said one square inch of tile could handle a hundred pound load so you're talkin about the full length so the load is distributed to only 4 lbs per linear inch along the glass. Of course there will be contact points but won't it be siliconed down or something?
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Unread 06-08-2019, 10:58 AM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Teddy
Kerdi band is only 4 Mil and Kerdi is 8 but both should probably not be a problem with setting tile.
Maybe in the mind of the advertising department, Teddy, but in real life the product is much, much thicker than that.

See Post #30 here. among others on the subject.

If you want a thinner sheet membrane, look to the Durock Shower System membrane.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 06-08-2019, 01:31 PM   #65
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Thanks guys.

Elkski I'm not sure I understand why using my existing glass panels is an issue? The shower dimensions are virtually identical as my old shower where these panels fit perfectly (except now my curb is slightly taller, courtesy of Schluter). But otherwise why is it problematic to simply mount my glass panels up once everything is tiled up? Not sure choice of tile would really matter there?
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Unread 06-08-2019, 03:28 PM   #66
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You are correct. I forgot your shower is a corner unit with all glass in 90 degree configuration. I surely would reuse the glass. Just make sure to check your glass for squareness and build your walls/ curb to match. It is possible the glass man did not make those glass panels square they make them custom fit for each shower.
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Unread 06-08-2019, 09:11 PM   #67
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If you feel confident in handling it vs. hiring it out, go for it. Doesn't hurt to have an extra pair of hands to make it easier on yourself, though.
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Unread 06-09-2019, 11:41 AM   #68
makethatkerdistick
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Seems like a nice enclosure. I'd definitely try and reuse it. Just be careful when you move it around. The panels are fairly strong but are vulnerable at the edges where tension is high. Don't forget you're dealing with tempered glass.
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Unread 07-08-2019, 10:49 AM   #69
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Mud Floor Question

Hey all,

I'm going to be embarking on building my first mud floor, think I've got all the stuff I need and did a bunch of research. Hopefully my inner artist prevails and i can mold this into the perfect sloped floor.

I do have a question for the group. Given I'm using the Kerdi system, I won't be doing a pre-slope, rather one sloped floor and will waterproof the surface. See picture of the existing set up, drain already installed.

When watching the video from Schluter explaining the Kerdi drain with a mud floor, they say that the mud needs to be "more watery" near the drain, vs. the rest of the mud.

Does anyone actually know why that's the case? Do I need to do that? Or can I just pack it with normal water-consistency mud that I will be using in the rest of the shower?

The other question I have, my drain is slightly slanted right now (so not level), I'm hoping I will be able to fix that with mud (i.e. pack in more on one side), because if not, I may need to open up the floor again to put some wood under the pipe for support but I really don't want to do that.

Thanks all
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Unread 07-08-2019, 11:03 AM   #70
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A bit more water may help you pack the mud under the Kerdi drain, John, but the term "more watery" surprises me coming from Herr Schluter. You still want it to be like deck mud, but maybe just a bit wetter.

I actually put some deck mud in a one-gallon bucket and toss in a handful of dry thinset mortar and a bit more water and mix it well. That's what I use to pack under the drain and I find that the edge of a wood float is a good tool to help with that placement.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 07-08-2019, 11:27 AM   #71
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I like to pack my Kerdi drain / flange assembly with brick morter (mason mix). A small bag from Homer's is cheap and usually enough...
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Unread 07-08-2019, 11:57 AM   #72
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I think you will be able to level that drain with the mud as long as it's movable
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Unread 07-08-2019, 12:59 PM   #73
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More watery means more shrinkage prone. I'd avoid that. Strengthening the mortar like CX suggested sounds good to me. Basically increasing the cement content with a bit more water to activate all of it and maximize compact-ability.
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Unread 07-08-2019, 06:52 PM   #74
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If the drain is out of level by 1/16” or so, you can probably level it by packing more deck mud under one side. Be careful you still get full contact all the way around, and that you don’t warp the flange though.

I make my deck mud under the flange looser than normal, but not watery. In the Schluter docs, you can see it ooze through the trapezoid holes in the drain flange...that’s the consistency I aim for.

I also mix up some modified thinset and butter the underside of the drain before embedding it in the deck mud. And once the pan is done, I set a 5 gallon bucket of water onto the drain until the following day.
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Unread 07-11-2019, 06:58 PM   #75
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Thank you all for the advice.

I have some good new, and unfortunately some bad news.

The good news is, the mud job is finished! But that's about it.

The bad news is, I'm not sure how good the job is. The incline is solid, I'm not worried about that, but it is somewhat "sandy" or "crumbly" on the top layer in certain places. I've attached some photos which might help illustrate this. I don't think it's severe enough that I need to re-do it, but open to people's thoughts. The crumbling is not very deep and it's only in areas where for whatever reason the mix is a big soft and then you can create a small hole by just rubbing your finger on it. But this is certainly not everywhere, but there are regions.

Let me know if you folks think the floor should be re-done or if it looks acceptable.

The more troubling thing and something I didn't see coming... the drain appears to be flexing ever so slightly around the perimeter (where the mud would have gone through the holes on the outer perimeter of the drain). That area i can basically put my finger and lift the drain very slightly, essentially i can flex the outer edge a bit. The problem is, when i walk over the shower and drain, it makes a lot of noise (imagine plastic being pressed into a sandy texture, so it's just noisy). Not sure if this is a mistake in the way i packed the mud under the drain... i tried to make it very packed and push it in there pretty hard, so not sure what else i could have done.

Should i just try to thinset over that area and perhaps push some thinset underneath the drain? Perhaps with the kerdi band, thinset and ultimately tiles, this won't be as big of an issue?

Thanks all! Pictures attached.
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