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Unread 06-03-2019, 08:24 AM   #31
SpaceCadet
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You already tore up the floor so it's a little late but you don't have to guess about asbestos. There are labs where you can bring a sample (in person) to test for asbestos and know with a high degree of certainty. You should be able to find locations online. The place near me charged $40 per sample for overnight testing.

Also, note that one of the joists was cut pretty deep for plumbing so that one's not doing you a whole lot of good. You pretty much have a joist and a half supporting that floor. Not great (not that I'm an expert).
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Unread 06-03-2019, 08:41 AM   #32
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The deflecto says 366 fir 12.5' 24" spacing , 9.25 deep 1.5 wide. Not enough for tiles. So you are going to need to beef things up. In reality your room doesn't span 12.5' and the walls actually can give the floor some rigidity but they can also be overloading the joists.
You are going to want to figure out how to beef things up. It looks like the plumber cut out way more than needed. He did try to sister it with 8" 2x4's haha. Is there a wall anywhere nearby under here? The green line? What is that covering the hole red ?.

Those electrical wires really are going to hamper things. Plus the can lights. But you have opportunity to do things right. And no handyman would tell you all this because no one would ever accept his bids.

They make toe kick saws that will cut real close to the wall. It's used under cabinets and for this type of job. Probably can rent one. Or harbor freight.
https://www.harborfreight.com/3-38-i...EaAvC6EALw_wcB
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Unread 06-03-2019, 11:57 AM   #33
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The red question mark is where i almost fell through yesterday (i broke the drywall with my leg puncturing it).

Attached is a picture from the other side
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Unread 06-03-2019, 01:27 PM   #34
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I forgot to ask what is this 2x4 on my green line im my picture? Is it a wall header?
Your choices are non tile flooring or beef up that area.
Are your joist width inside or center to center?

And I ask if there are any walls below that may shorten the 12.5 length? They measure 12.5' but maybe there is a wall support below mid span or something.
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Unread 06-03-2019, 02:24 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul
Also, note that one of the joists was cut pretty deep for plumbing so that one's not doing you a whole lot of good.
The first thing I'd address is header-ing off a access for the drain-line to address the joist Paul called out. You need to double up the joist on either side and then put a double between them.

Should look something like this when your done (hopefully without the HVAC cutting into the joist).


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If you want tile, I see a future where the drywall on the level below will need to be removed to deal with these issues. I'd add another joist in the section withe CAN light while I was at it.

You'll notice the above picture is also taken from below. I had the strip off the ceiling of the dining room to get access to correct a similar set of headaches.
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Unread 06-07-2019, 11:13 PM   #36
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Subfloor is put in, i sistered joists question now

Can I redgard the plywood?

I will be using ditra uncoupling membrane for the tile in the bathroom, but would like to put redgard on the plywood and around the toilet. This redgard would be underneath the uncoupling membrane and the modified thinset.

The layers would be:
1) plywood
2) redgard)
3) modified thinset
4) uncoupling membrane
5) unmodified thinset
6) tile

Would this be okay? I understand ditra is a waterproofing membrane in itself, but around the base of the toilet flange and what not i would prefer to redgard the plywood. Thank you!
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Unread 06-08-2019, 12:20 AM   #37
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Can you? Yes.

Should you? Well, do you wear suspenders and a belt?

The only problem I see is you'll cause a bit of a hump in the area where you use Redgard, which may cause wrinkles in Ditra.

I'd give the Redgard a day or two to dry thoroughly, since it won't dry much once it's covered with Ditra.

But personally, I wouldn't do it at all.
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Unread 06-08-2019, 05:20 AM   #38
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What Kevin said. Skip the redgard.
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Unread 06-08-2019, 05:36 AM   #39
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Make sure you set your commode well. Hopefully the flange is close to level and use spacers to get it to tile height or on top. Them use a extra thick wax ring warmed to room temp. Use the plastic wedges to make sure the toilet is stable if it's not. Level tile really helps.
In the future if a toilet ever seems loose or rocks at all you must replace the toilet wax ring immediately.
You can use kerdi band on the ditra to run up the wall but keep it under the base moulding. at this stage you can make your bathroom totally waterproof except water will run out the doorway or down the heater vent. I did this one time in the kitchen because if there are any leaks I wanted the water to run out onto the cheap commercial carpet and the archery club and not get my brand new subfloor.
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Unread 06-08-2019, 10:30 AM   #40
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I pretty much removed all of the black mastic by removing the subfloor, however there is one small area where the black mastic remains. And i previously used wd40 on this small spot to try and remove it. I dont want this wd40 to impact the ability for new thinset to stick to the plywood (although the actual area impacted is really small). Should i worry about this small area? If so what do you recommend i do to remove the Wd40 grease from this area?
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Unread 06-08-2019, 12:42 PM   #41
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Lunch time here. Good question.
I would have cut the new subfloor to notch in there.
Do you have any idea what your tile layout will be and where that grout line will be relative to the transition piece?
how sturdy is that little strip? And what is it sitting on ?and how sturdy is the big subfloor right there?
Did you glue the strip down?
If you put in a cross member there and glued and screwed both edges down I think ditra will be fine there.
Even if no adhesion for those few square inches.
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Unread 06-08-2019, 01:24 PM   #42
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Thanks for the reply, we sistered 2x4 and 2x6's to the joists and blocked and braced the entry way. See the picture.

I'm going to have the tile run horizontal. I don't think it will be that big of a deal either because I have a laminate transition piece that will go over that spot, but if i could remove it or cover it (because of the black mastic asbestos) i would prefer to do so.

Your thoughts? I want to redgard over that area for sure to seal it in.

edit: tile will be horizontal as stated above, but wanted to clarify that it will run the same direction as the laminate in the picture. Is that a good idea?
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Unread 06-08-2019, 01:59 PM   #43
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You're planning to use a single layer of plywood across that 26" span we see there, Mike?

And you plan no blocking under the between-joist plywood joints we see in the photo (I can't detect any T&G edge)?

What you want to do with the remaining cutback material is remove it mechanically. Your RedGard isn't likely to provide any better bond to it than would your thinset mortar. But I don't understand the application of the RedGard in that area, anyway.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 06-08-2019, 03:09 PM   #44
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You put your 2 by 6 or 2 by 4 blocking horizontal in the threshold area which is nice to tie in the old wood to the new strip but I think it would have been better structural to put a cross brace 2 x 6 vertical for strength but also sister all three or four of those joist with some cross-bracing 2,x8 or tallest you could fit. Of course you may have to notch out for those electrical wires. I see on that one side to left of door acrods from throne you have spliced two by fours so they don't maintain any rigidity Along the beam. together
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Unread 06-08-2019, 03:40 PM   #45
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Underneath where the shower pan is two pieces of 3/4” plywood. Only under where the toilet and entrance is there a single layer of 3/4” plywood. This was because of the height difference would have been too dramatic with another 3/4” under the toilet area.
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