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Old 04-11-2019, 08:12 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lowe's
Water-repellent coating that reduces water absorption by up to 40% during the normal construction cycle compared to uncoated plywood
Except for this it sounds OK. I have no idea what that "coating" might be nor whether it will adversely affect your bonding to it with thinset mortar.
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Old 04-12-2019, 09:26 PM   #17
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There's actually a spec for underlayment versus subflooring plywood. Subflooring ply like what you're discussing may have a wax like coating on it to help it survive the construction phase prior to the building being closed in with the walls, roof, and windows. As mentioned, that could be a bond breaker for thinset, depending on the materials you intend to put on top of it.

Actual underlayment grade ply tends to not need those coatings, as the house has had a chance to dry out some and it won't be subjected to the occasional rainstorm.
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Old 04-12-2019, 09:43 PM   #18
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If you checked with Georgia Pacific, the manufacturer of Dry Ply, they will tell you that you don't want to try to bond anything to it, like tile mortar.
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Old 04-12-2019, 09:45 PM   #19
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Ok, thanks do you have a link to what should be used?
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Old 04-12-2019, 09:53 PM   #20
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Since the big box stores vary on inventory in lumber, what I post you may not be able to get in New Hampshire.

Generally speaking, you want an exterior glue plywood, also rated as Exposure 1, with a face grade of A, B, or C.

If you have a hardware or lumber store in your area, you'll typically find what you want there, as well as employees that will do more to help you than stare at the floor and say, "Ummmm....".
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Old 04-13-2019, 05:37 AM   #21
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Ok, that's great and all, can you please provide a link to what would work. I don't care if I'm able to buy it.

Based on the ditra heat manual I want. This
minimum subfloor thickness – 23/32",
3/4" nom. (19 mm) tongue-and-groove with
1/8" (3 mm) gap between sheets.
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Old 04-13-2019, 08:10 AM   #22
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https://m.lowes.com/pd/Plytanium-23-...-4-x-8/3602906
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Old 04-14-2019, 06:19 PM   #23
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Thanks for the help.

New question, my bathroom is above a garage. The garage is covered with sheetrock. There is electrical cable directly above the drywall. Is this allowed by code or does the wire require protection.
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Old 04-14-2019, 06:41 PM   #24
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I'm sure you know exactly what you mean there, Spencer, but I, for one, ain't got even a clue.
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Old 04-14-2019, 07:09 PM   #25
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Assuming it runs in the space between the two floors, that would be acceptable. I believe it does have to be stapled to the framing (plastic staples, of course) every few feet to keep it in place, if it runs parallel to the floor joists.
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Old 05-02-2019, 11:36 AM   #26
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Anyone have any thoughts on why there is an extra 3 inch pipe inside the wall here? It is capped off at bottom and in the attic.
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Old 05-02-2019, 12:06 PM   #27
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My guess, a simple mistake by the plumber, either with that vent or with the run in the floor. The caps are to prevent it from acting as a riser for smoke and flames. Easier to leave it and cap it than to remove and cover the 3"+ holes in the sole and top plate.
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Old 05-02-2019, 02:52 PM   #28
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Would make a handy wire chase!
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Old 06-19-2019, 04:49 AM   #29
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I have my joists notched and sister.

My plan is to install a kerdi drain pain in the lower area. How do I handle the transition between the lower area and the high area.
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Old 06-29-2019, 02:29 PM   #30
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Insulation faced or unfaced?

I'm at the stage where it is time to replace insulation in floor of my bathroom. The bathroom is over a unheated garage. The entire floor is going to be covered with Detra heat. Does the Detra heat count as a vapor barrier? If it does does that mean I do not want a vapor barrier on my insulation?

Thanks for your help
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