Ceramic Tile Advice Forums - John Bridge Ceramic Tile

Welcome to John Bridge / Tile Your World, the friendliest DIY Forum on the Internet


Advertiser Directory
JohnBridge.com Home
Buy John Bridge's Books

Go Back   Ceramic Tile Advice Forums - John Bridge Ceramic Tile > Tile & Stone Forums > Tile Forum/Advice Board

Sponsors


Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 04-09-2019, 07:54 PM   #16
greenjp
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2017
Posts: 210
Howdy folks. Been a while since I've been able to work on this but am now strategizing for the next steps. I sistered in some 2x4 and 2x6s and added a cross piece here and there, so almost the entire perimeter of the new subfloor will be supported. I have the new flange (ABS w/stainless ring), length of ABS pipe, one of those Fernco banded couplers, and some flange spacers for the drain. MIL found some 12x12 white tiles to use.

Am planning to lay down a first layer of "5/8" (which seems to actually be 19/32) and second of 3/8 (likewise 11/32), with some leftover Strataheat mat on top which should get the new tiles level with the existing ones.

I think for ease of install I'm going to set the spacers under the flange ring to get the height right and just not have the Strataheat mat and tile under the flange at all.

Question - I'm thinking for the "grout" joint between the old tiles and new of using a matching sanded acrylic caulk instead of grout. Thinking this because the supporting structure has been stiffened up and the different composition might result in different movement. Good idea or should I just grout it?
__________________
jeff
greenjp is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-09-2019, 09:40 PM   #17
Kman
Moderator
 
Kman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: NW Arkansas, Ozark Mountains
Posts: 10,629
If you suspect there could be movement at a joint for whatever reason, caulking it is a good idea. As long as the joint won't see excessive moisture, latex acrylic caulk will work.

Otherwise, use a matching 100% silicone.
__________________
Kevin

The top ten reasons to procrastinate:

1.
Kman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-03-2019, 09:14 AM   #18
greenjp
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2017
Posts: 210
Howdy folks,
No progress on this recently but a question as I plan for a visit a few weeks away - is it generally considered OK to use double layers of Ditra, Stratamat, etc? I was able to get small "project" size 2'x4' BCX plywood in 3/4 and 1/2 nominal, won't know for sure until I'm on site how these and the Ditra or Strataheat mat I've got on hand are going to stack up but based on the existing flooring I'm trying to match something like that may work if permissible. Thanks,
__________________
jeff
greenjp is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-03-2019, 10:33 AM   #19
SpaceCadet
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2018
Posts: 157
Ditra comes in a thicker 5/16" version, called Ditra XL.
__________________
Paul
SpaceCadet is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-03-2019, 11:15 AM   #20
greenjp
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2017
Posts: 210
The Strataheat mat is also thicker, 1/4" I believe. I just happen to have a bunch if it leftover from my bathroom job, and also have some regular Ditra (Floor and Decor sells it by the foot). Trying to maximize the use of what I've already got on this little job if possible.
__________________
jeff
greenjp is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-03-2019, 12:05 PM   #21
Kman
Moderator
 
Kman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: NW Arkansas, Ozark Mountains
Posts: 10,629
Arrow

The short answer is yes, you can stack two layers of Ditra to make it 1/4" thick. Ditra XL is cheaper than two layers of Ditra, but if you don't really know going in you may not want to buy a lot of it.
__________________
Kevin

The top ten reasons to procrastinate:

1.
Kman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-10-2019, 08:38 AM   #22
greenjp
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2017
Posts: 210
Thanks Kevin.

Another advanced planning question - I'm figuring to use a rapid setting mortar when I set the tiles so I can be done with this job in a single visit. I'm only setting 6 12x12 tiles, so if I get all the cuts complete first I should be able to set them all in the 20-30 minutes it'll last. I'll also be needing far less than a 25lb bag. My question is does anyone have a recommended powder/water ratio for Speedset or Ultraflex RS? Thanks.
__________________
jeff
greenjp is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-10-2019, 09:16 AM   #23
cx
Da Home Builder
 
cx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Boerne, Texas
Posts: 87,886
Custom Building Products, manufacturer of the SpeedSet, has their recommended ratio printed on the bag, Jeff, and also on their website.
__________________
CX

Y'ALL NEW VISITORS READ THIS HERE!
cx is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-10-2019, 10:45 AM   #24
Kman
Moderator
 
Kman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: NW Arkansas, Ozark Mountains
Posts: 10,629
That's what I do when working with rapid setting mortar, make all the cuts and dry-lay everything. Then mix up and set. Wait a couple of hours and it's ready to grout.

You may need to allow a little more time since you're going over Ditra.

I thought I had seen some smaller bags of rapid set, but I can't remember for sure. You could use a scale for the powder and a measuring cup for the water and cut the recommended ratio in half, or quarter, or however much you think is appropriate.

Just remember, you can always mix up more, but you can't "un-mix" it.
__________________
Kevin

The top ten reasons to procrastinate:

1.
Kman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-10-2019, 01:40 PM   #25
smifwal
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Kansas City
Posts: 925
I like to measure I feel like I get a longer pot life than if I eye ball it. Get a couple of paint measuring buckets from Home Depot, dump your bag in there and then divide that volume in to parts and then devide the water to the same ratio.
__________________
Shawn
smifwal is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-24-2019, 07:04 AM   #26
greenjp
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2017
Posts: 210
I finished up this job this past weekend.

First I did some minor trimming of the joists to get everything level. Then I extended the supply pipe up above the floor, and attached a length of pipe to the existing drain with a Fernco banded coupling.

With that done I got the 3/4" and 3/8" (nominal) BCX plywood cut to shape and with the cutouts for the pipes. Screwed and glued the 3/4" down, then screwed down the 3/8". I was careful to use shorter screws (1") wherever there was a joist or blocking below for this step, and longer screws throughout the rest. I turned out nice and flat and very solid.

I installed the drain flange directly to the plywood, using a 1/2" spacer underneath it to get the height approximately where it'd be if it were installed over the finished tiles. This seemed easier than drilling through the tiles. That ABS "glue" sets fast!

I then checked the resulting height of the subfloor with respect to the existing tile and determined a single layer of Ditra would get it to the right height. So I cut that out and installed it with Speedset (I ordered a 25lb bag from HD). Mixed it at a 4:1.5 ratio which seemed ok, combed it out with a 1/4x3/16 v notch and backbuttered the Ditra itself. Prefilled the top with the leftover Speedset. Had it all done in less than 20 minutes after mixing. I managed to get the finished height dead on, it's right level with the existing tile.

Let that sit overnight then dry fit and cut all the tiles. Mixed up another batch of Speedset and got to work with a 1/4x3/8" square trowel. Got 'em all down in ~23 minutes. Let that sit for about 6 hours then I grouted it, using a little container of Ultracolor FA. A little while later I did the caulking, including the joint between the new tiles and old as a precaution against any differential movement. Possibly unnecessary but we'll see how it goes.

The next morning I set the toilet bowl. Used a Saniseal ring. A couple of shims on the rear got it steady and the bolts held it great. Then I replaced the innards of the tank, got it set, connected the water supply, and tested it out. Fills and flushes good, no apparent leaks from below, but do have a minor leak from something at the tank/bowl connection. I put all the parts together in the right order and followed the tightening directions, though I must say Kohler's instructions for tightening the 3 tank-bowl bolts are pretty non-specific. I had them "good and tight" and was hesitant to go any further. The tank had all sorts of gritty junk in it which I cleaned out but perhaps I missed a nugget or two.

At this stage I was out of time so I caulked the base and had to hit the road.
The MIL's brother is on deck to go check out the tank connection. Hopefully he sorts it out.

Here are some upside down photos (MIL found those white tiles lying around in her basement and had me use 'em):
Attached Images
     
__________________
jeff
greenjp is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-24-2019, 02:37 PM   #27
Elkski
Took the Schluter part 1 class my team won!
 
Elkski's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Wasatch front, Utah
Posts: 681
Why all these upside down and sideways pictures lately?
. mother-in-law is going to want all those blue tiles change to White.
__________________
Teddy
Elkski is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-24-2019, 03:56 PM   #28
PC7060
...unrepentant, detail focused, over-analyzer.
 
PC7060's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Virginia
Posts: 2,647
Nice work! I’d put that one in the family projects win column!
PC7060 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-24-2019, 07:45 PM   #29
greenjp
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2017
Posts: 210
Thanks, I was pretty happy with how it turned out all things considered. MIL's brother went by today and found little evidence of the tank leak, tightened one of the nuts a bit and watched it for a while and deemed it Ok. Maybe it just needed to settle or for a bit of crud to migrate into whatever tiny gaps in the seals there were. We'll see.

There's only 2 of those white tiles left so I'm in the clear on that

I also installed a bunch of linear LED lamps in her garage and basement this weekend (2 car garage and a full basement of probably 2,000 square feet, each with a single 13w CFL lamp!) and put up a new mailbox so I have many brownie points in the bank.
__________________
jeff
greenjp is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Stonetooling.com   Tile-Assn.com   National Gypsum Permabase


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Ditra+Heat question - wire under the toilet (slightly). How big a problem? Ohio_Bob Tile Forum/Advice Board 10 09-14-2017 09:31 PM
toilet flange problem Dingus Tile Forum/Advice Board 3 04-16-2012 03:35 PM
Toilet Closet Flange problem Army1 Tile Forum/Advice Board 29 09-26-2010 03:50 PM
Toilet flange problem tht828 Tile Forum/Advice Board 2 05-23-2009 10:25 AM
new floor, toilet uneven. mitcheal Tile Forum/Advice Board 5 12-05-2001 06:43 AM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 02:01 AM.


Sponsors

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright 2018 John Bridge & Associates, LLC