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Old 03-31-2019, 09:55 PM   #31
Rayf2018
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It's done, glad I did it. Wall is back up, tapes and thinset on joints. I'll likely put some red guard on next week on most of the shower and then tile. Wall is definitely better.
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Old 04-01-2019, 09:06 AM   #32
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You'll be more glad come time to set tile.
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Old 04-06-2019, 04:23 PM   #33
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I need to go back a bit to the moisture barrier here. So, as its per code in our climate to have the moisture barrier up, I left it up behind the Wonder board prior to its installation. I have since taped and applied thinset to all joints along with the screw holes for the wonder board.

This is just a vertical wall to tub installation, from what I am reading I should be able to forego the redguard? My concern here is the sandwiching of moisture between a surface waterproof membrane and the moisture barrier behind the wall.
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Old 04-06-2019, 06:40 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ray
...as its per code in our climate to have the moisture barrier up...
That sort of statement means a lot more if you have a geographic location in your User Profile, Ray.

Did you change your polyethylene barrier so that it terminates on the drain side of your tub's tiling flange?
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Last edited by cx; 04-06-2019 at 08:41 PM. Reason: typo
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Old 04-06-2019, 07:46 PM   #35
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Yeah I guess Ill have to add that. I'm in Alberta Canada.

Yeah, its going to the tiling flange. shouldn't be an issue I presume?
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Old 04-26-2019, 04:58 PM   #36
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I am about to tile this weekend finally. I have 12x24 inch tiles. I have the layout planned out. My plan is to use a ledger on the wall and tile starting at the second row, then once the wall is dry I'll remove the ledger and do the first. This is to make sure the tile is exactly level and I feel it would be easier than leveling the first row as I go.

Few questions:

1. Is a 1/2 x 1/2 x 1/2 trowel the proper size?

2. Horizontal thinset lines on the wall then use the flat side to back butter each tile?

3. Whats the average work time for a batch of motar, I couldn't seem to locate it on the bag.


4. What is the best tile spacing for this size tile? 3/16"?
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Old 04-26-2019, 08:39 PM   #37
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1. Yes, or a 1/4x1/2x1/4" if you can find one.

2. There's no set way to do it, just whatever it takes to get the maximum coverage, with a goal of 95%. The way you described is fine, or you can skim the wall and comb the back of the trowel.

3. Usually about two hours. It should be stated on the bag. What is the mortar you're using?
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Old 04-26-2019, 09:27 PM   #38
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I am using this stuff:

https://www.custombuildingproducts.c...bond-lft.aspx#
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Old 04-28-2019, 01:46 PM   #39
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** Questions ASAP**

I am about to thinset and tile over the wonderboard. Am I supposed to spray the wonder board with a mist of water, or dampen it with a sponge first before applying thinset? In order to promote good adhesion? Or can I thinset right over wonderboard without spraying?
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Old 04-28-2019, 06:15 PM   #40
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Did you get the poly to drape over the tub lip? Wondering what happened there before we move forward.
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Old 04-29-2019, 08:17 AM   #41
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Hi Davy, yes it's done.

I was able to start tiling yesterday, turning out good so far. My only concern right now is I tested a tile this morning that I laid yesterday by prying on it with a chisel. It came off after some twisting of the handle.

That said, it's only been about 14 hours since I laid the tile. It still smelled a bit damp and when I scrapped off the thinset it was not rock hard yet. Did I test this too soon or was my mud too dry and didn't cure properly? I know when I did the last batch of mud I realized I may have mixed the first slightly dry and it was thicker to work . The mud adhered to the wall very good and popped off the tile clean. The coverage on the back of the tile was good however.
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Old 04-29-2019, 08:41 AM   #42
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After 14 hours, Ray, that tile should have been pretty difficult to pry off. What mortar are you using?

Could have been the mortar was too dry, or that it skinned over before you actually set the tile. Could also be kiln release on back of the tile.
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Old 04-29-2019, 09:02 AM   #43
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I am using Custom Building Products FlexBond LFT Motor from Home Depot.

https://www.custombuildingproducts.c...bond-lft.aspx#

I just attempted to pull off a tile on the last row I set with the better mixed thin set. It pulled off easier than the other tile and the mud still definitely had moisture in it. The coverage was great however. When I scraped it off the wall it practically flakes off and is moldable, so I am guessing it is not near dry enough to be testing it for strength? The time between those two tiles is only about 1.5 hours. It would have been laid somewhere around 14 hours ago as well. My times are a bit off by an hour or so. The basement is cooler then the upstairs which could also be affecting dry time.

The other issue is could the Wonderboard be sucking away too much moisture for the thinset to cure properly?

This is so disheartening. I never had this issue last time I tiled. I am honestly about to just pull everything down and put in a 3 piece surround. The last thing I need is a tile coming off the wall while someone is in the bathtub.
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Old 04-29-2019, 09:25 AM   #44
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Being a modified, the FlexBond may take a bit longer to cure sufficiently (but full cure is probably measured in weeks), especially under large tile.

If you are mixing it on the dry side that, plus the wonderboard wicking water out of it, could be what's happening. Is it actually "WonderBoard" you are using? Or some other type of backer board?
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Old 04-29-2019, 09:36 AM   #45
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In my experience, Flexbond initially sets up like other thinsets. It will be rock hard in a day or two. Long-term strength gain might take longer but that won't impede your work or your ability to carefully step on your tiles after the initial set. 24 hours is minimum. I usually give it 48 hours. As a homeowner, I have the time to wait. As a contractor, I'd probably just wait 24 hours. Avoid placing heavy stuff on the tiles for seven days (like furniture, appliances etc.).
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