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Old 01-24-2019, 12:18 PM   #61
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Current favorite is PL Premium.

I dunno. A lot. Maybe 8 full squiggles per foot? That's a technical term, of course.
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Old 01-24-2019, 12:24 PM   #62
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"That's a technical term, of course."

Like "toos"?

I'll add that if the 2X's aren't pretty flat against each other - thus allowing the adhesive to contact and spread out a bit, at least some of those squiggles aren't going to do much good.
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Old 01-24-2019, 12:50 PM   #63
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F26 is good, and Loctite PL Premium is very good.

I usually just make a continuous sepentine bead the length of the board.

Kinda looks like a radio signal, with the wave peaks about 6-8" apart.
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Old 01-24-2019, 02:42 PM   #64
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Actually, Dan, I'd want my pieces very flat against one another and why I'd consider some serious clamping before fastening a requirement.

And Kevin's radio signals analogy is just silly. You can't never hear that pookey make a sound 'cept maybe way later when it breaks.
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Old 01-24-2019, 04:32 PM   #65
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It certainly sounds better than:

Quote:
I dunno. A lot. Maybe 8 full squiggles per foot?
And you can hear PL coming out of the tube, every time there's an air bubble, it makes that splattering sound.
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Old 01-24-2019, 05:04 PM   #66
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One does not simply hear pookey waves with the naked ear. Just as with radio waves, a special receiver is required.
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Old 01-24-2019, 05:13 PM   #67
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I wouldn’t think I was using too much if I used a tube on each side.
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Old 01-24-2019, 10:25 PM   #68
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One of the small tubes? Maybe.

How long of a board are we talking about here?
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Old 01-24-2019, 10:49 PM   #69
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Ok, here we go. The cracked joist:
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and its sister:
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Looks like the forum shrunk the pictures some more. Also, the joist that ends at the header isn't actually shaped like that, that's just how the camera stitched the panorama together. The cracked side could use more light but you can see where the crack is and how full of stuff that whole side is. The sister is a different color and all that's there is some wire that runs through 2 bore holes. In the sister-side pic, you can see the cracked part hanging past the sister some.

I checked the shape of the joists (with a trowel, what else?). The cracked one is only cupped by ~1/16" on the beam-side of the crack but bulges out in the middle over toward the sill (right in the photo). The cracked area is all over the place. The sister is flat to within ~1/32".
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Old 01-25-2019, 07:13 AM   #70
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cx
Actually, Dan, I'd want my pieces very flat against one another and why I'd consider some serious clamping before fastening a requirement.
Agreed, cx, was only pointing out the if they don't condition.

Used a lot of PL when I sistered joists during my basement finishing job. The air bubbles are real.
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Old 01-26-2019, 12:52 PM   #71
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Picked up a 2x8x12 LVL. Heavier than sawn lumber, it's actually 1.75" thick instead of 1.5", but definitely straight. Haven't cut into it yet so I can still return it. It feels waxy, possibly some kind of weatherproofing film or just the adhesive. Is the pookey going to have any trouble sticking to this?

Same lumber yard has construction grade southern yellow pine 2x8x20s. Didn't think they even sold it around here. Also looks like I can get decent looking douglas fir 2x8x12s from home depot if I dig through the pile. I was planning on sistering the cracked joist with LVL and the rest with DF but now I'm considering doing both with SYP instead. I know I'm overthinking this but any advice on which would be more reliable?
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Old 01-27-2019, 07:13 AM   #72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul
I know I'm overthinking this...
Yeah, I was going to point that out but, given my own OCD-ness (I mean, you should see how many tile leveling thingys I've got on the floor right now!), doing so would have been all pot/kettle.

Reliable? 2X*'s have been used for decades with good results, and will likely be for decades to come. They're proven, inexpensive, and they just work.

Cull through the stack for the best ones. You don't need many, and they don't have to be absolutely perfect for your application.
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Old 01-27-2019, 10:26 AM   #73
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Dan: I mean which material is worth the trouble, douglas fir or yellow pine vs spruce. I'm not counting out sawn lumber.

AND I'm remembering why I thought my floor is solid enough as it is:
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The joists are 14" o.c., not 16" For a span of 11.5" and 14" SYP or Douglas fir in good condition, the deflect-o-lator gives a deflection of L/385. I'm actually a bit better than 14" because some of the joists are a bit closer and doubled up. I'd say I'm smarter than I thought but I did just rip out a plaster and metal lath ceiling for what turns out to be no good reason... Still going to strengthen everything.
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Old 01-28-2019, 07:16 AM   #74
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Paul, IMO, given your situation, any of the sawn lumber will be more than suitable for what you're attempting to accomplish which, if I recall, is to just beef up the joists to push them comfortably past L360 for your ceramic tiles.

Since you're not shooting for a particular L number well fastened 2X6's will accomplish your goal, too, I bet. But since you're going through the trouble, and space isn't an issue, use the 2X8's.
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Old 01-31-2019, 06:49 AM   #75
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Joist reinforcement is pending for this saturday. The floor should be stable enough but it'll still have a slight bow from the joist sag, maybe 1/8" or a bit over but it's pretty straight perpendicular to the joists. I can do my best to level it out with feather patch to lay 6x36 plank tile along the direction of the joists. Any thoughts on just smoothing the plywood out with the patch compound but leaving most of the bow and laying the planks perpendicular to the joists instead? This isn't to avoid cracking like I was asking before, this is to avoid lippage with the long planks.
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