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Unread 03-13-2019, 12:47 PM   #106
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Can't say what you might be watching, Thomas, nor what you mean by "fabric" in this context, but the installation of the CBU and the installation of a direct bonded waterproofing membrane are two separate and distinct operations. You install the CBU and finish the joints per the manufacturer's instructions, then you install the waterproofing membrane per that manufacturer's instructions.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 03-13-2019, 06:38 PM   #107
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I probably was confusing. The person on the video was using XFasten Fiberglass Waterproofing Anti-Fracture Membrane Fabric Tape.

I picked up ADFORS FibaTape a couple weeks back.

I guess my question is do use both? The person using the XFasten, it indeed looked more like fabric. I wasn't sure if he was putting it over and on top of what I purchased {or similiar} or by itself.

Another question came up. This maybe just a matter of opinion but I would like others in light of the fact I already picked up Hardi Backer.

The person on the video found fault with Hardi Backer. He shared Durock is a cement board, while Hardie is a fiber cement board; Durock is completely safe in water, but not waterproof, while Hardi Backer is not completely safe in water and is also not waterproof. Also Hardi Backer is extremely absorbent.

My only experience with Durock was in taking it out of this bathroom. It was hung with roofing nails. The nails came through it easy, it was brittle and broke easy.

In commenting about the video another guy said he had great success with Durock but with Hardie of the ones he tore out, he found the boards were like mushy like drywall.

So I would appreciate what others think. It is really just a matter of preference and preparation or is there really as much difference as the one person suggests above? It is not below me to return the Hardi to the store unused.
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Unread 03-13-2019, 07:19 PM   #108
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Thomas,

Who is this guy on line? The only folks to watch are videos by the product manufacturer and our buddy Sal Diblasi.
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Unread 03-13-2019, 07:51 PM   #109
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It was indeed Sal.
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Unread 03-13-2019, 08:48 PM   #110
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Do whatever Sal says.
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Unread 03-13-2019, 09:27 PM   #111
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Thomas, I don't know that the ADFORS FibaTape is an acceptable alkali-resistant tape for use with CBUs. They may make one I'm not familiar with.

The XFasten stuff I'm not familiar with, but if it's acceptable to the waterproofing manufacturer it's fine with me. I just don't know that it is.

While I know Sal Diblasi has some useful videos out there, I don't think I can go as far as Paul and say "Do whatever Sal says" without first I see the video.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 03-14-2019, 05:16 AM   #112
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Here is the video.

https://youtu.be/rsubb1HuLks
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Unread 03-14-2019, 05:19 AM   #113
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In the comments section is where he specifically shares what I posted. A good ways down in response to why he uses Durock.
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Unread 03-14-2019, 06:08 AM   #114
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Thomas, I forget now what water proofing method you intend to use. Regardless of which tile backer you opt to use you have options on how to finish the seams between those panels and your drywall.

Most common is mesh tape and thinset mortar. If you are using a sheet membrane over the panels then you cover those seams with that membrane (which kinda resembles fabric) using mortar. If you are slathering a liquid water proofing membrane on those panels you do the seams first with mesh tape and mortar, then apply the liquid membrane.

I've seen, or read - perhaps on this very site, that someone left a chunk of Hardie in a bucket of water for quite some time. While it did absorb water it didn't deteriorate. Indeed, I used a piece of it to make the table on my wet saw larger to support the roughly12X12 sheets of 2X2 shower floor tiles I was cutting. The Hardie absorbed but did not come apart, it's still in my garage.

I used Hardie in my basement shower. Though it doesn't get daily use anymore it has never been an issue. I recently had the shower valve trim plate off (which I never sealed to the tile with caulk) and the Hardie was bone dry and looked perfect.
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Unread 03-14-2019, 11:40 AM   #115
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Thank you for the clarification.

Barring voices that scream otherwise, it looks then I'll go with this plan Saturday:

Hardie Backer, mesh tape, modified thinset, dry overnight, Redgard rolled on one coat, dry second coat.

Someone suggested thinning first coat. (Thin with water and how much?)

Thank you all again for your advice and knowledge sharing!
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Unread 03-14-2019, 12:58 PM   #116
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Opinions vary but I usually go 50/50 on the prime coat....
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Unread 03-14-2019, 02:00 PM   #117
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Opinions shouldn't really be necessary as the manufacturer recommends a 4:1 water to RedGard mix as the priming coat for very absorptive surfaces.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 03-14-2019, 03:10 PM   #118
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Yes, for "very absorptive surfaces." For anything else, I'm probably closer to 1/3 mix....
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Unread 03-14-2019, 06:52 PM   #119
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Ready to go tonight with final check. I've two studs about 1/16 uneven. Only partially. I purchased 100 drywall shims earlier. Is it safe to put those directly behind CB? I mean they are cardboard.
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Unread 03-14-2019, 09:43 PM   #120
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If you're using a direct bonded waterproofing membrane on the inside surface of your wallboard, Thomas, the drywall shims should be quite safe behind the wallboard. Your studs are made of the same material, eh?

My opinion; worth price charged.
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