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Unread 02-08-2019, 07:16 AM   #61
ss3964spd
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When I did my basement shower, with a similar receptor, I did the following: thick poly on the studs as moisture barrier which hung over the receptor flange, then tile backer (in my case Hardie board) on the studs to within 1/8" of the top of the flange, Poly trimmed off but maintaining the flange overlap, then tile.

My shower tiles are 6X6's, but the bottom row were cut down to approx 5" high so I could get a clean uninterrupted curved cut on the two tiles (left and right) that make up the "legs". The bottom 1/2 - 3/4 inch of the bottom row is unsupported. I have 1/8" between the tile and the receptor. I used epoxy grout and color matched silicone caulk.

Has been like that for abut 12 years now.
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Unread 02-12-2019, 12:58 PM   #62
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I have the back shimmed out so the CB board will hang over the shower base flange and figured out how to shim the sides to make up the wall space being one inch larger than the shower base.

Is there any general rule for how much the shims should project the CB board over the flange of the shower? Just so it clears it? Or should there be any space between where it passes the flange? I guess I am thinking of any expansion though this base has a sand mix to go underneath it.

I realized I have to get the base and drain plumbing done before I finish shimming the sides. I would not be able to install it once the shims on the sides are done!
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Unread 02-12-2019, 01:01 PM   #63
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BTW, I can appreciate putting the CB on the studs above the flange. Shimming has made this much more challenging. My OCD tells me over the flange unfortunately.
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Unread 02-12-2019, 02:40 PM   #64
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Either way will work if done correctly, Thomas. I prefer lapped over the flange.
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Unread 02-13-2019, 09:33 AM   #65
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Believe me, I can relate to OCD.

I'd make the call based on how tall the flange is, and therefore how much of the bottom row of tile will be unsupported, and how tall that bottom row will be. Mine ended up with about 5/8th" of unsupported and about 4" of tile supported.

Do whichever your OCD drives you to do.
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Unread 02-16-2019, 06:25 PM   #66
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Ran the new drain in the crawlspace and up through the floor and shower pan. Felt like an accomplishment for a change!

This weekend I hope to put in the sand mix and set the shower pan. Then finish the shimming with new sister studs on the faucet side. -That side is a wall edge so the wall won't be affected by furring it out.

But as I saw in another video tonight. If I shim out the left side 1/4" or so, that means the drywall will be 1/4" inset from the rest of the CB board.

How is that handled? In the video, the guy was saying in those situations you just put the CB board above the tile flange and don't bother with shimming out.

Is that the going thought? Where there is a long wall straight across, you don't overhang the CB board over the flange because of then you would have an offset?
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Unread 02-17-2019, 08:20 AM   #67
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Same scenario discussed in this here thread: https://www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin...d.php?t=126973

The 1/4" difference is why I didn't shim mine out.
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Unread 02-17-2019, 10:39 AM   #68
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Never simple right?

I have the backside shimmed out as that was pretty straightforward.

The right side I can do because I have to bring the wall out another 1.5" inches and it already is accommodating since it is a corner.

The left side is the side that has the full wall.

So I wonder if shimming those two sides is ok and not the other single side?

I sort of had this problem on the first bathroom and this what my tile installer used. I think it what you suggested in one of the links?
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Unread 02-17-2019, 07:39 PM   #69
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Different Approach

After much thought, Youtube, and this forum, I decided tonight the 'juice isn't worth the squeeze" going with CB into drain area. With the left wall being an issue, and he other side being a trick, I am going to go with it 1/8" above the tiling flange.

For one thing, this shower base as a 1/4" flange, making it much thicker than the tub I did previously where I did run the CB into the drain area.

So I will put a plastic membrane behind it nailed to the studs. I saw one YouTube person also put a 6" flashing into the drain area with the plastic membrane going about half up the wall.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RFfmisZo4H8

He explains his logic at 4:22.

Going this way seems to be acceptable on this forum where the wall plain is an issue.
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Unread 02-18-2019, 06:49 AM   #70
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Hi Thomas. I didn't watch the whole thing but there's nothing wrong with using the flashing like he shows. I use it quite often. I don't agree with a few things he shows though, like troweling joint compound below the shower head height. There's no need for compound anywhere in the wet area.

He is right, most damage in showers tend to be in the lower 4 ft. But, if I'm going to apply a moisture barrier on the walls, I want to take it to the top (shower head height) so there's less chance of moisture getting behind the barrier.

A couple things about Hardiboard. He says it's non-porous, if it wasn't porous, why does he feel like it needs plastic behind it? Tape all the joints, not just a few where the gaps are the widest.
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Unread 02-18-2019, 07:31 AM   #71
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Like Davy said, Hardie is definitely porous. I'm using a scrap piece on the table of my wet saw to support the mosaics I've been cutting. It is completely soaked.
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Unread 02-18-2019, 07:10 PM   #72
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Thank you! I feel like I've been a little drip from a faucet with this project and I reflect on how much I appreciate everyone's assistance and patience

I had the day off and hence worked none-stop on the bathroom and have all the framing done minus one board that will go by the shower faucet. I even dry-fitted the shower base and it fits well as well as the drain!

I should be able to put the sand mix in this coming weekend for the shower base, and then begin the shower valve installation. Then cement board over the plastic 6ml waterproof membrane. When that is done, I'll feel like its down hill from there!

Thank you all for your patience!
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Unread 02-18-2019, 07:57 PM   #73
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LOL! Tonight while relaxing from my hard work, I watch another YouTube video.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e2yYse0cd_E

This one is by a guy named Sal. His video is really on wet shimming, but in the comments section he answered a person question about putting the CB board above the flange. Not only does he say not above the flange, but he references TCNA which I assume says it needs to be over the flange.

"First wet shimming is only for foam boards, can't use it for heavy cement board. The cement board is supposed to sit just above the tub, not above the flange. It is not a matter of preference, it is a matter of proper application. See 2018 TCNA Handbook page 230 Method B412-18. A gap of 1/4" is filled with a bead of sealant between the tub and the cement board."

I have to laugh. In the comments section further down with Sal, someone asks about the problem then of the difference in depth between the cement board and existing drywall that continues through out the bathroom.

Sal just says "Well there is the problem, proper planning is essential to getting everything to work."

Of course that is the very problem why I changed course because I have a long wall that would be out of plain.

Still there are plenty of posts and site which advocate above being acceptable and common.

https://diy.stackexchange.com/questi...the-tub-flange
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Unread 02-18-2019, 09:42 PM   #74
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Sal has some of the best videos out there. You can pretty much take his advice to the bank.
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Unread 02-18-2019, 10:25 PM   #75
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The TCNA method he references does show the CBU lapping over the tiling flange, Thomas, but that does not preclude stopping the CBU above the flange and using a direct bonded waterproofing membrane to tie the CBU to the tiling flange or using a moisture barrier behind the CBU and having it lap over the tiling flange.

I agree that the CBU lapping over the flange is the better method, but stopping above the flange is perfectly acceptable also if done correctly.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Thomas
...I changed course because I have a long wall that would be out of plain.
Even if you get that wall in plane, it might still be quite plain, or out of plain, don'tcha know.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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