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Old 01-12-2019, 07:53 PM   #46
Themus
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Sorry, what I am referring to is I have currently with the shower base just sitting in the designated area, a half-inch space left, back and right. So I am assuming in order to get the CBU over the shower base flange, I'll need to shim the studs a half-inch plus may be an 1/8 to account for the width of the flange. That should put the CBU inside the shower base.

{My wife suggested I push the shower base to one side.}

My last part of the question had to do with assuming the above is the correct procedure, my walls adjourning the shower base will be a half-inch off. Will the corner tile piece take care of that offset?

Does that clarify what I am asking?
Thank you.
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Old 01-12-2019, 09:19 PM   #47
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Having the CBU fall inside the receptor's tiling flange is a good thing if it's reasonable for you to do. While there are mud cap-type tiles that could feasibly be used at the outside edge of your shower walls to cover the edge of your CBU, that would not account for the walls above the tile area unless you plan tile all the way to the ceiling. And those mud cap pieces come in a rather limited selection of tile finishes and colors.

If you move the receptor to one side to accommodate the wallboard outside the shower on that side, you'll need to come up with a "feature" of some sort to deal with the other side. There are lots of creative ways to do that, depending upon your current bathroom decor and taste.

I like to see the waterproofing membrane and tile extend out past the front of such receptors with a "tub leg" to the floor just like when tiling a tub/shower.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Old 01-21-2019, 09:22 AM   #48
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Getting ready to shim the studs {of course not even} and I was wondering if using dry treated 2 x 4 cut to the right depth would be better than just using a plain shim from a cut 2 x4. Would the fact it being treated offer any advantage?

Actually have been busy on the bathroom project, plumbing for the toilet, drywall where the vanity will go, putting up drywall where the old wall used to exist, and constructing a new doorway.

Lol! But I need to man-up now and get going on this shower portion. I've stalled long enough. :-)
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Old 01-21-2019, 09:37 AM   #49
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Thomas, when shimming studs I like to use rips of plywood rather than any sawn wood to prevent the shims from splitting so much.

But sistering straight lumber in there to plumb and flatten your walls while extending the face of the studs is always the better option if you can do that. I would recommend you use good kiln-dried lumber and not any sort of treated wood for such sistering.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Old 01-22-2019, 08:53 AM   #50
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Depending on how far out they are, Thomas, perhaps you can use drywall shims instead. They are 1.5 wide, about 4' long, and 1/16" thick.

I used a whole mess of them to straighten out my walls.
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Old 01-22-2019, 08:58 AM   #51
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Thank you. Looking at the picture I took, here is what I think would work.

Shim out the stud between the vents about a 1/2" or 3/4" as I cannot "sister" that one. Then sister the other studs along that wall to meet the 1/2" or 3/4" shim.

Along the shower base flange, mark the shim and sister studs and cut so that the shower base flange will align up flush with the shim and sister studs. That would allow the CBU board to ride into the shower base nicely.

The wall on the right is going to need to be "shimmed" out an inch.

The back wall could use sister studs and I will need to add a few more both to account for the CBU board and shower door.

Plywood shims makes sense. Never thought about how those screws for the CBU board would splitting simple shims.

Do I sound like I am on the right track with the above 'plan?'
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Old 01-28-2019, 07:29 PM   #52
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Preparation is the key to everything. That is what I keep reminding myself! Still working on the studs getting them right. With the drywall off one side, I found I had one spot an inch out of line!

That is fixed and the left side is coming into shape, finally.

I started thinking about the plywood shims mentioned above. Those shims would of course fall into 1/4", 3/8" 1/2", and 3/4" etc. Ripping plywood on a table saw.

So generally with those in mind we are not looking at 'micro' shimming like a 1/16 or 1/8. I see they sell 'cardboard' shims for that purpose.

Do I have these observations right? Using plywood shims will make it further out from the wall than 'cardboard' shims. Not a problem, I just had to think outside the box when thinking about it.
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Old 01-28-2019, 07:31 PM   #53
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Yes, you have it right.
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Old 02-05-2019, 11:50 AM   #54
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I have the new door framed and drywall on the outside wall of the bathroom wall. So we have two rooms again!

I am really wondering if the "juice is worth the squeeze" by making the CB hang over the shower flange. The nuisance being I have to shim the studs with let's say 3/4" plywood strips. Easy to grasp and mostly do.

But to notch out those plywood shims just right to where the shower pan flange ends, and have the rest hang over an 1/8" or so, so the CB hangs over just inside, that seems pretty cumbersome.

Tell me it isn't as complicated as I am making it.
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Old 02-05-2019, 12:34 PM   #55
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Not sure I understand the description, Thomas, but if you want to stop your wallboard above the receptor tiling flange, you'll need a sheet-type direct bonded waterproofing membrane to bond both to the flange and your wallboard. Your wallboard face absolutely must be horizontally proud of your receptor's tiling flange, though.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Old 02-05-2019, 07:27 PM   #56
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Let me ask for the proper method another way.

I imagine normally you put the shower base against the studs, and then put shims against the studs so that the CB board's back side lines up just inside the shower base flange, an 1/4 or so above the edge where you caulk.

So if the flange was an 1/8in, you would shim up and down the studs 3/16 in.

If I have that right, then in my case lets say I have to shim the studs out, up and down, first 3/4in to get the shower base to fit the opening.

Do I then follow that up with, as in the flange case above being 1/8in, with shims starting above the flange 3/16?"

In other words, I place shims on top of shims?

Simply: If you had to shim out the wall studs to adjust for the smaller size of the original tub, the new shower base being slightly shorter in length, how would you do it?

The difference is the shower base is 1" shorter length wise than the opening, and needs to move away from the back wall at least 1/2". The back wall, as pictured, has duct work which extends slightly beyond the studs.
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Old 02-05-2019, 07:43 PM   #57
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Dry shimming may work, but have you heard of wet shimming?
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Old 02-06-2019, 07:55 PM   #58
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Yes I heard of wet shims and watched it being used with other type of water membrane materials other than Hardi board.

I did have a duh moment about 15 minutes ago.

I can run 1/2" plywood homemade shims up to the top of the shower base flange {its about 4 inches}; and then start new home made plywood shims of 3/4" from there to the top of the wall.

The shower flange is exactly a 1/4" wide all around three sides. So that should put the CB right over the flange just about right.

If there is any small difference, my wife cut roofing felt into strips that I can staple to the studs prior to the plywood shims or vice a versa.

I think this would work. Anything I am not seeing with this plan of attack?
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Old 02-07-2019, 06:59 PM   #59
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Mock-up of Laying out Shims, CB, and Tile

Tonight I laid out what I think is the proper way to do this task. Do you agree?

I have numbered some plywood representing shims I will create, the drywall represents the CB board hanging over and into the shower base, and a sample piece of tile just above the base of the shower base.

The first piece of plywood is where I need to shim on three sides to get it framed in; the second piece represents the shims so that the CB board will hang over the shower base flange. The drywall piece represents the CB board in the picture. Then the actual tile piece shows how it laid on top of the CB board, but has a gap of 1/4 from the bottom of the shower base.

If this looks like a winner please confirm. If not, what do I need to change. I plan to tackle all this this weekend.
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Old 02-07-2019, 08:15 PM   #60
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That would work.

There would need to be some waterproofing between the CBU and tile unless, of course, you put a moisture barrier behind the CBU.

And I'd wanna use some construction adhesive between all those wood pieces.

And I'd make the tile/receptor gap more like 1/8th" were it mine.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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