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Unread 07-28-2018, 09:48 AM   #31
MickM
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I have a question on orientation of the 3/4 T&G subfloor plywood relative to the joists.

I saw a post on this forum which states that the top layer grain on the plywood should be perpendicular to the joists. Is that the recommendation?

If that's the case, do I need blocking on the long edge of the plywood as it crosses between the joists?

Thanks - your advice always appreciated!
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Unread 07-28-2018, 09:54 AM   #32
wwhitney
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1) Yes.

2) No, that is the purpose of the tongue and groove. If you are doing a repair, and a long edge will not be engaging the adjoining piece of subfloor, then you do need to provide blocking for it, or otherwise attach it to the adjoining piece of subfloor.

Cheers, Wayne
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Unread 07-28-2018, 01:12 PM   #33
MickM
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Thanks for quick reply Wayne.

I was reading a post from 11/23/17 were you helping dkeilholz with an analysis of his floor loading. It occurred to me that I had not given this much thought because I planned to use the same tub in the remodeled bathroom as was there previously - also a Kohler Villager cast iron. After reading your analysis, however, I decided to to use an acrylic Kohler tub weighing 73 lbs vs the Villager at 316 lbs. Unfortunately this tub holds more water which drives up the weight.

Could you give me your opinion on the suitability of my subfloor structure for a porcelain tile application? I planned on tiling over Durock in the tub alcove area. Alcove area = 60" x 30"

Following your model...

Dead Load
Tub = 73 lbs
1/2 Durock = 168 lbs (7' height)
Tile = 350 lbs

Live Load
Water = 476 lbs (57 gal)
Person = 230 lbs

I have attached a diagram which shows the joists. The tub is situated against an outside wall, so far from the middle of the joist span. Joist span is 14' Hem Fir.

Any help appreciated - Thanks.
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Unread 07-28-2018, 02:06 PM   #34
Gozo
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You have to remember the amount of water the tub holds is rated full to the top. I’ve never filled the tub that far. (Actually, yes I did - when installing it to get the max flex before nailing in the flange). Plus when you get in, you take up some of that volume and you weight less than the water. I’d use a figure of the water weight 3/4 full to be a high max estimate of the live water + person load. Probably less with you and the water than the cast iron tub alone.
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Unread 07-28-2018, 04:04 PM   #35
MickM
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Thanks Jeff. I was wondering about the displacement when a person is in the tub. Makes sense to assume less water. Derating by .75 gives 357 lbs of water for a live load of 357 (water)+230 (person) = 660 lbs.

There is a savings of 243 lbs for the dead load using acrylic over cast iron, but the live load is still less with the cast iron because its capacity was only 33 gal - quite a bit less than the acrylic.
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Unread 08-04-2018, 04:21 PM   #36
MickM
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I am trying to decide between a cast iron or acrylic tub in this bathroom.
My goal is to be as conservative as possible with regards to the loading on the subfloor structure.

The cast iron tub is 316 lbs and the acrylic tub is 73 lbs, So the dead load is much better with the acrylic tub.

On the other hand, the cast iron tub has a max capacity of 33 gal vs the acrylic tub at 57 gal, so the live load is higher with the acrylic tub because of the water weight.

I don't know what matters more to the integrity of the tile installation (both in the alcove and on the floor) - dead load vs live load.

Any opinions on this greatly appreciated. Thanks.
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Unread 05-07-2019, 04:55 PM   #37
MickM
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Been a while since my last post here..project was on hold, but I am picking it up again.

Hopefully I can get some advice on the use of a floor leveler. Even though I tried to get the subfloor as level as possible, there are a couple of areas that are out - probably 1/4' at most.

I was thinking of using a self leveler in any area that was low, but now I am thinking it would be easier to just do the whole floor (64 sq ft). I have 1/4" durock that I planned to put over the subfloor, but I see that the LevelQuick product calls for a metal mesh instead of an additional backer board. I am not sure about using the mesh instead of the durock. The durock seems like the more common method.

Any comments would be appreciated. Thanks.
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